Poncho Loco build thread, yes here it is ...

[ArdWrknTrk]

There are different venturi sizes available.
All the way up to 1.31 or something like that.

Additionally, are you aware that 2V & 4V carburetors are flow rated differently?
That's right. Two entirely different pressure drops are used to determine flow.
https://fordsix.com/threads/a-list-of-autolite-motorcraft-2100-2150-carb-flow-rates.41010/

[Gary Lewis]

Right.  This article in The Carburetor Shop might help.  But the bottom line is that 1 & 2 bbl carbs are rated at 3" of vacuum anf 4 bbl carbs are rated at 1.5" of vacuum.  So to convert a 2 bbl's rating to compare to a 4 bbl you multiply the 2 bbl rating by .707.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Or 1.41 going the other way.

[RenoHuskerDu]

Gary Lewis wrote

Right.  This article in The Carburetor Shop might help.  But the bottom line is that 1 & 2 bbl carbs are rated at 3" of vacuum anf 4 bbl carbs are rated at 1.5" of vacuum.  So to convert a 2 bbl's rating to compare to a 4 bbl you multiply the 2 bbl rating by .707.

I read that article and felt the need to grow a second face so I could do double facepalms...what a mess. And it seems moot in my application.

So... a 300cfm 2v would be rated at 212cfm (300/1.141) were it a 4v.  But because a 2v carb on a 351cid engine is most likely going to maintain 3" of mercury minimum, that 4v figure seems moot.

Back a few posts, @ArdWrknTrk suggested "one of the 2100-2150 knockoffs that you can get for $100 outright" and that is looking great right now, considering budget. But how much fab will be required for linkages?

[ArdWrknTrk]

There's a variety of these carbs on the market.
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Performance-Carburetor-2100-Ford/dp/B074KYWXW7/ref=pd_di_sccai_5/140-7859641-3584234?pd_rd_w=7H90T&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=MJZEX753C8EM4TQ11QCN&pd_rd_r=a2ff03c2-5012-4ba3-89a0-d5eceae24f2b&pd_rd_wg=gz3mP&pd_rd_i=B074KYWXW7&psc=1
Most intended for various Ford applications, and a few for Jeeps or AMC products.

I haven't taken a deep dive into eBay, Amazon, Bangood, or the other suspects.
I just see them and hear stories.

What linkages would you need?
Is there a transmission kick-down to swap over?  
Speed control?
I think you want to be mindful of where the fuel nipple is.
But otherwise it's going to be a 'clone' of an Autolite/Motorcraft carb from the '70's or early '80's.

Fit the same intakes, use the same gaskets and air cleaner, etc...

[RenoHuskerDu]

>What linkages would you need?
>Is there a transmission kick-down to swap over?  
>Speed control?

It's a 4sp stick so no kickdown needed. It does have cruise but its status is unknown. Should it work that would be icing on the cake. So basically, throttle is the main need.  

The plus with Bezoszon is that return is easy as pie, given Prime membership. I do believe I'll use that link you sent.  Thank you.

[RenoHuskerDu]

The story of Poncho Loco. Interspicing a little narrative with the build thread....

The boys (my sons) are all over FB Marketplace. I can't stand it. One afternoon they were excited as all get out and asked me to borrow the 28' car hauler. I said OK as long as I could go with, knowing that boys will be boys.

On the way they said they'd found an excellent donor truck for our other Bullnoses, and they'd talked the seller down from $1200 to $900.  Somehow, I heard $600. I have Scottish genes.

We pulled up, and the truck was buried back in the weeds behind the shop, up the hill, hard to access, neglected. But I spotted straight body panels right away, a solid dash and like-new adjustable steering column. A spare front bumper and spare straight hood were in the line-x'd bed. Sweet.

After we tried to crank it and all that happened was make the lug on the starter relay turn red hot, I offered $600. He hemmed and hawed a bit, not ready to take it.  We turned the motor over with a wrench so saw it was not locked up. I suspected the starter.

Then suddenly he said OK you guys were the first and you put all this work into it, it's getting dark,  so you can have it for $600.  He also mentioned that he thinks the tailgate alone is worth that much. Pic  below for your opinion. At that point he mentioned that he started with $1200, and I apologized for misunderstanding that the previously agreed price was in fact $900. But he was a decent man, acknowledged that we could not spin it with the starter, and stuck with $600.

So that's the story of how we got such a solid F150 4x4 for only $600. Of course we haven't fired up the motor yet, but it's allegedly been rebuilt. As us old farts know, that could mean anything from new valve cover gaskets and a rattle can, to a full machine shop job. We'll find out.

As noted in other posts, my daughter took a shine to Poncho Loco, so he won't be a parts truck at all.

The mystery tailgate. I haven't seen one quite like this before. We think the truck was originally XLT.

[Gary Lewis]

That's a cool story!  And a good looking truck.  But I don't think you stole it.  I've purchased several non-running trucks from $200 to $600.  And I wouldn't pay over the $600 unless it was a very special truck, like an XLS with all the bits that go with it.

As for the tailgate, that doesn't look like a special one.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I just pulled a carb out of a hat, as an example.

As the listing says ' make sure you compare this item to what you have, and all features are correct for your application'

I can't say what you need.
I can't say what you've got.
And, I can't say what that truck came with from the factory.


Like I said to Jonathan, be sure to open it up and flush out any oil that they may have flooded it with to stave off corrosion in shipping or storage.
My experience with these things is a decade old by now, so maybe things have changed, IDK.

[salans7]

The tailgate with trim panel looks no different than what I had on my 1980 F150 Ranger Lariat, it's what came on the 80-84 XLT and Lariat trucks.

[RenoHuskerDu]

Pulled that carb and took a good look at it. It's a Holley indeed.  Bores are about 1.68" diameter. No smog crapola on it, just throttle and electric choke pull-off.  A candidate for rebuild, methinks.

I did find hits about R6350B, and a supplier of rebuild kits. But we don't have a dip tank or ultrasonic. As a teen, I remember taking mine to a hot rod shop guy with a dip tank.

What's required these days to properly rebuild a dirty old carb? It is nasty, as you see in the pics. Mice poop in there too. Hilarious side note: Eldest son the full time mechanic has never touched a carb...or points.

Anybody know the CFM of a Holley R6350B carb?

Update: Just watched a Holley company video, so I found the list number and added that pic. 4412-5

[RenoHuskerDu]

2nd son came and said "Papa, I can't find the coil..."

Anybody know what retrofit dizzy this might be?  Later model Ford?  The coil is in the cap, as I recall.

Not a bad surprise to find this. Looks new inside too.  
Note vacuum advance nipple is capped. Hmmm

[salans7]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313521096890?epid=1117872059&hash=item48ff5048ba:g:TecAAOSwVgVgzhJe

[ArdWrknTrk]

The first thing I see is the mouse trap!  

That HEI needs the vacuum hooked up.
Somebody probably installed it and never finished.

Generic blue HEI dizzy's were available from a number of different distributors but probably all come out of the same Chinese factory.

I've pointed people to Skip White for their installation instructions, after trying to explain to them that they can't just use the old coil wire, and need a relay and 12Ga. power wire.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, HEI.  Works, but if you are going to break into double digits on the MPG you'll need vacuum advance.

On the carb, I use O'Reilly's brake cleaner.  Seems to be about as good as carb cleaner, and is a lot better than some brands of cleaners.  I put it in a pan and spray the thing down.  Then use a nylon brush about the size of a toothbrush to clean it.  BUT, keep the cleaner away from the plastic parts, like the float.

But I know nothing about that specific carb.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Post a closeup of the list and build numbers stamped on the front of the choke horn.  (I missed that when I first scrolled through your post on my phone..  )

4412-5 is a model 2300 carb, 500 CFM.
I think I suggested a 4412-2300 back on the first page of this thread.  

If you want jetting and the numbers for Holley rebuild kits go to the numerical listing pdf on Holley's tech pages.

[RenoHuskerDu]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Post a closeup of the list and build numbers stamped on the front of the choke horn.  (I missed that when I first scrolled through your post on my phone..  )

4412-5 is a model 2300 carb, 500 CFM.
I think I suggested a 4412-2300 back on the first page of this thread.  

If you want jetting and the numbers for Holley rebuild kits go to the numerical listing pdf on Holley's tech pages.

The date code means the 24th week of 2016? I'm pleased that it's 500 cfm.

[ArdWrknTrk]

No. 4 digit codes are the day of the year + year
Yours was made the 162 day of '74, '84, '94, 'OR 04,

[RenoHuskerDu]

We have rebuilt the Holley carb with a kit from Summit. Bro and sis working together. He's a full time wrench but has never before touched a carb. These young folks these days, I tell ya ...

Noticed on reinstalling it that the wiring harness to the ECU under the driver seat also includes needed feeds for oil  pressure, tach, and coolant temp. Sis had yanked the whole harness, oops. Wrench son is currently taking the harness apart to leave only the wires we need. One wire seems to be coolant temp to the EGR. It's dark out there, that kid is a night owl, and I'm going horizontal any minute. We're deleting EGR anyway. No legal requirement in this state at this vehicle age.

Which brings me to an EGR blockoff plate question. We were told this is a 351 but just in case, does a 302 EGR blockoff plate also fit a 351?  The listings in fleabay stop in the 90s. This truck is a 1982, built in May 92

[ArdWrknTrk]

The easiest way to tell a 351 from a 302 is where the timing cover water port boss passes to the block.
If it is almost flush to the deck the engine is 302. If there is about an inch of space from the head, (1.3" more for the 351) that shows the taller -9.5"- deck of a 351....





(Pics from Summit where I looked up the following....)

Since the Fel-Pro 70020 EGR gasket fits all 73-96 5.0 and 77-91 5.8l Windsors I would say it's a safe bet the block off plates are the same, even though the EGR valve itself may have changed or be different for different displacements.