Ski Boat with a 302

[ArdWrknTrk]

I understand, that's why I said that crimp looked extra crispy...
This thread somewhat reminds me of trying to resurrect Donnie's Velocity. The wiring, lights and controls in that little skater were pooched.

High ZDDP is still a requirement for solid lifter cams, as it creates a self healing anti galling layer on all iron and steel inside the engine.
While hydraulic lifters with reasonable pressure valve springs don't theoretically need it, you don't have a Cat to poison and the engine was designed with ZDDP in mind (because it was in all oils back then)

I buy it because
A) Rotella has cut way back now that new diesels have cats and the service index changed
B) it's almost the cheapest oil on the shelf at the big chains and farm stores.

I'm not trying to push it on anyone. Like I said, make what you will of that.

[ratdude747]

Ah. From the research I'm doing it has hydraulic lifters... and a 351 cam, assuming all is stock. Still, if the oil is available and somewhat reasonably priced, sure. Just trying to keep it from sludging too awful, hence why I was looking to synthetics.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, it's a 302. It has hydraulic lifters.
I'm saying that since you can run an older API spec the extra antiwear additives won't hurt expensive emissions components.

I don't know what firing order the cam has but the 302's went to 13726548 like the 351 sometime in the early 80's.
Marine engines are a thing onto themselves....

If you want a synthetic with a high detergent package then maybe something like Rotella T6 is a better choice for you?

[ratdude747]

T6 is an option... 5w-40 specifically. But, im now reading 5w-40 t6 is too light in shear protection. And mercury now recommends 25w-40 (their quicksilver brand, of course, $53 per gallon ).

Edit- apparently when asked on this particular motor, mercury still says to use sae-30. And many brands do make full synthetic versions. I guess that's what it is and just to not lean on until fully up to temp... and stop being a ratdude who fixes what ain't broke.

Oil capacity is 6 qts.

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Finally got the dumb decals off.





Too lazy to buff... I'd have to buff the whole thing (or feather it really well) and I'm not feeling it. This isn't a show boat...

[Nothing Special]

ratdude747 wrote

....  But, we can't just put a wire in there... as the other coil + wire is tied directly to the drive of the starter relay (uses both relay control terminals). Since I want to keep start and run fully isolated, the solution is to solder a harness with isolating shottkey diodes to feed the coil:

You probably know this, and it may not matter.  But there's a 0.7V voltage drop across a diode.  Usually that's not significant, but in an ignition system it might be (emphasis on MIGHT).

[ratdude747]

I am very aware of this... and if it fails, I'll have to run a relay (with the diode branch controlling such)... less than ideal. But it is plan B.

[85lebaront2]

Looking over everything, it sure looks familiar, my second department manager had a boat, same Mercruiser stern drive setup, 188 HP engine. It was a 302 with a hotter cam and 351 heads.

Suggestion from someone who has worked on a number of marine engines. See if you can get the exhaust elbows off and inspect them and the manifolds for leaks. At least with a Ford engine you don't have head bolts into the water jacket like those "French" engines do.

[ratdude747]

Noted

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Carb came in. In the process of fitting it up.





Looks like I'll be redoing the fuel line from the pump. Didn't Like the setup. Thankfully the pump connection looks like a pipe thread with flare adapter... a 3/8 barb and some 3/8 fuel hose will fix that. Oh wait, that's also supposed be coast guard approved too?

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's a great price on a marine specific carb, and it looks good on there!  

[ratdude747]

What do you know... some times even blind squirrels find a nut once in a while.

Installed other than the fuel line...





Choke connections are a bit loose after some fiddling. May end up replacing the heater if it becomes a problem.

Also yanked the old fuel line. Yep, 1/4 npt at the pump, barb on carb is for 3/8 hose. Fitting was loose too... ended up snapping off the steel part of the line. And the fuel that spilled out didn't smell terribly bad... no pine smell or the like. Good aroma of 93 octane...

[85lebaront2]

Looks good! It really does bring back memories of working on boat engines.

Most fun was a pair of Gray Marine straight 8s in a big old cabin cruiser that belonged to the family that owned the Dodge/Mercedes/Jaguar/MG dealership I worked at. As near as we could tell they were Packard Super 8s and had a tach drive where the distributor would have been. Dual Zenith updraft carbs, starboard engine had them inboard and they weren't too bad, port engine they were outboard and you had to lie down and slide back and forth to adjust them. Distributors were on the aft end, which was actually the front of the engines, flywheels were partially exposed so you had to be damn careful if they were running.

[ratdude747]

Another project tonight... nav/anchor lighting. Pulled the stern light socket (missing wires, toasty harness) and the bow light (burnt out #90 bulb, very faded) to hunt down replacements.

The stern light is no good... as it is a very long mounting plate, presumably to handle the high speeds. Looking at it again, I had an idea...



While those broken wires are crimped, the crimp sleeves are pretty thick. So I drilled the wire stubs out with a 1/16" bit:



...and soldered some old but serviceable twin wire:



I've since installed it (no pic). I'll take care of crimping it in tomorrow. As I've figured out (I have no Starcraft schematics) that for Starcraft accessories, brown is ground; Blue is the stern light switched +12V and green is the bow light switched +12V (whether the breaker is on the positive or ground sides I dunno)... odd, means that the fried stern light wire is actually a ground (if no breaker, I could bypass...) But I couldn't find a pin out on stern light sockets... probably because there is none. I'll use bullet or spade crimps so once I have a stern light, I can deduce the polarity if the light I eventually purchase doesn't have a built in rectifier. I've read of other boaters having this issue on stock wiring, hence why I've concluded there is no standard.

As for the bow light, the original one is similar to a few modern LED units, but they are shorter. Hopefully not a problem:



I could shove an yellow LED in the existing unit (it's blue and red to be used with incandescent bulbs) but as faded as it is (and a royal pain to reassemble), I'm not inclined to go there if something premade will fit and work.

[ratdude747]

Looks like I get to put a bulb in the old bow light... screw pitch is 2", newer lights are 1 15/16. I mean I might be able to work with it, but not worth messing up the fiberglass.

The question is do I try to LED it, or just put another incandecent in it? Edit- I'll probably just put another incandescent in. Not something I'll use much, and proper LEDs are pricey.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The wand socket is looking good!  

LED's never seem to work well with colored lenses. At least in the case of a single #90 behind both red & green.
LED the same color as the lens is fine.

Though I really like LED's and feel they have advantages in a marine environment if you're going to keep the bow light I'd stick with incandescent.

[ratdude747]

My thoughts too. Normally not an issue when dealing with interior lights (like in my '95 ranger, where I actually like blue lights), but since it's a legally required color, it has to be correct.

The other possible issue is with the stern light... as I get the idea that the socket itself isn't standard either:



Most light sockets I see just have one female notch... not a bunch of male notches. Wonderful...

Maybe the pole fits between the notches?

[ratdude747]

More updates:

Got the fuel line sorted out:



Took a few trips to the store... went with 3/8 like the original line (carb had a 5/16 barb, IMHO too small for a quad?)

Edit- I'm a lawless twit... yes I do need to use coast guard approved hose (or bend and flare a new steel line), not 50PSI automotive hose. It'll work for now... but technically isn't legal. I doubt the line between the pump and tank is legal either... For another day? Edit2- That rule apparently is for new builds, not maintenance of existing boats... now, would an insurance adjuster OK it is another issue once I'm to the point where it's worth insuring. The hose is SAE 30R14 T1 compliant at least...

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Also fixed the glove box. Retrofitted a generic locking latch off Amazon:







Took quite a bit of filing, cutting, and bending. But it works and looks legit from 5 ft away

Only annoyance is that it uses the same key blank as the ignition. If it wasn't hard to service (and not break), I'd be tempted to see about swapping the wafers out to match it to the ignition key. Oh well.

Finally, ordered a pertronix ignitor unit and put an offer on a coil. This is an ignitor 1 unit; open box for $80 shipped. Coil is a used 3 ohm epoxy flamethrower that I'm guessing was used on a Harley. Doing this partially to save money, but also, while researching the differences, read some reviews that the ignitor II's can be unreliable (compared to the original ignitor) and the original ignitor can be used without a resistor if the coil is correct (1.5-3.5 ohm for a V8). The reviews are from 2005, but on a boat, reliability is king.

[ratdude747]

Today's updates:

First, my registration letters came in:





Botched matching the height. Oh well. Looks passable at least?

Now for the big update: while beginning to work on the stern light, I noticed something looked different with the starter wiring. Came to discover that the boat has been PMGR swapped already (marine rated) but instead of using the old starter relay to drive the solenoid, they snipped the relay control wire mid-harness and wire nutted a new wire from there to the solenoid.

Likewise, the tan wire on the starter relay "I" terminal doesn't get power during crank. I'm sure that made starting fun... the starter relay is now just a battery junction.
Solution to both problems: add a pair of relays and redo the mods!

I had a pair of mountable automotive relays and interlocking connectors on the shelf, so that's what I used. I didn't have all the nuts to the old starter relay and I didn't know if it was any good. Using a pair of relays with a common plug made things a bit easier.

I'll draw up schematics later, but for now, relay 1 is starter solenoid control and relay 2 is ignition power. The second relay is powered off the relocated dual diode pigtail, which connects to run power (carb heater) and the starter relay control. Picture of the temporary testing setup:

Power and ground sourced from one of the trim control relays:



Also in there is the relocated stern light wiring. The burnt wire is burnt all down the harness (it's BAD ), but it is in fact a ground. Likely the stern light cable rotted, and they removed the plug, leaving the unshrouded ground connector hanging loose, which one day found one of the many hot terminals in that area and smoked itself up. I just tied into the trim relay ground... modern LED stern (anchor) lights don't draw much.

Back to the relays... ignition wiring:



The red harness will be taped/routed with the existing harness tomorrow. Just set it out to allow for testing.

Relays:



My plan is to mount them off the side of the bilge... behind it is a bunch of floatation foam. I'll have to get appropriate screws...

The pertronix parts are supposed to arrive tomorrow... so we'll see. Getting closer...

[Gary Lewis]

Progress!

But a word of caution on relays for a PMGR. I have a Powermaster PMGR and tried using a standard Bosch relay, which worked for a while but then gave intermittent power to the starter- in the middle of cranking.

Called Powermaster and they said I should NOT use a Bosch relay. Instead use a standard Ford starter relay. I did and the problem went away.

But others have different results, so maybe it is just the starter I have?  However, what starter do you have?

[ratdude747]

Some brand with a boat propeller logo. Might have had marine in the name?

That said, I now remember noting that while doing a crank test with the starter relay removed, the oil buzzer didn't shut off. RUN may already be hot in START... so no need for diodes and relays. In that case, I'll have to see if the old relay's output nut is still there... and see if the relay still works. Or replace with a standard ford stater relay?

[Gary Lewis]

I think marine relays are to be sealed like the starters, etc. Don’t want to ignite a bilge full of gasoline fumes.

My OMC used 4 of those for trim/tilt and another for starting, and they went out frequently and cost quite a bit more than an automotive unit.