Rear brake leak?

[85lebaront2]

Gary, mine works fine, I will bet that  took the lever off it (a definite nono according to the FSM) and then reinstalled it. The new valves came with a retainer that was used to hold the valve innards in the proper position before attaching the lever.

When I rebuilt my rear springs and changed the axle, I took the bracket off the studs on the Sterling cover and swung it and the linkage on the valve up out of the way. After the axle was in, I reattached the bracket.

[Gary Lewis]

He might have, Bill.  He seems to have touched a whole lot of things on this truck, and since the rear springs have been replaced it stands to reason he played with that valve.

But Big Blue will STOP now.  I've sat him down quickly several time to make sure the brake system is working well, and it certainly is.  Night and day difference, and while some of that is due to the hydroboost, that doesn't change the proportioning, which is just right.

[grumpin]

I still have the valve, I would say it works, never been pushed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I was just trying to point out that it may be something to look at if you have a problem with not enough brakes in the rear.
And you seem to be losing fluid.

Certainly, the leak is the first thing to correct.
But if I was doing brake lines and had a rear end where I had to pull the axles, I'd replace the hose, wheel cylinders and hardware.... just because I don't want to go in there again.

You know how it is.
You fix the weak link and the rest of the chain falls apart.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not at all advocating the replacement of that valve if it is working.

And I fully agree that I'd replace the hoses while in there.  I've seen way too many of them in really poor shape.  Ditto wheel cylinders.  If you have the brake system apart so you are going to have to bleed it, and if you have the brake drums off, that's the time.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hoses plural?    ... in the rear?

Do the trucks with that valve have more than one, or are you suggesting the hose at each front wheel as well?

All this is conjecture. None of us know if he even has that valve.
I was just pointing out that it could be a contributor to poor braking at the rear, or even the cause of a leak.

Braking and steering systems are the two parts of a vehicle that absolutely have to be in good shape.
Not only for your own safety but for the safety of everyone you share the road with.

[Gary Lewis]

Trucks with that valve still have one hose at the rear.  But I'm suggesting that if you need to replace that one you'll probably need to replace the two up front.  They aren't expensive, so while the brake system is apart fix it right.

And you are correct, the braking system is crucial.

[swampedout]

Im in complete agreement about going through the whole system, which is why Im saving the job until I know I'll have time to tackle everything at once. I'd rather have the truck off the road for a week or two of focused wrenching, than have it out for a month or two of squeezing the job in on weekends. This way, I can also get all the parts I need ahead of time so I'm hopefully not waiting on the parts store to get something in.

I can't wait until this truck can actually stop a trailer. That's when the fun will really begin!

It looks like my truck does have the Load Sensing Valve (according to the Bullnose Bible brake page: part no e4tz 2b547). Is the LSPV mounted under the brake master?

[Gary Lewis]

No, the load-sensing valve is located on the driver's side frame near the rear axle.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Right where the hard line becomes hose going to the splitter/axle vent.

Edit:Scott has a picture of it here.

[swampedout]

Ok. I thought it would be somewhere on the rear axle. So I dont have it. One item crossed off the list.
There is a weird bend in the line against the frame above the axle. Its really hard to see up there. I almost want to pull the bed to redo the brake line but it doesnt seem worth it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I redid mine without pulling the bed.
Just be sure to get the new line in all the plastic clips inside the frame rail beside the tank.

Also, check how the existing is routed around any obstructions like the switch valve.

I found it easier to uncoil the tube and fish it from the front to rear (going over/under harness and fuel lines)
Then I left it slack so I could flare the fitting into the line.
I poked the brake hose up through the hole in the cross member and connected them before putting the C-clip back on the hose and securing the brake line from back to front.
This way I didn't end up with a bunch of unruly slack and didn't have to fight the line completely square into the end of the hose.

Anyone who has replaced a half a dozen hardlines into an ABS module knows what I mean by this.  : tantrum