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All of the items came in for us to finish up Brutus's cooling system. All that is left is the thermostat housing, thermostat, heater hose elbow and sensor. I have a question though. The elbow, the sensor, and there is a what looks like a set screw on the housing. Do i put rtv on these threads? teflon tape? or nothing?
Nick and George
1986 1/2 F150 XLT Lariat 4X2 300 Six - C6 - 3:08 in a 8.8 - Fully Loaded - 8 Foot Box Owned since new |
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This post was updated on .
I like anerobic 'Pipe Sealant with Teflon' (PST)
There's no stringy tape to possibly come free. (this is much more important in an oil gallery than a coolant system) There's no chance that you don't get a metal to metal ground for your sensor. And there's no chance of mistakenly using **acetioxy** chemistry that is going to corrode the brass sensor over time, creating a resistance that gets higher in the long term. And, if your thermostat doesn't have a little jiggly brass nub in the flange, I'd suggest drilling a miniscule hole so air can escape as you're filling the system. It will never be enough to really affect the function of the thermostat, but it will ensure a thermostat will always be submerged it the coolant it's meant to regulate.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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I second Jim's recommendations. I'm using Loctite 56747 PST 50ml High Temperature Thread Sealant for Stainless Steel Fittings. It is expensive, but really works. I've had no leaks and no seizing of the bolts.
And, I drilled a small hole in my thermostat. But, maybe mine wasn't big enough as it didn't seem to help with the initial fill as I still had some air in the system. However, it sure didn't hurt.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Gary,
I'm not sure of where the radiator cap is in relation to the thermostat housing on a 300. I know on our trucks it still takes some circulation to purge the heater core and upper radiator hose once you button the water neck back up. But all the V-8's have a bypass, where I think the water pump is dead headed in a 300.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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You are right, the only bypass on the 300 is through the heater core.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Gary, Jim, there is an internal bypass on the 300, it is a hole in the block that connects the front of the head to the water pump where the heater return hose goes in. I thought I remembered one being there from working on a few of them. Due to it's location, much like the V8s, it doesn't really help purging the system. The "setscrew" on the thermostat housing might be a bleeder screw to aid in purging.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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I wasn't aware of that, Bill. Thanks!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
The set screw is for purging if i remember correctly. I think i'm going to take Jim and Gary's advice and order the high temp sealant, i checked at autozone and they dont have any. I can get some from amazon in a few days.
Nick and George
1986 1/2 F150 XLT Lariat 4X2 300 Six - C6 - 3:08 in a 8.8 - Fully Loaded - 8 Foot Box Owned since new |
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