New Owner in WA State.

[Abletobecain]

Hello all and thanks for the add.

This is my first post here, and my first diesel truck. I've always loved older Fords...had a 1975 Bronco Sport a while back...still regret selling it. Not a truck but my dad gave me his 69 Montego MX Convertible too...I'll be driving her from NC to WA in May.

Anyway, I just picked up a 1986 F250 XLT 6.9 IDI 2WD Auto three days ago. 187k on the clock (I think...definitely not 87k like the guy was trying to say but based on interior wear and general condition I don't think it's 287k either).

Brief list of issues I've found with it so far:

Busted windshield (getting replaced tomorrow),
Busted passenger mirror,
No tailgate,
No spare tire,
Was missing driver's front fender chrome (got it from the yard yesterday),
Minor interior imperfections (small headliner tear, cracked drivers arm pad),
Hanging sun visors,
Door unlock works but lock does not,
Passenger window switch does not work but drivers switch controls both,
Stock radio/tape player needs some tweaking,
Weak blower motor (heats nicely but doesn't push much air),
Crack around blower speed selector (might not be going to high?),
A/C not functioning,
Parking brake moves but does not lock,
C6 (I think it's a C6) shifts pretty hard,
Steering is incredible sloppy (going to rebuild the gearbox),
Rear tank is disconnected,
Gas gauge does not function (Guy said it just needs to be hooked up after the rear tank is finished).
There's a bit of air in the fuel line right near the relief valve but it's above the bleeder.

That being said, all the fluids looked good, although I couldn't get SCA test strips in time. No obvious major leaks.
The motor runs great, started instantly from cold, restarted instantly after getting up to operating temp then cooling for 20 mins.
He sounds like a champ, moves well, and feels really solid. With nearly new Toyo Open Country M+S's and black Basset style steelies, I feel like I stole him @ $1,230 (haggled to $1,250 but he the seller put $20 of diesel in right before the test drive)! My dog seems to like him too! :)



Gonna fix some things on it and leave others alone. Gonna put collector plates on him...I got him just to pull a trailer, move to my new house, dump runs, home supplies, and the occasional tow of some 80's 4WD Tercel Wagons.

This is my first diesel so I'll likely be posting a lot of questions soon...Just wanted to say hi!

Also, if anyone has links to any free manuals wither for the truck or the 6.9 I'd really appreciate it.

[fords4life]

Nice looking rig and welcome.  Lots of great info and knowledgeable folks around here.

[Gary Lewis]

Welcome!  Glad you joined.  

What part of Washington?  I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on if I had a city/town.

And, nice truck.  Good price!  We are in awe of what is available in the PNW.

But, on the windshield make sure they put the right one on.  The later windshields fit but the VIN was moved and they obscure the VIN on Bullnose truck.  That may not seem like a problem, but it isn't legal and can certainly cause problems when/if you sell.  Don't ask.  

On the manuals, I'd recommend the factory shop manuals.  They aren't cheap but are very good.  Having said that, a lot of what you need is probably already on this site, and more goes on frequently.  For instance:

Documentation/Engine/IDI Diesel: The factory shop manual section on that engine.

Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/C6: The factory shop manual section on that transmission.

Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM: The Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual has all of the wiring diagrams broken up into systems that are much easier to read than the large schematics.

And that is really just touching the hem of the garment, as there's lots more Ford documentation buried deeply in the Documentation section.  

[grumpin]

Welcome!

[1986F150Six]

Welcome!

[Abletobecain]

Hey Gary...I've been going through all of the documents on this site. Really great stuff! Thanks so much. I think I've found everything I need.

Even found some answers to questions I didn't know I had...I had no idea what that thing was mounted to the inside of the hood...turns out it's a really sweet light!

Got the windshield in...I'll have to check about it obscuring the vin.

I think I sourced a sliding rear window for $30 too!

I am planning on a manual switch for my glow plugs...I think my controller may be bad. It starts right up when it's cold or hot but if it's been sitting a few hours the WTS light won't come on but the engine temp light does.

Is there anything I should be wary of when putting in a manual switch? It seems pretty straight forward and I'm planning on using two switches in line...a hidden on/off toggle that will send power to a dash mounted push button switch that I will have to hold down to heat up the plugs.

Last question...do most glow plugs use the same connection? There's no 6.9s at my local yard so I'm planning on nabbing the connectors from a different rig and building the harness.

Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

I'm glad you are finding what you need in the way of documentation.  But I'm afraid I don't know much about the IDI's so can't say about the connectors or manual switches.  However there are others on here that know the IDI's literally inside and out, so I'm sure they'll be along soon.

Hope the windshield lets you see the VIN.  And that was a good score on the sliding rear window.  

[Ford F834]

Welcome! I like your truck 😎. On your glow plugs, first identity what you have (since it is 34 years old and not necessarily all original).

The 83-86 glow plug system controller threads into the cylinder head next to the firewall, the relay is on the passenger fender, and the plugs have a flat spade connector and are meant for 12v input. The 87-94 system is a solid state box mounted to the intake manifold behind the air cleaner and has the relay bolted directly to the top of it. There is a Z strap that reduces the glow plug input voltage to around 6v. These have the round bullet connectors. The main thing you don’t really want to do is run late style plugs with an early controller without the Z strap. The guy who sold me my 86 had done just that and it didn’t end well...

The 83-86 glow plug controller is flawed. When the controller fails, it often fails in the “on” condition and burns out all of the glow plugs. When they burn out the tips may swell, especially the infamous autolites. They can swell to the degree that they will not fit out of the hole in the cylinder head, and if you try the tip can break off and fall down into the the precombistion chamber and work its way into the cylinder. You then need to pull the engine and remove the head. Many owners just cross their fingers and run the engine and hope the piston pounds up the chunk of glow plug small enough for it to “pass” out of the exhaust valve like a kidney stone. So when people say don’t use the early 6.9 controller this is why. This is also the reason for the strong  recommendation to use OEM Beru/Motorcraft glow plugs ZD1’s are 83-86 spade connector type, ZD9’s are 87-94 IDI bullet connector type, ZD11’s are for powerstrokes.

The easiest way to wire manual plugs is to take a 12v hot and run it to a push button or momentary toggle switch, and run the switched side to the existing relay to power the glow plugs. It’s fairly non invasive and you will see the glow plug/wait to start lamp light op when you operate the momentary switch. You will loose the after glow function that turns the plugs on and off after start up to reduce smoke.

If it starts up cold or hot but not after it has been sitting, then it sounds more like air intrusion than glow plugs... but you said you do not get the glow plug wait to start lamp. So yes, it very well could be the controller. The temperature sensor for the controller is the glow plug resistance themselves. This is why the 87-94 system will not glow long enough if there is a bad plug in the circuit. The controller reads the dead plug and thinks the engine is hot. This is still better than failing in the “on” condition. Hopefully this is helpful. A manual switch or upgrade to the later GP set up should be high on you list for dependability.

[Abletobecain]

The VIN is not covered up...got the right windshield!

[Abletobecain]

Thanks for the info F834.

I pulled a plug a few days ago and I can't identify what they are. I'm ordering some ZD1's very soon.

I'm pretty sure I have the original controller...it's a cylindrical thing that screws into the head with a cap and some wires coming out of it and goes to the relay on the passenger fender. Can I make a new harness that's run to the relay and momentary switch so I completely bypass the controller? I'm also considering putting two switches inline...a toggle to turn on the momentary switch. I have no key for the truck so an extra hidden switch is a good idea I think. I was also wondering if not having a key could be affecting the WTS light. Additionally, the WTS light stays on for 2-3 minutes after I start the truck.

I definitely have some air intrusion...I can see some bubbles in the clear line off of the filter. I am planning on trying to crack some injectors and bleed the system. I'm not sure if it will help though as my rear tank has a pinhole and it appears that the line going to it has been cut or something. Maybe I'm missing the tank selector valve...I'm going to look for it tomorrow. There's an electric pump mounted on the inside of the frame near the midship tank too.

Thanks for your help.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad the VIN isn't covered.  

Hope you get the fuel problem as well as the glow plugs/controller sorted quickly.

[Ford F834]

Your description is that of the original, old style controller. This one is extremely easy to convert to manual push button:



You can suit yourself regarding a second kill switch, but if it were me I would look into getting the key switch working. The glow plug momentary switch does not have to use “switched” power but it is recommended.

If your controller is actually powering the glow plugs for 2-3 minutes after staring the engine as the lamp would indicate, this is extremely BAD. Anything over 15 seconds is not recommended.

I am guessing the electric fuel pump was added as a band aid to fix air intrusion. It’s not entirely a bad thing since the return rail system is so leak prone, but it does not negate the fact that you need to fix any leaks in the system. Particularly the injector o rings and return rail hoses. The return hose from the fuel filter head to the engine return line system isn’t necessary. It is the highest point in the fuel system, therefore the most prone to introducing air if the hose leaks. Cap it off at the fuel filter head and let the rest of the return flow through the injector return rail harness. Running rough and surging signals air intrusion. Reduced diesel clatter, low power, and stalling out is an obstructed return system (backpressure retards injection timing).