The Camano Experience

[Rembrant]

That wiper motor looks wicked!

I'm anxious to start cleaning up items like this to make my engine bay prettier. Well done.

[Gary Lewis]

Wow!  That wiper motor is pretty!  I may have to try that.  

On the writeup on FTE, do you have the link?  Do we have that link on here somewhere?  Was that the one that Jonathan or Dave did?  (I forget.)

Yes, it is a bear to do that on the vehicle.  I've done it.  But don't want to do it again.

[grumpin]

Nice!

[kramttocs]

Rembrant wrote

That wiper motor looks wicked!
I'm anxious to start cleaning up items like this to make my engine bay prettier. Well done.

Thanks. Gloss black with your blue would be a great looking combo!

Gary Lewis wrote

Wow!  That wiper motor is pretty!  I may have to try that.  

Doing the wiper motor was more of a 'is it possible' venture and some curiosity to see how it all went together. Based on the end result though I would recommend it since you are setup for coating already.
There weren't any real gotcha's - I used some stainless button head (3mm) bolts and nyloc nuts to hold the plug on since they have to be low profile on the backside to prevent hitting against the plastic gears. Then it was a 4mm button head for the ground wire (hidden under the motor cover). There are a couple clips that hold the magnets in place inside the cover and to get them snapped back in, I just used some long needle nose pliers and pried outwards.

Now fair warning that the same can not be done on the factory blower motor
It apparently wasn't made to be easily disassembled with the plans of reassembly and the magnets are glued on (very well...) which prevents it from surviving the oven. So stick to just painting that one. Aftermarket ones maybe?

Gary Lewis wrote

On the writeup on FTE, do you have the link?  Do we have that link on here somewhere?  Was that the one that Jonathan or Dave did?  (I forget.)

Yes, it is a bear to do that on the vehicle.  I've done it.  But don't want to do it again.

Looks like Karl did this one - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1486377-how-to-repair-the-ac-vent-door-hinge.html

He does a really good job of documenting the process.

[kramttocs]

At this point I am mainly just waiting to get the truck back from the body/paint shop.

My XMat came in (picked up 2 low profile boxes and 2 light boxes) that should be enough to cover all I am planning on doing.

Also my Ultramat dash cover came in. For what it is, I am happy with it. It forms fits really well. I decided to go with this version since a lot of reviewers said they didn't need to use the velcro. I believe it after seeing it and sitting it on the dash pad although the slits for the defrost look like they will cause the cover to lift up or float when defrost is used if the velcro isn't used. Will have to test that later...much later. I plan on only using this for daily driving and removing for shows so hoping I don't have to use the velcro.




This week I did finish up cleaning and refinishing the engine side hvac box. I removed the fresh air door as the foam was starting to deteriorate at the bottom and rust was forming. The one from Camano had a rust hole in the bottom of it so I pulled the door from a spare unit, scraped all the foam off, powdercoated it and all of the hardware (rod, washers, retaining washer) and reapplied the same camper foam I used for the blend door.

This is the junk door from Camano and the spare rod (that I also coated) just for reference:

[Gary Lewis]

Don't know much about the Ultramat.  Will have to check that out to see what it is.  But Vernon sent Big Blue with one of the Coverlay covers, so I'm pretty sure I'll use that.

Powder coated HVAC parts?  INTERNAL HVAC parts.  Wow, there's no competition.  

Seriously though, that truck is going to last forever!

[kramttocs]

I'll have to check out the Coverlay on the 21st - I've always wondered how they fit and look.

As bad as rust is around here and since this will be a rain or shine daily driver I figure anything I can do to delay it is time well spent.

This was mentioned over on FTE by Dave I believe but Detroit Muscle makes a very nice engine side hvac to firewall gasket. Mine came in today and while a gasket isn't all that exciting, the quality is excellent. Nice and thick.

[FuzzFace2]

It was most likely me as I used them for a gasket kit for my 70 AMC Javelin heater box.
If you go to their and don't see listed what you are looking for give them a call as they may have it but not listed.

Also if they don't have that part and you have one to make a copy from they can. I also heard if you can send them the part(s) they can work with them to make the needed gaskets.
This way they would then have that part and you may get a discount for helping.
Dave ----

[kramttocs]

Started taking the rear bumper apart today. Removed the arms for prep and coating.
Anyone ever heard of someone grinding off the rivets for the step/tongue hole center piece?
Planning to start on that tonight. Avoiding too much heat is the only consideration I can think of.

Any color suggestions for it? Been doing gloss black for everything underneath but not sure I want this part to stand out and shine. The receiver hitch is a textured flat black coating.

Debated having the body shop paint it the body accent color but not sure about that either. Main reason being the paint holding up to boots.

[Gary Lewis]

No, I've not heard of anyone taking those rivets out, but I can understand why you'd want to do it.

What I don't understand is the question about what color to paint "the step/tongue hole center piece" and the comment about boots.  I've not looked at Big Blue's hitch right there lately, but I don't think I ever step there.

Powder coat it?

[kramttocs]

Not sure what it's technically called but it's the step with the hole that you'd drop a pin in for a hay wagon tongue or bolt a ball to. No doubt there is a super simple name that's alluding me.

Yeah, the original plan was to powder coat it and I've decided to go with the textured black like the receiver hitch and kind of like the black bumper trim pieces.
I was just thinking that it might look neat in body color but that wouldn't last on a driver like this.

It came apart with little fuss so going to straighten it tomorrow (slight bend near the hole) and drop it off at the shop - too long for my oven.

[Gary Lewis]

No idea what that's called, but I figured out why I never step there - it's got a ball bolted on it so there's not much room to put a big foot like mine.

Anyway, I think black will be a good color.

[kramttocs]

Hey Gary - I was going to post this in the Big Blue project thread but didn't find it so will just throw it here since it does apply to Camano also.
...

While in your shop, David was showing me the Medium Duty truck radio bezel that you are planning to use with the row of switches at the top (great idea).
Not sure what your trailer controller plans are but I have never been a fan of the trailer controllers down below the dash despite all our farm trucks having that as the norm. Just a couple days ago I stumbled upon the Reese 8508700. There is also a Redarc version but I like the functionality of the Reese better from what I've compared. This unit has a remote dial and led indicator that allows you to mount it in the dash.

For Camano I am going to 3D print something that looks very similar to the dealer installed a/c controls located in the dash cubby to house this dial and my GVOD toggle but when David showed me that bezel I thought it would be a good place for the trailer controls also. Just an idea.

[Gary Lewis]

Scott - I hadn't seen that controller, shown below.  But that would be a good place to mount the dial and LED.  Good idea.

[Danny G]

kramttocs wrote

Don't sell yourself short. It's impossible to read through any of the other project threads and not pick up great ideas and methods that one will use later. I've been bookmarking threads for future restoration reference for years. This site is a veritable schmorgasboard - can't say that and not think of Charlotte's Web 

I can clearly remember reading a post where you told someone to bring something to last years show and you'd coat it. This was before I'd ever considered buying a gun so I am more than happy to blame you!

Like I am doing now lol... Since you are tearing it all down and detailing everything. One of the things I have been trying to wrap my head around is the climate control panel.

My metal sliders are rusty, and I think it would be cool to be able to pull that faceplate and either get the red/blue restored or come up with something custom.

[kramttocs]

I like how you think!
I was actually looking over that control unit a couple weeks ago hoping to find a way to remove the levers and coat them as mine are rusty also.
Nothing obvious stood out at the time but I recall Chris over at FTE mentioning something about drilling out the melted pins to hold the face halves together and restoring the color so I tabled my progress on it until I could look up that thread.
I seem to recall something about there being pieces of color plastic sheets in there to filter the color but could be mistaken.

I don't think any powder coating will be an option on the levers since they are likely integral to the switches but just some black spray paint will look good and be an improvement.

When I get back from Tulsa I'll look up that thread and play around with a really faded spare unit I have.
 If you do anything before then on it, definitely let me know.

[Danny G]

it looks like you can get it off easily enough. It's the how to restore the decal part that is going to be hard.

I wish i had a spare to mess with. I think you could probably dissemble and remove the levers. I imagine they are just a pin and spring set up. But you could also end up damaging the unit and making it non functional. If I remember correctly these guys run on vacuum not electrical output.

[kramttocs]

Yep, the 86 are primarily vacuum. That would be great if the levers do come out (and go back in  ). I'll take a bunch of photos when I tear into my spare.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm pretty sure you can remove the levers on the vacuum part.  I took one apart, cleaned it, lubed it, and put it back together - and it worked.  I think I drilled and tapped the plastic that I'd ground off for some small machine screw like a 4-40 or 6-32.

[kramttocs]

Stopped by the paint shop today. Looking like a truck again.