Question About Brake Parts

[swampedout]

Im looking for help ordering brake pads.
I see a couple different options: 4wd, Rwd, and Dual piston. But I have no idea what the difference is.


Im also looking at getting a set of speed-bleeder valves for the truck because it's a one man show over here. If anyone knows what size threads the bleeder valves are, let me know. 3/8x24 is what I'm seeing for Russell speed-bleeders.

Thanks and hope everyones doing well and getting stuff done this weekend.

[ArdWrknTrk]

*Sam, you have 4WD and dual piston calipers, what's the question?

Not sure of bleeder thread pitch.
I use my MityVac for brake bleeding.

[swampedout]

Im just really not familiar with these trucks and there were too many options for caliper style.
Thanks for your help

I used a motive brake bleeder last time I replaced the MC but still didnt get a stiff pedal.
Ive used a mighty vac in the past and didnt get the best results. I know a lot of people who swear by them and I use them for other things but could never do a proper bleed with one.
Im expecting to be doing brakes a couple times because I think I have a leak somewhere so anything to make the process easier Im going to try it.
In the long run I know I should make new hard lines instead of half stepping the project. If new calipers and a fresh bleed doesnt get better results then Im diving all the way in.

[kramttocs]

Double check on the speed bleeders for a 4wd F250 before you order them.  I've got a set of 4 on a shelf because I assumed the catalog just left that combo off accidentally. As far as Dane and I know, they don't make them for us.

I have a craftsman bleeder that is the same as the mighty vac. Never have gotten it to work well. Always go back to the wife press and hold method.

[swampedout]

Thanks for that info, Scott. I will take my bleeder valves off and find the thread size before I order. Im hoping they have a match but if not, Ill do it the original way.

Theres also gravity bleeding, which I now have enough time for so I may give it a try.

[kramttocs]

It was actually the length that caused me issues on the front. I don't believe the speed bleeders are long enough to fully seat.
Let us know what you find. Would really like to try some of them out

[ArdWrknTrk]

Have either of you ever used a simple piece of clear hose and a jar half full of brake fluid?

Tygon tubing doesn't seem to get stiff and brittle after one use.

[kramttocs]

Tried that the last time but the tubing I had on hand didn't want to stay uncurled and knocked the mason jar over. After cleaning that up, was easier to call my wife out
With the right tubing or having the jar secured I'd give it another go.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Tygon, meant as fuel line, is almost rubbery, it doesn't seem to stay curled or have much memory.

I used a pickle jar, because that's what I had in the bin that I could find the lid for.

[kramttocs]

A flawless selection process if ever there was one!

Thanks for the heads up on the Tygon.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The fact that it's the same lurid green as the pickle juice had nothing to do with it.  

[Gary Lewis]

I've had poor experiences with my Mityvac.  The main issue is that the threads leak air while you are bleeding and you can't really tell when you've gotten all the air out.  When I've installed new components I've used PTFE paste on the threads to stop the leak, but I don't want to pull the bleeder screw on a system that just needs a little bleeding as it'll make a mess.  And, over time the PTFE paste hardens and leaks.

But Jim introduced me to Loctite PST, which doesn't seem to harden.  So maybe it is the answer?

Having said that, I'm really hoping the new style plastic master with the single round cap is the best answer.  To that I should be able to screw on a cap and pressurize the system slightly to power bleed it.

[old55pete]

Sounds like y'all need one of these...…….a pressure bleeder

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, Steve.  But those don't work well with the Bullnose master.  I'm thinking that it will with the later style though.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't think I need 4 gallons, nor the $400 price to get my pedal where I want.

But thanks for the heads up on that device!  👍

[old55pete]

Gary, the bigger of the two adapters is for the old school Ford, GM,ect,ect, master cylinders. It is what I used to bleed out the brakes on my Bronco. It took about 20 minutes to have a rock hard pedal.

And Yes Jim, it is a bit spendie, but worth the investment when you own a shop as you don't need two people to bleed brakes

[old55pete]

Sam, I was just thinking about this as I went outside, for some reason I was thinking about the steps I take when I am replacing calipers. The one step that makes bleeding go faster is to lay the caliper on a flat surface with the hole where the brake line bolt hole is facing up and pour brake fluid in it until the air quits bubbling out. Then take it out and hook the brake hose up first. This also works good with clutch slave cylinders that do not have a bleeder in them like the newer Fords and Dodges.

[Gary Lewis]

There are lots of different pressure bleeders out there, for very different prices.  But the thing in common is that they are usually intended for master cylinders with a single, screw-on cap.  Here's a couple I'm looking at:

Harbor Freight 92924: This is a whole $39 and includes an "automatic" refill bottle, assorted master cylinder caps, and a vacuum system with a reservoir that catches the old fluid.  It doesn't put pressure to the master, but does keep it full.

Motive Products: $85.46.
 This particular kit says it works with Ford masters, and it has a flat plate to act as the cover to the Bullnose cast iron ones.  But they have kits that support a wide variety of masters, shown here.  But this one at $92.99 looks like a good kit.

And here's a review of several kits:

Car Bibles

But, Cory said:

Rembrant wrote

I have one of those motive power bleeders or whatever they're called (with the cap adapter for European cars...in my case, Volkswagens) and I was never able to get the thing to work properly. It's in the box on the shelf in my garage collecting dust.

Most of the time I use a power bleeder that I made years ago using an SMC vacuum ejector on a glass jar. It takes compressed air to run, but offers constant hands free adjustable vacuum. I usually stick in on a bleeder screw, turn the vacuum on, and then go and slowly pour the fluid in the reservoir. Once the bubbles stop coming out of the bleeder screw, I close the screw. If I pull the tube off the bleeder with the vacuum still on, I don't even get a single drip to wipe up.

I use it for other jobs too, but I made the thing originally for doing motorcycle brakes so I could bleed both front calipers at the same time.

And, I think someone on here said they made a power bleeder with a garden sprayer but I've not found that post.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The whole 4 gallons thing though...

I think I'd be trashing 3 1/2 gallons of glycol every year if I had one of those.  

[Gary Lewis]

That's why I'm liking something smaller.  The Motive Products units hold 2 quarts.

I have an air pressure regulator that works nicely down at well less than 10 psi.  If I had a reservoir that held a couple of quarts of brake fluid I could put a fitting in a screw-on cap for my later master, come out of the reservoir's bottom with a hose into the cap, fill it with brake fluid, hang it from the hood, and put air to it.  Go around opening the bleeders and running that into a catch can, making sure not to deplete the reservoir.

Now, if I could find a kit like that so I don't have to make it....