New member, Hello!

[Tommy_Tunes]

NE of Seattle, unincorporated King County in the trees!
Gifted an 86 F150 4sp manual, 68k or 168k? Ha. It needed resurrection: trans rebuild, SPROUT cleaned so it would accelerate (one reason the previous owner got sick of it, easy fix!). And numerous maintenance work to get it ready ready, so NOT 'free' any more...
Anyway, loving it, now chasing a parasitic battery drain, so I'll be seeing ya.

[Gary Lewis]

Tommy - Welcome!  Glad you joined.  

Sounds like a good "gift".  Glad you got it going, but I'll bet their will be many layers to this onion.  And you'll have enough onion rings to have a Bloomin' Onion when you are done.  

Would you like to be on our map?  You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and all we'll need is a zip.

[grumpin]

Welcome!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welcome Tommy!  

I'd be interested to see if it's just the alternator, and which kind of alternator you have in an '86

[Gary Lewis]

Should be a 2G for an '86, but who knows what's on it now.

[ArdWrknTrk]

When I look on RockAuto for an '86 F-pickup I see 60A and 70A with external regulator, and 65A with internal regulator.....



Either way it is the first place to check when you have substantial parasitic draw.

[Tommy_Tunes]

Sure, it says I can't add myself, so 98072 Woodinville Washington

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, you can't add yourself.  But I've added you.  

[Tommy_Tunes]

I've unplugged the 2 wiring plugs at the alternator- test light from negative peg to ground wire still glows.
I'm hoping to find fuel pump cutoff relays, but the pic sent to me isn't what physically exists under my hood!
Tips??Screenshot_20221120_152305.jpg

[Gary Lewis]

The fuel pump relay can be in that bracket, but can also be by itself on the firewall.  And part of that is determined by whether or not you have the camper or trailer package.

As for the parasitic draw, if the test light is on with the alternator disconnected - and the door closed - you should start pulling fuses to see which one turns it off.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Can you hear the pump running?
Or a relay clicking when you reconnect the battery (or connect your test light)

[Tommy_Tunes]

Yes, touching the new negative cable to the post causes a 1 second buzz/hum at the black wiring cover at the firewall. Priming?
No, can't hear fuel pumps running.
---> need a step stool to get high enough to reach down to that cover, hope it pops off easy?

[ArdWrknTrk]

(remove a bunch of links that didn't work )

The EEC relay should be getting power at all times through fuse link N on circuit 37
But only be closed by the ignition switch in Start and Run.

........

The pump relay gets triggered by the ESC through ZZ

.........

The fuel pump relay is definitely under that cover as pictured on Pg. 107.
But the EEC shouldn't be able to activate it with the ignition Off.
If it does, that would suggest your ignition switch is mis-wired or has failed hot.  😳
If it is shorted, or the EEC is pulling power through it without the ignition key ON it will kill the battery.

(and ,  the forum insert image tab is not working for me this morning.

Edit for clarity....

[Tommy_Tunes]

That's a lot of info.
Now my brain hurts. 😉
I'll go through it again and try to filter it down to what I should be laying my hands on.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm going to try and edit the links into images today. Hopefully the forum is working better for me!  

The EEC relay should be getting power at all times through fuse link N on circuit 37
But only be closed by the ignition switch in Start and Run. (circuit 20)













The pump relay gets triggered by the ESC through ZZ







The fuel pump relay is definitely under that cover as pictured in 471462...
But the EEC shouldn't be able to activate it with the ignition Off.
If it does, that would suggest your ignition switch is mis-wired or has failed hot.  😳
If it is shorted, or the EEC is pulling power through it without the ignition key ON it will kill the battery.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I would check that the EEC power relay (illustration Pg.60) is only getting pulled in by circuit 20 in run & start.

The fuel relay shouldn't be pulling closed with the key off, but battery connected.

Edit: look at the self test connector on Pg. 62 and be sure that isn't jumpered or otherwise connected and back feeding the system.

[Tommy_Tunes]

Thanks for that!!!
I should have time tomorrow to pull it into the garage.