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Do you have a vacuum gauge? (Or a Mity Vac? You can use it for a gauge. )
Intake valves closing late would explain no power, and no boost for the brakes. Also, without vacuum, the secondaries are going to have a hard time coming off. But it's just an idea. I notice your Holley has the quick change lid on the secondary spring. There's an o-ring in that cap along with the diaphragm. I have a couple of 4V carbs. But I think the carburetion is a symptom, not the cause.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Yeah, I have a vacuum gauge, but I agree, the carbs are showing symptoms; 2 carbs with the same symptoms, something else is wrong. At least we know what it's NOT, I guess. Last night, I sent those 2 videos to my machinist/engine-builder-guy who did all of that work on it in 2005, we'll see what he says.... |
Copied from FTE....
OK, here is where I'm at today... It starts but doesn't run well below 2500-ish RPM. See videos 1 & 2. I wasn't able to actually see my 0/10/20° BDC markings on the balancer when I tried to check the timing, that really concerned me... so I did the crank pulley with a breaker bar stuff, I can't see there being any way in h3ll that chain could have slipped. This engine was built in 2005 (maybe 06) and the entire truck has easily got less than 10K miles on it since then, it's mostly a firewood-getter in the wintertime. Plugs all look the same; I dropped #8 on the ground, but its gap seems to be unaffected. Everybody's getting a lot of gas, I can see that. Guess I'll do a compression check at this point, it's what I'm set up for.... Pictures.... Plugs 1-4: Plugs 5-8: The morning attempts to start it & take measurements, it didn't go any better than it has in the past... Video 1: https://youtu.be/aaz3ujVm76s <nabble_embed>https://youtu.be/aaz3ujVm76s</nabble_embed> Video 2: https://youtu.be/Kv4uAnvPlUw <nabble_embed>https://youtu.be/Kv4uAnvPlUw</nabble_embed> YouTube says it's still processing the HD versions, but I expect it to be completed shortly (within the hour, I'd hope) but it probably doesn't really matter.... Gonna post the same update to Gary's site..... this is trying HTML format in an attempt to get the embedded youtube clips.... |
Begin here, CC to FTE...
Prepping to do a compression test and I noticed... I'm back to fuel supply, the filter is empty.... *sigh* I'm still doing the compression test first, one thing at a time... |
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Yeah, it sounds like you are way short of fuel. But that doesn't explain the lack of vacuum showing. However, you obviously have some vacuum or it wouldn't run at all, so maybe the vacuum line didn't get connected after the carb swap? Or got knocked off?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ctubutis
Never mind, the fuel filter is just full.
~~ OK, results of the compression test: 1= 155 2= 155 3= 100 w/oil = 150 4= 150 5= 165 6= 165 7= 100 w/oil = 125 8= 155 Not real encouraging. ~~ I'm gonna put it back together, I guess, as I'm not real sure where to go from here... what does everybody think? It's current condition, installation is the exact reverse of removal: |
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Obviously you have a problem with 3 and 7. BUT, that doesn't explain the way it is running. I've seen engines with far lower compression run nicely at idle and rev in neutral like there was nothing wrong.
And if the fuel filter is full and you have the same symptoms with two different carbs then it probably isn't the carb. But it could be bad gas. Do you have a way to run it off new gas in a gas can? Or it could be ignition, or the lack thereof. Have you checked for a strong blue or white spark? And did you ever figure out what the timing is doing? Last, once you figure out why it won't run at the moment, you might want to do a leak-down test to figure out what is wrong with 3 & 7. However, given how much the compression came up with oil I suspect that you'll find the rings are leaking into the sump.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Yeah, I've also seen (and had) engines with "low" compression run fine.
The timing light thing freaks me out a bit I can verify with a different timing light, but I doubt it's the problem. But this brings up a good point, that dang DuraSpark box... I *think* I have another one around here someplace, I'll have to look. It's cloudy & rainy again, so I'm in the garage working on the Taurus... |
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I had a brand new DS-II module go bad when I fired Big Blue's engine up for the first time last year. Got it to run for the needed 20+ minutes to break in the cam, but it wouldn't rev past a certain RPM so I just babied it. It ran, but horribly, so once it was broken in I swapped out the box and the engine ran fine.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Found my spare DS2 box (in a plastic Truck Box behind the seat, contains spares & tools & such) so I'll go back to the truck tomorrow, I guess.
The other component is that distributor PIP thing. But the DS2 is easiest to swap out. Matthewq4b & Ken Blythen on FTE are saying basically the same thing, go after the ignition. Tomorrow; the rest of tonight is SHO air conditioning compressor. :) |
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I've never had a failing module just continue to run like that, but I certainly haven't seen everything.
It would be wonderful if it was just that simple. I have had a bad coil refuse to rev. Did those two plugs look covered in oil? Still no explanation why #5 terminal is covered in corrosion or arcing?
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Yeah, I have no explanation for that #5 cylinder arcing...
All the plugs look identical, too, I guess that's good. ~~ Man, the Taurus SHO engine is DEFINITELY of Japanese design & manufacture, I can tell just by the tolerances in all these parts! I'm used to stuff being fairly loosey-goosey, but this thing is precision all the way, even with alternator mounting... different beast altogether. |
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Well it means the two low pressure cylinders aren't passing a bunch of oil by the rings.
So, that is good news. Those Yamaha engines ushered in a new era of manufacturing tolerances for an American manufacturer. But it was also the beginning of the end for service access in an engine bay!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Jim, I actually think his is more accessible than my 3.8L was. It has to come out from below due to the 3.8L being a 90° block and the radiator has to come out first.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
OK, this is interesting, I don't understand, please explain...
Testing out the ignition, measuring out the coil... or trying to.... I get 1.4Ω across the 2 brass terminals, that's within spec. Testing across either to the high-tension tower nets me ZERO ohms, how is that? Across the brass: I don't understand how the thing can still be working? I'm gonna go searcharound for a spare coil, I MAY have one... but I don't think I've ever seen a failed coil in my life... |
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Yipes! You apparently have a spark inside the coil from the secondary to ground, which should be the case. So part of your energy is being consumed in the coil itself and only some left over for the plugs.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I should have said that I've seen several failed coils. But all of those had a failure in the primary, not the secondary. That's a new one for me.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I'm seeing myself back at the auto parts today; O'Reilly's, used to be Checker Auto. They *used to have* the capability of testing the DS2 boxes, but the kid who just answered the phone when I asked said "not anymore."
Well, doing those kinds of tests would have been for verification only, they both still worked last time I checked (although *something* has been acting up recently.... Gonna go search my basement for a coil, I *might* have one..... |
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Good luck, but a new coil can't be that expensive and would be one more thing that you are pretty sure isn't bad.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ctubutis
Changed the scale on my meter (20K scale) it now reads 9.2 between center output and either brass terminal.
This is between 7,500 & 11,000 and is OK, then, correct? Sorry for the errant readings, but something was telling me I'm not doing that test properly..... |
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