Hi Gary and All,
my A/C is not cooling and I have a go at fixing this. My understanding is that the correct volume of the refrigerant is a pre-requisite for anything you do and check. I find my truck having a R134a adapter installed at one side (pic 2, I assume this to be the high pressure circuit) and none at the other side (consequently the low pressure circuit) therefore my local garage can´t connect it to check and re-fill. I have also checked the documents regarding the thread size of the original connector (see first pic) but can´t find anything. Can you advise on the thread size and / or advice on a source for this adapter? Already bought one over here in Germany on ebay but it didn´t fit in the end. Thanks for your thoughts. FYI: I am really appreciating cruising the bullnose over here in Germany. Given that they are relatively rare over here I get a lot of positive reaction and many smiles on the road. We will be moving house in August and September and then I will go back to the roots of it: being a work truck to pull and haul. Will keep you posted
Mein Laster: 1986 Ford F150 XL, 4WD, sgl cab, short bed, 302 EFI
Meine Katze: KTM 890 SMT |
Administrator
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It appears to me that the adapter you have is on the low pressure service port. Here is a diagram of the system:
The high pressure side adapter is not required to check refrigerant level and refill, but if you end up needing one I may have an extra. I hope to be renting the vacuum pump and servicing my system next week. I may have more experience about the R134a conversion then.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
Thanks a lot and from the diagram I agree to the low pressure service port. Also the info on one adapter needed is very helpful . I am considering now to look for a different garage / service provider who knows this as well
Mein Laster: 1986 Ford F150 XL, 4WD, sgl cab, short bed, 302 EFI
Meine Katze: KTM 890 SMT |
Administrator
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That is a good idea! I realize the bullnose is not familiar in Germany but the AC technician should still have been able to recognize the components. Hopefully you have what you need to get the service done 🙂
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
Administrator
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Jochen - Good to hear from you! Glad Jonathan quickly answered your questions.
By the way, you and he share the bit about using your truck to pull and haul. See his post here.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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the story continues
I had my AC refilled with R134a today but we realised that the compressor doesn´t work. It started for a very short period but then stopped. Apparently the electrical power at the compressor is ok when switched off. But when you switch on the AC the voltage actually disappears- to zero. So there must be something wrong electrically we believe. Will go back for further root cause analysis next week. If found these diagrams in the forum which will be of great help but if anybody has thoughts, experiences or thoughts I would appreciate these. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ac--heater.html best regards from warm and sunny Germany Jochen
Mein Laster: 1986 Ford F150 XL, 4WD, sgl cab, short bed, 302 EFI
Meine Katze: KTM 890 SMT |
Administrator
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Jochen - The Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch may be the problem. There's a test on Page 144 for it, but it opens if the pressure drops below a certain point to protect the compressor from too little freon. I would start there.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Thx Gary, I have checked all connections and now I get a nice and stable 12 Volt signal at the connector to the clutch coil when putting the AC on Max or Norm. The clutch however doesn‘t switch on and the compressor is not activated. I assume that means that
the clutch is not working. Any hint of how to check the clutch without dismantling ?
Regards Jochen
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Jochen Tillmann
+49 152 090 37774
Mein Laster: 1986 Ford F150 XL, 4WD, sgl cab, short bed, 302 EFI
Meine Katze: KTM 890 SMT |
Administrator
|
If you have 12v at the clutch and it doesn't come in then the clutch must be bad. But I'd want to disconnect the truck from the clutch and jumper from the battery to the clutch to make sure. If you put battery voltage to the clutch directly and the clutch doesn't come in then you know the clutch is bad.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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