Stripped oil filter stud

[Bootybandit]

Is it possible to strip the oil filter stud?  I changed my oil and left the old filter seal on by accident and had a double seal.  Like an idiot I over tightened and realized my mistake when oil was pouring on the driveway at an alarming rate.  So got another filter and now neither filter will screw back on.  Can I change the stud?  I found some online but they don't look like mine.

[viven44]

Can you send a pic of where the filter goes ? I cannot remember if the 351W has an oil filter adapter or if the filter is installed straight to the block.

Either way, you can repair this without too much difficulty... rest assured

[Bootybandit]

[Bootybandit]

Ive had a long day.  I'll check this in the morning thanks for the help.

[viven44]

Your filter is installed straight to the block with an adapter.. no 90 degree adapters like the 460....

This adapter below will work... The only thing I am not sure about is how to remove the old adapter that's installed to the block.. those things can be boogers to get off after all these years.. more experienced inputs/suggestions needed

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8W68U/?coliid=I2OW35OB5ZNUY2&colid=3IGQF00LDI4AO&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_lstpd_H1WV6CEYDQK0EYSNKA28

[ArdWrknTrk]

Should be a hex inside, it's a '65 Mustang part number available for under $6 when I last checked, but it's been a while.

 twice as much now!

https://www.cjponyparts.com/oil-filter-threaded-insert-mustang-5-0l-1982-1995/p/HW2387/?year=1984&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8MG1BhCoARIsAHxSiQnpU-OQSpVOgxiA2MsluQxxBQ6__3BSJpIBoWq_LsGNL4CF5GoVEg0aAhQzEALw_wcB

Yeah, yeah I know what it says about fitment, but it fits 429/460 as well.

[Bootybandit]

Doesn't seem to be a hex in there.  It feels like its threaded and looks threaded too.  Im not sure how to remove the old one.

[Gary Lewis]

I've seen them w/o the hex.  In that case I used vise grips to get it out, which is scary 'cause you know you are going to mess the threads up big time when you put the vise grips on there.  But it came out and I put a new one in w/o a problem.

[viven44]

Yep that’s what I was afraid of. I didn’t see the hex in his pics but was hoping it was buried maybe halfway inside or all the way inside… like on the one Jim sent the Hex is all the way on the backside inside the block.

Ford must have designed them to be removed reasonable easily.. or that’s the hope at least but sometimes they surprise us !

And Hex are about the worst in my experience when it comes to stripping… so I would go real easy if that’s the case

[viven44]

Oh and if vice grips are used, maybe a good idea to install a socket or something cylindrical inside so the walls don’t collapse and break possibly

[Bootybandit]

This sounds really scary.  

[viven44]

Its going to come off. Its been exposed to oil all its life so you don't need to worry about it being siezed... I think the thing about vice grip is that it is a point of no return... so I agree it is scary but you have to do what you have to sometimes! The good news is there is a lot of working area. Worst case .... That flange on the back. If you can find a way to groove it and fit a screwdriver, you can tap it and get it to start moving...

If you can establish whether there is an hex deep inside or not that would be helpful as a next step...

[Bootybandit]

I can't even get to it.  I'll have to remove the headers and the powersteering pump.  If I could just get the filter started or a nut I could fix those first 2 threads I don't even understand how the first few threads got crossed considering there is nothing touching them once the filter is tightened.

[Gary Lewis]

Do you have a thread file?  Determine the pitch of the thread and use the proper side of the file to clean up the threads on the end.  But I'd stuff the inside with a paper towel to ensure filings don't get in.  And clean up the outside really, really well when you are done.

[Bootybandit]

This is what Ye Old Internet says.  "The oil filter threads for a 1985 Ford 351W Windsor engine are 1-1/16"-12 in the block and 3/4"-16 for the filter"  To answer your question No I dont have one but will after a few minutes.

[Gary Lewis]

The filter thread pitch is what you need to know.  Not the diameter.  You pick the side of the file with the right pitch, and it is 16 tpi.  This is taken from an FL1A:

[Bootybandit]

Im working on it now thanx for the input.

[Bootybandit]

Didn't have enough room for the thread file But.. I love to buy new tools and I will use this often I didn't have one.  Ended up buying a 3/4 -16 die and twisting it on with much anxiety as I didn't have a large enough socket.  Again as always thank you guys for all the input.

[mat in tn]

it's certainly possible to damage the threads yet I would expect the filter to be the part to get damaged first. it's possible that the filters threads are clogged into the adapter's threads. did you inspect the removed filters threads? try to get as good of a picture from the side if you can. yes, unfortunately you will probably need to open a pathway by removing the power steering pump and bracket. actually, it may save you more time and stress that way. I do not see a hex and on those I have used larger pipe extractors. same as screw extractors just bigger. tapered and reverse spiral. in fact, that's what I would try first in my shop, since I have them and access is no different than the filter itself.

[Bootybandit]

I fixed and now have a new filter on it.  I remember now why this happened.  I was also installing that new oil pressure gauge and remember hitting the stud while the filter was out so I must have nicked it at the tip. Thanx again.