Starter spins with key in "RUN" position

[Invisibleman13]

I'll try this again. 1984 F150 302 AOD. New starter, new battery, new ignition switch, new starter solenoid/relay on the fender, wiring hooked up correctly, I turn the key to the "RUN" position, the starter starter starts spinning until I turn the key to the "OFF" position. Does anyone have any ideas?

[Gary Lewis]

If it is wired correctly then I'd bet the ignition switch is not adjusted correctly.  The instructions for that are on the Ignition tab on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition.

[Invisibleman13]

                                   
Ignition switch aligned before I reinstalled it

Wiring at the solenoid
Starter still starts spinning before key reaches "START" position in key cylinder rotation. When I first replaced the ignition switch two weeks ago the truck started fine.

[Gary Lewis]

I'd pull the R/LB wire from the starter relay and put a test light on it.  Then get in the cab and turn the ignition switch to watch where the light comes on.  I'm guessing that it comes on at the same spot where the starter starts spinning.  If so then you know the problem is in the ignition switch circuit.

If that's the case then I think there's a problem with the switch - either a bad one or still not adjusted correctly.  Do you have the old switch?  If so I'd put a pin in it as explained on the Ignition page and install and adjust it.  Then try it.

[Invisibleman13]

Test light comes on just before the key gets to the "START" position on the key cylinder. Unfortunately I do not still have the old switch. I'll try to get it realigning with the pin that came with the new one again. Thanks Gary, these are the answers I was looking for in my previous post, but the other admin kept telling me I had the solenoid wired incorrectly.

[Gary Lewis]

You might be able to just move the switch back a bit and test.  Move & test.  You want to get all of the several circuits in the switch to "make" when the key is in Run.

[Invisibleman13]

Gary, I followed your suggestion and used a test light on the signal wire for the solenoid. It didn't seem to matter how I adjusted the ignition switch, forward or back, the test light came on with the key in the "RUN" position. I'm really hoping it's not bad wiring.

[mat in tn]

I can see how this has gotten very frustrating. using the test light is good. as opposed to constantly running the starter. I would be more suspicious of the ignition switch than the wiring. unless somebody has been into the wiring splicing wires etc. one point about the ignition switch. it has multiple run contacts and one momentary contact with a spring-loaded return. this last one is for the starter relay. it is not difficult or even uncommon to get this incorrect. a very simple part to re check. the actuating rod is intended to go into a dedicated pin location, but I have seen where an installer got it at one end. this will drive the switch in an advanced position and do exactly as you are experiencing.

[Invisibleman13]

The previous owner had a push button installed for the start, but it was stand alone wiring. All the factory wiring had been left alone. Tomorrow I'll check to make sure the actuating rod is in the correct location. Thanks for the help

[Gary Lewis]

I agree, the ignition switch is very suspect.  Either the switch is bad or something isn't right in the linkage t it.

I would check to see if the things that are supposed to come on in Run are on.  Radio, blower fan, etc.  If going to the Run position gets the R/LB wire hot then maybe in Off the others are on?

And then I'd buy a new switch.

[Invisibleman13]

I bought a new switch earlier, I'll try the suggestion from Mat in the morning

[Invisibleman13]

Well this isn't getting any better. I made sure the actuating rod was in the right location and when I went to tighten the mounting nuts down, the rear mounting stud broke off of the column

[Gary Lewis]

Bummer!  So, what are your plans?

[Invisibleman13]

I got a parts truck that I'm using to convert the '84 to four wheel drive, I guess I'm pulling the column out too. The parts truck is an '80 that runs and drives, it just has a broken frame.

[Gary Lewis]

When you pull the column out I'd replace the lower bearing with a DRB Fab unit and check the upper bearing.  The lower one takes a lot of punishment and wears out pretty quickly, so the DRB unit firms things up nicely.  And the upper one is easy to replace if needed.

[Invisibleman13]

Thanks for the advice.

[Invisibleman13]

A quick update on my starter issues. I swapped columns from the '80 into the '84 and still had the same problem. The '80 had no issues with starting, so I think it's a wiring problem. I reinstalled the push button start and it starts good, but now I have other problems to deal with. Thanks to those that helped answer my questions.

[BigBrother-84]

Invisibleman13 wrote

I swapped columns from the '80 into the '84 and still had the same problem. The '80 had no issues with starting, so I think it's a wiring problem.

Man, sorry to hear that!

Been there, done that... That's the hard way to eliminate other possibilities and narrow a problem.
Good luck!