Proper tuning sequence?

[26ftcobraBBF]

Here's my label, I don't see any code for the distributor unless it's the long number on the bottom left.

On Mon, Dec 14, 2020, 2:35 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

A cam involves pulling the intake, rocker arms, pushrods and lifters.
DAMHIK!

But the water pump backing plate is a weak link.
And once you are there......

Actually, the Ford HD cam is quite good for something like an RV if it is set 'straight up'
My old engine would just keep pulling, to 6k.

The convolute weep passages in the back side of the timing case are a darn sight better than coolant in your oil pan!
Be careful not to fill them with sealant on R&R the timing case.

I can offer advice, but it is only my personal experience, and I am no guru.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't see any pictures...

There isn't a code for the distributor.
You need to look up the calibration code and it will tell you all the different components that go into making up that calibration.

***I use a source of manifold vacuum to adjust idle mixture

[Gary Lewis]

That's not the label we are looking for.  And the last time I looked up that PN in the lower left it was for the blank label.  





As said, we are looking for a label like this, and we need the # like 2-03A-R10.  That is the calibration code and then I can look up the "calibration parts list" that will have the carb #, dist #, etc.




Here are the calibration codes for the 1985 E-Series vehicles with a 7.5L engine.  But I don't see any C/C body codes in the catalog, so I don't know how to find the calibration code.  Which is why I am hoping you can find it on the vehicle.




And here's what the body codes mean.

[26ftcobraBBF]

I'll check the radiator support tomorrow, otherwise I can't find it. The only sticker to host I've seen is the one I pictured previously, there's a copy of that one on the underside of the hood, then an A/C sticker.
For the radiator support would the sticker  be behind the grill, or inside maybe next to the radiator?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Nope, you've found the tune-up information/vacuum routing sticker.
Your question was "Proper tuning sequence" and I'm pointing out that the steps on the right half must be done in the order written.

Where you see the sticker says that the 4180 carburetor the E-350 came with had the idle mixture screws plugged as federally mandated (tamper proof) the 4160 you have now can be adjusted for highest vacuum reading.
That's usually how you would set idle mixture.

The sticker Gary wants is found on the drivers side valve cover close to where the oil fill enters.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Also note Gary's listing for body types.
We can assume E30, cutaway RV.

On the drivers door jamb will be a sticker with the VIN and some other info.
Post a picture of that. The DSO will point to whether it was sold in Cali.
And that will narrow the options to only one...

[ArdWrknTrk]

Cory mentions Scott Johnston, owner of Parkland Performance Auto Machine, advising 14* initial advance.

He is an engine masters participant and specializes in 385 series Fords. (Is it a 460 if it displaces 521 c.i.?)
Gary has one of his engines in Big Blue.

If you go to his site there is a walk through of how to recurve your distributor.
This is worth a look even* if you don't intend to do it, because it explains how the weights, springs, slots and vacuum determine the advance.

He also offers distributor tuning to your vehicle, or complete units with no core required.

http://parklandautomachine.com/products

[Gary Lewis]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Also note Gary's listing for body types.
We can assume E30, cutaway RV.

On the drivers door jamb will be a sticker with the VIN and some other info.
Post a picture of that. The DSO will point to whether it was sold in Cali.
And that will narrow the options to only one...

Bingo!  So if we have a pic of the certification label we can probably work out the Cali or not issue and know which of the calibration codes it is.  Then I can list that code.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Since I intend to swap my 4160 onto my truck today (in advance of the 18" of white gold Gary sent our way)
Perhaps I can document some of the steps.
At least I can take some pictures for you, and explain the process.

[26ftcobraBBF]

I'll see what I can find, I know for sure that the Cobra is in fact a Fed emissions vehicle not a California. Stay tuned..

On Wed, Dec 16, 2020, 4:49 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Also note Gary's listing for body types.
We can assume E30, cutaway RV.

On the drivers door jamb will be a sticker with the VIN and some other info.
Post a picture of that. The DSO will point to whether it was sold in Cali.
And that will narrow the options to only one...

Bingo!  So if we have a pic of the certification label we can probably work out the Cali or not issue and know which of the calibration codes it is.  Then I can list that code.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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[26ftcobraBBF]

These are all the stickers that are left. I found the one on the valve cover, but it's basically a white patch. Nothing visible on it. Must not have liked the degreaser. Hope this helps decipher what exactly I'm rolling.

On Wed, Dec 16, 2020, 4:49 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Also note Gary's listing for body types.
We can assume E30, cutaway RV.

On the drivers door jamb will be a sticker with the VIN and some other info.
Post a picture of that. The DSO will point to whether it was sold in Cali.
And that will narrow the options to only one...

Bingo!  So if we have a pic of the certification label we can probably work out the Cali or not issue and know which of the calibration codes it is.  Then I can list that code.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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[Gary Lewis]

You need to learn how to post your pics here so we can see them.  

Anyway, I put them below.  The first one is the best of the three as it is the certification label and characters 5 - 7 of the VIN tells us that it is an E30.  From that and the fact that you said it wasn't a Cali spec, it looks to me like it is calibration code 3-97J-R11, which is calibration parts list #390.  

And, here's what calibration parts list #390 has to say:

[26ftcobraBBF]

Wow your good at this, thank you so much. 

Sorry about the picture post, if you can tell what I'm doing wrong, I'll correct it. I'm replying through Gmail, and using the photos as an attachment.🤷

On Wed, Dec 16, 2020, 8:10 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

You need to learn how to post your pics here so we can see them.  

Anyway, I put them below.  The first one is the best of the three as it is the certification label and characters 5 - 7 of the VIN tells us that it is an E30.  From that and the fact that you said it wasn't a Cali spec, it looks to me like it is calibration code 3-97J-R11, which is calibration parts list #390.  

And, here's what calibration parts list #390 has to say:

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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[ArdWrknTrk]

The whole "through Gmail" thing comes with its own baggage.  (All the included reply garbage, headers, etc...)

Come to the forum itself and use the reply button in the header of someone's post you are replying to.

Then you need to use the 'insert image' button above the reply window.

It looks orange, like a sunset or something.

The forum won't accept large files, so you either need to compress the jpeg or (easier) select the 'Big Size' option and the forum will limit it to 750x750 for you.

There is a "how to post pictures" FAQ that might help you.


****The other day I suggested the hot idle compensator was added by the coachbuilder, but right there^^^^ it's included in the BOM for cutaway vans.
So, once again, my assumption is wrong.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So your distributor should be tagged E3HE-12127-HA

With a blue V-REST and one of four valves (two options in blk/grn and two in blk/brn)

That E3 number -or the F0 number- can decode into what slots, springs, weights and vacuum adjustment were used to assemble the distributor that came in the E30 chassis used to build your RV.

[26ftcobraBBF]

Ok thank you... I didn't get hardly any of that. Time to do some research. Is there an aftermarket distributor that you would recommend that would jive with my number code?

So would an aftermarket distributor have the tag you speak of? What's a V-rest? Also the valves mentioned what and where are they, and whats the difference between the two? Will I still have those valves if I'm completely de-smogged?

On Wed, Dec 16, 2020, 10:00 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

So your distributor should be tagged E3HE-12127-HA

With a blue V-REST and one of four valves (two options in blk/grn and two in blk/brn)

That E3 number -or the F0 number- can decode into what slots, springs, weights and vacuum adjustment were used to assemble the distributor that came in the E30 chassis used to build your RV.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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[ArdWrknTrk]

An aftermarket distributor won't have any tag because it hasn't been optimized for any specific vehicle to meet federally mandated emissions restrictions...

On a stock 460, manifold vacuum goes to a colored thermal switch on the thermostat housing.
Under regular operation the vacuum is ported through a tiny plastic Vacuum Restriction to the distributor advance.(blue plastic 'flag' in the line)
In an overheating condition the valve (yellow on my engine) switches to an unrestricted mode and sends full manifold vacuum to the advance, stepping up idle speed.
Which makes the fan suck more air through the radiator and the water pump turn faster, in an attempt to cool the engine.

I don't have the "decoding book" in front of me, so unfortunately I can't tell you.
Perhaps Gary can give you their parameters.

As Cory and I alluded to, you can get a distributor custom curved to your application by Scotty at Parkland Performance.
He is one of the best 460 builders in the industry.
Gary has an engine built by him.
A number of us use his distributors.
It's not cheap, but it is $60 LESS than a DUI distributor that I feel is not tuned as well one of Scott's.

I'm online now making a thread for you showing how I set up my 4160 today.
Pics showing the adjustments and how it's done.
I got a little sidetracked this afternoon with 16-18" of snow coming down tonight through tomorrow.
But I have to post from my phone because those pics aren't synced to the cloud yet.

It's a bit tedious, so please bear with me as I edit pictures into the various posts and refine the verbiage so it makes sense to someone like you who hasn't been doing it for 50 years.
I hope it becomes self explanatory and if you still have questions when I'm done, feel free to address them in that thread.

[26ftcobraBBF]

That's very thoughtful of you, thank you I'm looking forward to seeing your setup.

I'll look into the distributor, I wish I knew exactly how much better one of Parklands would perform, or exactly how bad my current is underperforming.

For a de-smogged 460, and with the card I got directions said to use the spark port on the carb for the Vacuum advance, should I be using the thermal vacuum switch instead?

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020, 12:24 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

An aftermarket distributor won't have any tag because it hasn't been optimized for any specific vehicle to meet federally mandated emissions restrictions...

On a stock 460, manifold vacuum goes to a colored thermal switch on the thermostat housing.
Under regular operation the vacuum is ported through a tiny plastic Vacuum Restriction to the distributor advance.(blue plastic 'flag' in the line)
In an overheating condition the valve (yellow on my engine) switches to an unrestricted mode and sends full manifold vacuum to the advance, stepping up idle speed.
Which makes the fan suck more air through the radiator and the water pump turn faster, in an attempt to cool the engine.

I don't have the "decoding book" in front of me, so unfortunately I can't tell you.
Perhaps Gary can give you their parameters.

As Cory and I alluded to, you can get a distributor custom curved to your application by Scotty at Parkland Performance.
He is one of the best 460 builders in the industry.
Gary has an engine built by him.
A number of us use his distributors.
It's not cheap, but it is $60 LESS than a DUI distributor that I feel is not tuned as well one of Scott's.

I'm online now making a thread for you showing how I set up my 4160 today.
Pics showing the adjustments and how it's done.
I got a little sidetracked this afternoon with 16-18" of snow coming down tonight through tomorrow.
But I have to post from my phone because those pics aren't synced to the cloud yet.

It's a bit tedious, so please bear with me as I edit pictures into the various posts and refine the verbiage so it makes sense to someone like you who hasn't been doing it for 50 years.
I hope it becomes self explanatory and if you still have questions when I'm done, feel free to address them in that thread.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

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[ArdWrknTrk]

Lots of people use the 'timed vacuum' port on their carburetor.
And in some ways it's best, especially with an automatic.

But I am trying to describe how Ford set it up from the factory, since that is what you have been asking about.
And the "factory" calibrated distributor is set to use restricted manifold vacuum switching to full manifold vacuum if it starts overheating.

I can't say how much better one of Scott's distributors would be.
I have no way of knowing what components yours is assembled from or how it's working for you now.

My truck is desmogged and I'm still using the thermal switch.
But im not dictating to anyone else.
There's a lot I can learn or improve.
And that's the great thing about these forums!  

[Gary Lewis]

On the replying via Gmail thing, you may have missed what Jim said.  But that is causing two problems.  First, you cannot post pics that way and that causes the rest of us to have to go look at your pics elsewhere - and not many are willing to do that so it limits your helpers.

Second, it brings a LOT of garbage into your posts and that makes your threads much more difficult to navigate than is needed, and that may also limit your helpers.  I've included a screen snag of one of your recent posts and circled the garbage that comes via Gmail - or replying via any email system for that matter - and you can easily see that it takes up 2/3 of the post.

It is your call, but the much better approach is to click on the link included in the email right below the text that reads "If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:"  That will bring you to the forum itself and you can then click the Reply button and include pics in your replies.  And, not have the garbage included in your posts.