Stripped Water Pump Bolt

[AmericanSavage]

Gary Lewis wrote

I think replacing it is the right thing to do.  And I like Cloyes, although I wouldn't mind an Eddie or Comp.

Thanks Gary!  Ordered the Edel.  

Today will try to turn the enging over to line up the sprockets—never done this before, so not sure how difficult this is to get the dots aligned.

Cheers to you!

[Gary Lewis]

As long as you don’t turn the engine after you align the dots it doesn’t matter if it is on #1 TDC or not. Align the dots, and when you have the new chain and sprockets swap w/o turning the engine.

[AmericanSavage]

Gary Lewis wrote

As long as you don’t turn the engine after you align the dots it doesn’t matter if it is on #1 TDC or not. Align the dots, and when you have the new chain and sprockets swap w/o turning the engine.

Here is about as close as i can get, but I am not sure as close as I can get is good enough.

I have been in this position twice trying to get it exact…one more touch of the key and it passes by…right now I am about one tooth off here.

[Gary Lewis]

Pull the spark plugs out.  That will remove the compression that is pushing you past TDC.

[AmericanSavage]

Well that was an adventure.  Pulled the plugs, and it made it more difficult to get it right because of the free spin.  Took me a while and many rotations to get it right, and a lot of tricky key work.

 BUT, this looks better!

[Gary Lewis]

Key?  I use a 15/16" socket on the crank bolt, gently inserted back in the crank.  W/o the plugs in the engine usually rotates fairly easily.

Anyway, that is better.  

[AmericanSavage]

Gary Lewis wrote

Key?  I use a 15/16" socket on the crank bolt, gently inserted back in the crank.  W/o the plugs in the engine usually rotates fairly easily.

Anyway, that is better.  

Bah, I meant touching the ignition/key just right to rotate the engine.

I was afraid, TBH, of breaking that bolt, but I thought of it!  I may do it tomorrow, because I think I am still, 1/8th off.

I finger tightened the spark plugs so as to prevent moisture from entering tonight.  Easy to get them all back out and tweak with that bolt…well sorta easy.  Those back plus #4 & #8, are a bear!

BTW, I have been going through slowly your Big Blue thread.  I am learning a lot—and I still want your front bumper.

Thank you for all your help today!

[Gary Lewis]

You won't break the bolt.  I use it frequently to turn an engine over with the plugs in, so w/o the plugs it should be easy.

If you are going through that whole thread you have too much time on time on your hands!  I went through over 100 pages today to find out what brand of insulation I used on the air inlet system so I could buy some more.  (The search feature worked but I couldn't find it in the results.)  Man, that is a huge thread!  But, then, a lot has been done to that truck.

Anyway, welcome.  Happy to help.

[mat in tn]

I often have people want to do this all by the starter. I never do! I always turn the crank manually. the crank bolt is the way. a close second is a socket made for this specifically and third would be a large adjustable wrench which can do the same thing when it "hangs" on the keyway. I just do the last one as a last resort to move small amounts. just be sure to use Sae. the metric adjustables don't quite fit.

[Gary Lewis]

mat in tn wrote

just be sure to use Sae. the metric adjustables don't quite fit.

Would that be a left or right-hand SAE adjustable?  

[mat in tn]

I'm ambidextrous

[AmericanSavage]

mat in tn wrote

I often have people want to do this all by the starter. I never do! I always turn the crank manually. the crank bolt is the way. a close second is a socket made for this specifically and third would be a large adjustable wrench which can do the same thing when it "hangs" on the keyway. I just do the last one as a last resort to move small amounts. just be sure to use Sae. the metric adjustables don't quite fit.

After discovering how easy it is to do it with the plugs out, I will never attempt such a stupid thing again.  Man that was easy.

What is the socket specifically made for this type of adjustment?  

[mat in tn]

there is a nice socket which has an opening inside the diameter of the crank snout and has a keyway relief slot also. it fits on a 1/2" drive so it's very handy. we have one in the shop. now the one we have is made of aluminum, so I don't use it for fully assembled engines. but by the time I have exceeded it I'm installing the damper anyway.

[AmericanSavage]

Well, another hiccup:  The Edel set requires you ditch the eccentric 2 piece for a one piece.  Would have been nice if this was in the specs before purchase—was in the instruction sheet only.

I hear Cloyes calling me now.  

[Gary Lewis]

Bummer!  Glad you caught that.

[AmericanSavage]

OK, so I need some advice here—called Cloyes—they say they have no fitmet that will reuse the the 2 piece eccentric—they also require the ditching of the 2 piece and using a single piece.  

Is this something specific/odd for the 351M and rollers?  

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know the answer to that question.  I haven't put a new chain on an M-Block.  Had Dad's engine built by TMeyer, and Rusty's engine already had a new chain.  Sorry.

So, why not put a single piece and use the Eddy?

[AmericanSavage]

Gary Lewis wrote

I don't know the answer to that question.  I haven't put a new chain on an M-Block.  Had Dad's engine built by TMeyer, and Rusty's engine already had a new chain.  Sorry.

So, why not put a single piece and use the Eddy?

The part number required for the single piece is C3AZ-6287-B.  It is a Ford Part discontinued.  Also, if you find one, it is spendy for a round cup that does not spin internally.  

The one I find at Summit, is not for my fitmet (at least in the specs).  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6287-b302


So, I am stuck it seems.

Odd that they sell the sets for the 351m and just don’t include the part that has been discontinued by Ford.

Really harshed my buzz today.

[Gary Lewis]

Strange!

I went to Rock Auto and see a Melling timing set for the M but it doesn't say whether it takes a single or two-piece eccentric.  I think I'd call Melling.

[AmericanSavage]

Gary Lewis wrote

Strange!

I went to Rock Auto and see a Melling timing set for the M but it doesn't say whether it takes a single or two-piece eccentric.  I think I'd call Melling.

I called them.  

Survey says?  

Single piece eccentric.  

So it is safe to assume that for EVERY roller set, for the 351M, there needs to be a corresponding single piece eccentric for it to work.

BUT, find me that piece that works with the 351M/C?  

I stumped all the techs today.  Back to square 1.  May just have to survive for the time being with the stock chain setup.  BUT, I really want to install a roller, if not now, someday.