His specific truck will actually be easier because Sky offers a frame box kit for the 92-96 trucks that will allow him to bolt any of the 92-97 RSK's to the 4x2 frame.
SKY Offroad 92-96 Frame Box Sky also offers a 92-97 coil spring kit for the newer axles as well. Coil Swap Kit |
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Yes! Thanks, Shaun.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by salans7
But this means a 'newer axle' not just any D60, yes????
As I said at the start of Big Blue's transformation, Sky seems to make innovative and quality components. Though Gary encountered some teething problems, we see what happens when a vendor WANTS to work with a customer to make things right. (Wink and a nod to GSMBlue)
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
The coil kit is meant for 2005+ axles, they do not make coil kits for the 1986-1997 D60.
Chris Guthro (one of our newer members) swapped his bullnose F150 to a D60 using the factory brackets, so that is an option, although I don't know how it would work on an aeronose frame, plus you'd have to find the brackets. |
The engine mounts I have are a combo of:
Stock 300 frame brackets (bolt on top of crossmember, not to the backside like SBF brackets) 89-93 dodge/cummins engine isolators (mounts) Home made engine brackets located in the factory location. These were made from a combo of the original 89-93 engine brackets and a piece of 4" x 1/2" strap. Clearance between these mounts and the vacuum/power steering pump combo is rather close, but no issues have arisen. Moving the engine forward would have solved this, but led to even less room between the rad and fan mount hub..... I also used a 91-93 dodge radiator. It fits better in a Ford.........
1980 F150 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel NV4500 2.75 ratio 9"
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Great details Paul!
Thanks for sharing. 👍 There are Fummins owner and tech groups on FB, as well as a subsection on DieselBombers. But I understand if you don't want to wade into that..
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Agreed, thanks for sharing! I think James said that he had a source for the engine mounts, so while they may still be homemade brackets, they won't be made in his home. Speaking of my brother, I had him pull the TPS from the diesel and drop it off with me yesterday - he lives about 50 miles from here, but his work takes him by my house on Wednesdays. I've never thought about a TPS before, but it's just a simple potentiometer which makes it super easy to connect to an Arduino. Even better, that means it can be completely powered by the Arduino so we don't have to figure out how to connect it to the vehicle electrical system.
That's one pin on the TPS to ground, one to +5V, and the third to an analog pin to read the resulting voltage when the pot is twisted with a screwdriver. The relay board to the right of the Arduino is what we'll likely use to switch vehicle power to the torque converter lockup and to the overdrive module. The code (so far) is very easy, it's just reading the TPS voltage on the A0 analog pin, scaling it to a 0% - 100% range, and then printing the resulting value. This is just test code to prove I can read the TPS, but something very close will find its way into the final software.
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So, the pot is completely linear?
It's not like an audio potentiometer, or any of the other variations? (Asking for a friend....)
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
This post was updated on .
I can't speak to every TPS out there, but this one (Standard Motor Products TH175) certainly seems to be. |
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When you say TPS you really mean pedal position sensor, right?
I mean... there is no 'throttle' on a diesel.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by Dorsai
That's cool, Matthew! The Arduino makes things like that simple.
I'm actually looking forward to working on my Arduino project. I haven't even selected the Arduino much less the daughter board, which has to be able to sink 1 amp as I'm going to use PWM to drive the fuel gauge. So if you have suggestions on hardware, please let me know.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I'll be happy to share anything I learn, but I suspect that won't be much - we're going with an Uno because that's what I have laying around, and we chose the Sunfounder relay module because it claims it can handle the load and is CHEAP. Now...if either of those turn out to be poor decisions you will be the first to know.
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Matthew - The Uno is what I've been thinking of using. But I've not found an output transistor shield/board that I like yet., although I've not looked in quite a while. Anyway, if you run across one please let me know. And, good luck!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Will do!
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Nothing big to report as far as progress goes, just some minor updates:
The transducer is on order from Amazon and should be here this week, hopefully over the weekend I can start writing the code to read it. |
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What rear axle or VSS is in a '95 250?
I was under the impression it just created a pulse by sweeping a magnet past a pickup, like a distributor. At least I know that's how my RABS works....
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
We didn't get into huge detail, but my understanding of the VSS that's in the truck now is that it provides a variable voltage signal depending on speed - very different than the more common pulse one that you describe. I don't know how that voltage is generated or anything, but it sounded like more trouble than it is worth, especially when getting a pressure signal from the transmission is so easy. |
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That's interesting Matthew.
I'll have to look into it. For now you have an apparently more workable approach. I'll be interested to see how you integrate it into your shift mechanism.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Been thinking a bit about the operational environment of the Arduino, and those delicate pins and plugs that it has. I got to wondering if there was something more heavy duty out there and, sure enough, there is.
Behold...the Ruggeduino-ET ST!
Some nice features it has:
I'll need to do a little more research before committing to this, but it sure looks like the way to go. I thought others considering Arduino projects might be interested in this (or any of the other ruggedized Arduinos they offer) as well. |
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That's a great find! That is a much better solution that trying to interface vehicle wires to little bitty connections.
If you run across one of those, or something like it, that has the ability inherently of sinking 500 ma, meaning w/o a shield, please let me know. But I'm sure I'll need a shield to do that. Fortunately they say the Ruggeduino-ET ST "Screw Terminal" "Works with the Arduino GUI and is compatible with Arduino shields and libraries." So a MOSFET shield should do the trick.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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