I didn't think of that. I know where it should be, but I can't find it. Can you help me find it?
Rob F.
1985 4x4 4.9 i6 NP435, HEI distributor, smog delete, Clifford intake, twin Weber 38/38s. |
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Look at the 1st and 2nd photo of this eBay ad. It is to between the EGR valve and the rear of the engine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Manifold-4-9L-6-300-Fits-77-78-80-86-FORD-E350-VAN-666586/143559706231?fits=Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A4.9L%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item216cd34677:g:1bIAAOSwGFVec83R It looks kind of like this one, but is longer with a few more ports. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1986-Ford-Escort-1-9L-Intake-Manifold-Vacuum-Fitting-E6FZ-9A474-G/163818440343?epid=17003044832&hash=item2624570697:g:A0AAAOSwjvxdSrGD |
In reply to this post by 1986F150Six
Wow, you were right. I had one on the vaccum tree that I couldn't see. Smoke test revealed it pretty quickly. Smoke test revealed a couple of other leaks, so I've got all of that taken care of. Now if I can find the "advance plug" that needs to be removed so I can time it properly, I should be on the right track. I've looked online for the location, I mine is obviously not where it should be, if I have one at all. Any help with that?
Rob F.
1985 4x4 4.9 i6 NP435, HEI distributor, smog delete, Clifford intake, twin Weber 38/38s. |
In reply to this post by 1986F150Six
Oh, I got the vacuum tree. I was referring to the "advance plug" you're supposed to remove before you time it.
Rob F.
1985 4x4 4.9 i6 NP435, HEI distributor, smog delete, Clifford intake, twin Weber 38/38s. |
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If I'm reading the 1985 EVTM correctly you're looking for wire 324.
It is yellow/light green dashed, and Connector 109 is near the computer module, past where the cable sheath is grounded. Someone else with more 4.9l experience may correct me. But I believe 324 is the SPark OUT circuit (at least from the notes an the end of the engine control section)
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by nilknarf007
I think Jim is right, but I sure can't find something that says definitively. Not even in the shop manual.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by nilknarf007
See if you can open this link? The SPOUT can be seen in this photo.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v361/Wisdumb00/spout.jpg |
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Since that's on Photobucket, which seems to have a hole in it, let's put it here:
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Thank you, Gary. Have a nice weekend!
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The carburetor most likely has, in the past, been adjusted to run with all the extra air [vacuum leaks] coming in. It will require some adjustments to run correctly.
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
I found the yellow/light green wire, and followed into the cable sheath, then followed that sheath along it's entire length. There's no place for that SPark OUT plug. Can I just disconntect the plug where the yellow/light green wire terminates?
Rob F.
1985 4x4 4.9 i6 NP435, HEI distributor, smog delete, Clifford intake, twin Weber 38/38s. |
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I don't know if you disconnect it or ground it. Does someone know?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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This post was updated on .
Just disconnect it. Early EEC is all PS, and will run on PIP signal. The connector (not plug) should be nearer the computer, not the distributor. This changed to a SPark OUT jumper plug for '86, if the EVTM is to be believed.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Thanks for all your help guys. To sum up, I fixed all the vacuum leaks, and that made the idle very smooth. I timed it to 10 degrees, and it ran like a new truck. BUT, the idle was too high and it was hard to get the engine to turn over. I backed the timing back down to 4 degrees, it idles a little lower, but now it really lacks power like in the beginning, and since there's no timing advance happening electronically, I made a decision.
I have a non-feedback carb and a new ignition with vacuum advance on the way. Hopefully I will give a full follow-up middle of next week.
Rob F.
1985 4x4 4.9 i6 NP435, HEI distributor, smog delete, Clifford intake, twin Weber 38/38s. |
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You aren't able to use the curb idle screw to set it at 600rpm, or whatever a 4.9l calls for?
Do you still have the vacuum routing/emissions calibration sticker on the radiator support? If so, could you post a picture?
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
I got the new YF carb in today. I was able to get the idle down to 700 rpm. Only took about 30 minutes to change them out. So, my next question will hopefully not cause me too much trouble.
On the product description of the carb, it said that the oil channels will be blocked and I need to clean them out before installation. I did a cursory search on the internet and found nothing on the subject. In my inpatience, I installed it anyway. I have a consistant miss up to about 2700 rpm, where it begins to fire on all six. But since I rarely get it up to that rpm with normal driving, I'd like to solve this problem, and my assumption is that it has something to do with the oil channels, although I have no idea what that means. I still had the vacuum sticker, and here's the picture of it.
Rob F.
1985 4x4 4.9 i6 NP435, HEI distributor, smog delete, Clifford intake, twin Weber 38/38s. |
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I can't imagine any oil channels in a YF carb, or the 300-6 intake manifold.
There was no other explanation? I have seen Chinese carbs come with a float bowl full of oil that needs rinsed out. Better than corrosion, I guess.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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I agree. Pretty sure no oil channels in a YF. But if there's oil in the bowl that will take some time to wash out.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by nilknarf007
If you can't stall the engine with the idle stop I'm thinking you might/must have a intake leak.
It seems unreasonable that a 300 won't chug right along, but as I said I'm not the 300 expert. That would be down to Dave & David
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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The continued high idle does indicate a vacuum leak. Try the smoke test, again.
10 degrees BTDC should not cause hard starting. Mine is @ 16-17 degrees BTDC with no starting difficulty. The harmonic balancer ring may have shifted. Using a vacuum gauge, see what is indicated @ idle speed. It should be approaching 20" Hg. And, if you do have a miss, it likely will be seen as a twitch/jerk in the needle of the vacuum gauge. Going to 4 degrees BTDC will definitely cause sluggish performance, especially since with the original distributor, there is no advancing of the timing at higher RPMs. |
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