No control power to starter solenoid 84 f150 and ECM Delete

[Topshooter28]

Good afternoon everybody. Trying to run down a problem. I have a 84 f150 351w with the variable venturi cab set up which I plan to swap out to an aluminum intake, and 600 holley. Smog has already been deleted by the previous owner. I have 2 questions.

1. What all is needed to make the truck run again once I take the ECM out. MSD? Pertronix? Ive read about a duraspark conversion, If thats the best route, can anyone tell me what years to buy the distributor and ignition from.

2. The previous owner said after the smog delete the drove the truck quiet a bit, and then one day it just wouldnt try to crank. I replaced the ignition switch on the colunm under the dash, Replaced the solenoid and I can jump it across. but my red/Light blue has no control power from the switch. I have it leaving the switch. I have it going into a 2 wire seems to be an in/out port above the E-brake pedal. Is it tied to the ECM some where? Anybody ever had this problem. Truck will spin over jumping across, But nothing when you turn the key.

What am I missing?

[Gary Lewis]

Afternoon!  Hope you are having a good day.

On the ignition, a DS-II distributor for a 1985 or 1985 351HO will work for you as those use the blue grommet ignition modules, which you'd also have to buy.  However, I'm not 100% sure that your wiring harness is set up to take that.  I believe it is as I think Ford used the same main harness for all the trucks and just changed the engine harness, but lets see what others say.

However, an HEI distributor would be easy to use.  You have a large yellow wire near the brake booster that probably isn't being used, and it has always-on power that you can use for the HEI.  But, you'd have to wire up a relay that would be triggered by the key-on wire in the harness near there.  Are you ok to wire up a relay?  If not we'd better stick with DS-II.

On the lack of cranking with the key, it sounds like the neutral start circuit is open.  And I think that "in/out port" is the issue.  That is probably C128 and should go to the neutral safety switch, as shown below.  Stick a small fuse in that connector and see if it starts.  If so that's the problem.  You didn't say if your truck is manual or auto, but the manuals have a jumper in there and the autos have two wires going down to the transmission.

[Topshooter28]

73880137259__8A9B2B33-0687-4CDC-8417-2060EB57B623.MOV

I don’t have a problem wiring a relay in no sir. It is an automatic but has the jumper in the port I mentioned earlier

[Topshooter28]

IMG_0762.jpeg

[Gary Lewis]

My misunderstanding.  I didn't realize there is a jumper in there.  But it still won't start?  Since you should power to that connector then you apparently have a break in the wire from there out to the starter relay.

However, you said earlier that when you "jump across it" the engine will start.  But what do you mean by "jump across it"?  Have you tried using a small jumper from the battery terminal to the little terminal where the R/LB wire attaches?

As for the ignition, I'll find you a wiring diagram for the relay for an HEI system...

[Gary Lewis]

For the wiring go to the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then go to the Ignition Simplification tab followed by the One Wire tab.

[mat in tn]

I second the recommendation for the ignition from an 85/86 351w h.o.. the hei is simple yet it is a compromise. I have used both and have two trucks hei at this time. both are 5.0 but have done 5.8 also. the last 5.8w I did use the duraspark II setup and was not only happier with the look, but it just ran as it is supposed to and without the bulky dist. right up front. which means possibly dealing with carb and air cleaner fitment. since fall we have had at least three of the hei's fail. it is always "customers choice" but we try to deter the use of them anymore.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good point Mat.

I know that with the 460 some HEI's foul the water neck, especially if all three thermal vacuum switches are in place.

As for the no crank, first try it in Neutral, and then definitely use a paperclip to jump to the (S) terminal of the relay.
The fender relay may not be pulling in, and you won't find that if you just use a wrench to connect the battery stud to the starter cable.

It may be that the gear position/reverse light switch is bad or out of adjustment, but let's start with the very easy stuff.

Also, check the clutch jumper.
Corrosion and crap can make for very bad contact.
A little Deoxit D5 and working the jumper (or a spare fuse) in and out will clean it up.  😉

[Topshooter28]

Will this harness work with Duraspark II?

[Topshooter28]

I have to power to the solenoid on the red/blue. I can jump it from the positive to the start terminal and it turn over. I have power at the plug under the dash on both sides. Where does it feed to after it leaves this point befor going to the fender well starter solenoid?

[Topshooter28]

Jumping from the positive post on the battery side of the starter solenoid to the S terminal.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ford trucks are set up for both EEC IV AND DS-II.
The DS-II plugs will be folded back and taped into the harness.

The clutch jumper goes to the reverse/gear switch on the side of the transmission, and then to the starter relay.
That's why I said try it in Neutral, or try to jumper the plug at the transmission.

Do you understand how to use the EVTM?
It has all the troubleshooting spelled out for you.

[ArdWrknTrk]

This should get you close. Gary doesn't have an '84 up on the site but they are pretty much the same, except there was no option for 5.0 EFI in '84.
https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start--ignition-gasoline-engines.html

Troubleshooting is at the end of the chapter.
Let us know if you can't get it figured out.