Speedo cable driven gear color code

[Gary Lewis]

That's not the right one.  Your screenshots from Youtube are correct.

I'm not saying the one you have won't work, but it is the wrong one.  I may have the part number in Big Blue's Transformation thread since I had to replace the first one because I didn't get the nut tight enough.

[BigBrother-84]

Not a lot popping on the web, maybe my search criteria aren’t correct…

Found one seal looking right, 27$:


But Bronco Graveyard sells a kit that seems to contain the right seal, for 18$.  I suppose the rear shaft seal is included, but not 100% sure:

[Gary Lewis]

Obviously the JBG price is better, but I trust Torque King for getting not only the right parts but good quality parts.  That's where I got my parts.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Could this possibly be the difference between a slip yoke and a fixed yoke output?
I know my slip yoke 1356 has the conical type seal.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, that’s exactly what the difference is. You have a slip yoke and we have fixed yokes.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It looks like the JBG kit has the input and both output seals, along with the shifter and speedo seals plus adapter gasket.

[BigBrother-84]

Gary Lewis wrote

Obviously the JBG price is better, but I trust Torque King for getting not only the right parts but good quality parts.  That's where I got my parts.

[BigBrother-84]

Gary Lewis wrote

As for the t-case, it looks like Big Blue's twin so you have a BW1345.  Look closely in the wedge-shaped recess next to the rear output opening and you'll find it says Borg Warner 13-45.

If the green arrow points to the fill plug and the red one to the drain plug, seems that there’s not a lot of oil in a BW-1345 TC.
I’m a bit surprised.



Any advice about the oil type and/or quality?

[Gary Lewis]

No, it doesn't take a lot.  There's an oil pump that moves the lube around.  I'm running Amsoil Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF in mine.

[BigBrother-84]

Thanks Gary.

Your Dummy King gathered all his courage and attacked the drive shaft/yoke/transfer case seal dismantlement.


Wanna know what happened to Big Brother’s Speedo Drive Gear?
The plastic gear sled on the steel shaft…  Ever seen something like this?

[Gary Lewis]

Wow!  I've not seen that before.  Maybe your speedo cable was binding up?  

[BigBrother-84]

Yep, my Dummy fault, I’m guilty.


I found that when I kinked the cable a bit (behind the speedo) this one was more "smooth”.
When I installed the Speed Control kit, the Speed Sensor moved the cable jonction closer to the firewall, kinking the cable more than “normal”.
And your Dummy King kinked it a bit more.
So… everything jammed.

For the replacement cable, I made a new hole in the firewall, in order to have the cable running  out more “straight”.

About the replacement seal:
It is not exactly the same than the one I pulled out.
It is thicker:


How should I install it?
Do I push it flush to the TC surface (so deeper inside)?
And what side facing the inner TC, the one with the spring?

[Gary Lewis]

I think the spring goes in, but I'm not certain and none of the documentation seems to say.  But I did find this in the Borg-Warner document: "Position oil seal over cover with the side marked OUTSIDE up."  No "outside" on yours?

And, it says to drive it in flush.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Open (spring side) in. Drive it flush with the case.
Be sure to put a little lube or grease on the shaft and seal lips first, so it doesn't start out dry.

Many would say to pack the spring in grease so it can't be knocked loose accidentally while driving the seal in.
I've never had that happen.

[BigBrother-84]

Job done!
Road test tomorrow morning…



Gentlemen, thank so much for you nice and kindly support, as usual!

[Gary Lewis]

Looks good, Jeff.  

[BigBrother-84]

A road test concluded by a majestic fail, scraping my bran new 7 tooth Drive gear and 18 tooth Driven gear...

Yep.

The problem wasn't any too curvy path for the cable:  The problem was the speedometer itself.


But this time, the cable stopped and didn't broke.  The two gears did.

I had a spare shaft seal, a spare 18 tooth Driven Gear, but only a 6 tooth Drive gear on hand.

THE GOOD NEWS:

1- Yesterday was my first lifetime Drive gear replacement, it took me about 3 hours.  Wasn't too sure how to proceed, didn't want to break anything, wasted a lot of time analyzing every step.
Today, I did it in 40 minutes, including my installation.

2- I had in stock a NOS speedometer, but without the Tripometer.  I replaced the faulty speedo with it, it works perfectly, absolutely no jumping, completely smooth.  So, forget the tripo.

3- With a working speedo, Big Bro's Speed Control works again (great!).

THE BAD NEWS:

The 6 tooth Drive gear results in a speedo giving about 6mph (10 km/h) less than the real speed.
So, I'll have to order replacement and crawl under the truck to do it again.

I am wondering if it could be possible to change only the Driven gear in order to compensate the 6 tooth drive gear?


Kind of:

[Gary Lewis]

Yikes!  So you ruined both the new drive and driven gears and it was a bad speedo?

But have both of them as well as the seal replaced in 40 minutes?  Wow!  You are GOOD!

Yes, you can easily replace the driven gear to correct the problem, just as you calculated.  

[BigBrother-84]

Excellent news Gary!

Not that I do not appreciate to de-yoke the transfer case, and maybe could beat my own record…

But I am a lazy mechanic, don’t forget!

[Gary Lewis]

You aren't lazy at all!  Look at all you've done.  You just don't want to do unnecessary stuff.