Return of Code 31...

[ckuske]

Almost have everything disconnected.  The connectors on the driver side wheel well - they were a pain.  Of course I broke a couple tabs, etc..  But a wire broke right at where it enters these connectors.  I was thinkning of replacing the "male" ends of these connectors (the male pins are recessed in a cavity) because like most of my other wiring, it is less than optimal.

I can barely find any reference to these connectors in the MPC or really much of the internet, either.  I'm hoping there is some tribal knowledge out there?

D4AB-14A459-JB
D4AB-14A459-HB
D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right)

I can probably use them as is, except that one wire that broke right where it enters the shell - what a pain.  I haven't tried to try and know if you can "de-pin' or remove that wire from the shell.  The wire looks almost molded in to be waterproof so I'm not sure it can be removed.  I don't have any material to work with to solder a new wire to it...

Here's an example

[Gary Lewis]

You do know that any number ON a part is not a part number, right?  If not go read the page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers.

And now for the bad news.  To convert ID #'s, like what you find on a part, I have to turn to Ford's master parts cross-reference catalog.  Here's what I found:

D4AB-14A459-JB  The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part
D4AB-14A459-HB  The D4 means it first came out in '75, and my 1980 cross-ref doesn't include that part
D8AB-14A458-EB (this one is kinda cruddy to read, but I think I got it right)  You may not have gotten that one right as there's no reference to a 14A458.  It jumps from 14457 to 14A459.

However, all is not lost.  Take a look at the page at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors and see if you can find them.

[ckuske]

Hi Gary,

Yep, I do. I know there is the engineering number and then what the REAL part number is. It’s always good to be reminded though, and to use the right nomenclature on my part. :)

Ok, seems like I’ll need to figure out how to fix this bugger, or maybe make a trip out to the junkyard to look for an example in better shape.

[Gary Lewis]

Might you go to new weatherproof connectors?  I know you'd have to change both sides, but it might be better than using old connectors.

[ckuske]

Good idea, any suggestions on which to use?

[Gary Lewis]

I'm using these on Big Blue.  But then I ordered the crimper separate, so you might consider getting this package that appears to include the crimper.

But others are using Weatherpack connectors, which are probably better - and cost a lot more.  Just note in either case they aren't designed for a lot of current, just signals.

[ckuske]

Much appreciated, thank you!

As much as I'd like to keep everything original, I am willing to sacrifice here if it keeps things humming correctly!

[Gary Lewis]

I think these connectors are better than the ones used on Bullnose trucks, so I think they are an upgrade.

[ckuske]

Yeah, these are pretty miserable to deal with.  Function over form in this case!

[ckuske]

Ok, I'm sorry to be high maintenance here, but I am having a heck of a time getting the 1-wire O2 sensor plug to come apart.  

The main issue is getting the clips on each side of the plug to be pried up at the same time while I'm hanging over the passenger side fender.  I get a screwdriver under one side, then rotate it to get a screwdriver under the other side and one pops out, etc.  I've spent over an hour futzing with this connector and I'm about ready to just snap the clips off it, but I don't REALLY want to do that.  I'd rather not reach down there ever again haha.

Any suggestions?  

[Gary Lewis]

Clips on both sides?  Yikes!

I've used small things like cotter keys to hold a clip up, things that don't have a handle and, therefore, enough weight on the other end to rotate it.  Another favorite is a 1/4" male disconnect, that's just right to slide under there and hold the clip up.

[85lebaront2]

Try these:
Item-----------------Ford Pn-------AUVECO PN-----Motorcraft
EEC relay-----3U2Z-14S411-UEA----20172---------WPT-524
FP relay-------3U2Z-14S411-UGA---17622---------WPT-566
DS-II 3 pin---3U2Z-14S411-XXA----20841---------WPT-601
DS-II 4 pin----------------------------20844
EEC-IV test---------------------------17623

AUVECO can be ordered from Clips and Fasteners .com

I had spaced them out nicely, but Nabble shoved them back together.

[grumpin]

I've used a tie wrap, the serrations seemed to help it stay in place on whatever I was working on.

These things can be a bugger!

[ckuske]

I forgot about Auveco, thanks!  They are always a good place to look.

[ckuske]

Thanks, Dane!   Good suggestion, I'll try that today.

[ckuske]

Got the harness out!

The O2 sensor was the last issue, and I had bought one of these on Amazon before Dane posted his suggestion. I'll remember that for the future if I lose this baby:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STTPW

Night and day difference.  I'll post pictures of the harness tomorrow.  I have counted at least 4 broken or bare wires, with at least 3 having the distinct possibility of them shorting each other out...

[Gary Lewis]

That's a cool tool!  

Glad you got it out and are finding what was surely causing the problems.

[grumpin]

That is a slick tool! Lisle makes some handy stuff! Glad you got it apart.

[ckuske]

Here is a picture of the worst part.  I got tied up with things other than the truck today, so I'll have to chip away at it in little bits.  There are several wires to replace.

I'm going to start by unwrapping the whole thing though to check out the whole length of the harness.

[Gary Lewis]

You are right, there are several wires to fix.  And you are right to open up the whole harness to see if there are other problems.

Then I'd lay it out on a work bench or table and set something heavy on the connectors so it'll stay in roughly a straight line.  That way you'll know how long the replacement wires need to be and you can cut the bad sections out and solder in new ones.  But you'll need to cut several inches away from the bad section in order to find copper that's good enough to solder to.