New Air Compressor

[Danny G]

So the air compressor came Ina week late.  Got it home and box off, through the house, into the garage only to find the air filter damaged... No biggie I'll get a new one... Then noticed the entire pump has been smashed.

Called Lowe's they are going to pick it up for me. No way I can get it back on the pallet because the carriage bolts spun. And I'm not lifting 400lbs back onto my trailer.








I can get this Ingersoll Rand tomorrow for 15% off at TSC. Mixed reviews don't know much about the brand. It's two stage and a whopping 15.8 cfm at 90psi. Some complaints about massive start up draw of around 50amps.





The other option appear to be Dewalts version of the PC unit. 7 days until it gets here but probably slightly better quality than the PC unit. I'll get 11.5% off this one.



Help me choose.

[FuzzFace2]

I am not a fan of DeWalt after returning 3 sanders for not working out of the box.
Well the 3rd did work long enough to get the job done and that was not long at all.

I like the IR and they are a well known company.
It could be the 2 stage that makes it draw a little more on start up?
What do the other draw on start up? Same HP motors?
I have no clue when my 2 stage draws on start up I should check the breakers, yes 2.

There is also nothing wrong with more CFM for the same PSI.
Bigger is better in this case.

edit:
I had to close up the garage so I looked at the breakers 2 - 50 amp
8HP motor
230 volt
30 amps
3450 RPM
Snap-on® BRA8180V 1-Phase Stationary Air Compressor, Dual Stages, 8 hp, 27 scfm at 175 psi, 80 gal Vertical Tank
If I ever get it to run 100% duty I got a big leak some where
I should also say add another $4000 to your price and that is what mine goes for new.
I got mine off Ebay for under $1000 used
Dave ----

[Danny G]

I think powemate makes the DeWalt. They make the Porter Cable after researching the parts. The only difference between the three "brands" is the manifold. Power mate and PC are the same, DeWalt has a nicer manifold.

Start up power I guess isn't an issue. I will be wiring everything up as necessary. It's about 6 ft from the breaker box.

[Danny G]

FuzzFace2 wrote

I am not a fan of DeWalt after returning 3 sanders for not working out of the box.

DeWalt
Craftsman
Porter Cable
Black and Decker
Stanley


All the same company now a days with minor differences between the top three and BD and Stanley being bottom rung. PC is dropping off being replaced by Craftsman as their Pro-sumer line.

[Danny G]

IR is assembled in KY USA vs the others... No idea. I don't know if they build the pumps there but they do build the tanks and out everything together.

[Gary Lewis]

I've always heard good things about IR.

[Danny G]

Both units are the same price point. DW/PC are single stage 3 pump units oiled and ready to go.

IR is two-stage and requires our special oil to be bought on the side for about another 20 bucks.

the IR puts out 15.8 cubic feet a minute at 90 PSI and the DeWalt and Porter Cable foot 14 cubic feet per minute at 90 PSI.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I like Oliver, and Jenny (the Jenny brand is what was left after DeWalt bought Emglo compressors)

Much the same that we now have 'The American Saw Company' that makes industrial radial arm saws while DeWalt which was synonymous with radial arm saws has none.

SBD is a lumbering beast that steamrolls established competition.
Not too long ago they were ready to move to Bermuda  until they got more concessions.

[Danny G]

The wife doesn't want to help me fight the 600lb IR off the trailer so we may just end up with the DeWalt which clocks in around 380lbs

[ArdWrknTrk]

🤔
Seems you need to gift your wife a new gantry hoist!

[FuzzFace2]

TheScatch wrote

The wife doesn't want to help me fight the 600lb IR off the trailer so we may just end up with the DeWalt which clocks in around 380lbs

There is a reason why it is heavier ...... better built maybe?
Even at 380 all the weight is up top making it fun to move ...... NOT!

When I moved my son help me load mine into a POD container for shipping.
When it showed up with 3 other POD's we had movers move the 2+ man stuff into the house and I was able to get them to help get it out and into my garage.

Maybe hit the local corner help stand and offer $10 to $20 each to 2 guys to help off load it?
I also like what Jim had to say LOL
Dave ----

[Machspeed]

Dave, I have a setup very much like yours. I went with the Maxline plumbing, 3/4" and a copper tubing system to catch the moisture. I thought I had a pretty good setup initially but use of a DA made me realize I do not. Since I added the copper tubing system, I've had no problems. Still, when I get serious about painting, I'll probably be adding some things. As for a compressor, I went with Eaton, 5HP, 80 Gal, 220V single stage unit. I've had it for almost eight years now and it's never given me an issue. I'll have to post some pics up of my system. Good luck with your compressor, buddy!    

[FuzzFace2]

The water was why I did the fin tube right out of the compressor tank to help cool the air and drop the water out at the start.
The other day I was getting a little water out my hose and found a little water at the hose drip leg.
I need to go around and check them all and the tank also.
I have only been turning on the compressor to blow dust off me or a part and then turning it off so I have not checked the drip legs in some time.

When I sprayed the truck I had no issues with water but I had a fan blowing across the fin tube dryer.
I also forgot to put a filter on the gun  but I was ok just bugs and a little dirt when the cheap air blew.
Dave ----

[Danny G]

FuzzFace2 wrote

The water was why I did the fin tube right out of the compressor tank to help cool the air and drop the water out at the start.
The other day I was getting a little water out my hose and found a little water at the hose drip leg.
I need to go around and check them all and the tank also.
I have only been turning on the compressor to blow dust off me or a part and then turning it off so I have not checked the drip legs in some time.

When I sprayed the truck I had no issues with water but I had a fan blowing across the fin tube dryer.
I also forgot to put a filter on the gun  but I was ok just bugs and a little dirt when the cheap air blew.
Dave ----

Where did you get the fin tube? Lowe's hauled off the old compressor today. I was not able to get the IR so went back to the DeWalt. It's the same unit as the PC, just has a regulator and manifold on the tank if you want to run off of that for something quick.

I was looking at the max line. Is it really cheaper than copper in the long run? I can get 3/4 copper piping for about $1.38/ft. Is it safer than PVC? I was under the impression at the core Max line is just pvc pipe. I have seen a few shops that use PEX A even though the manufacturer says its not rated for air. And all these places are still holding up.

It's hot and humid here in SC but I will have AC in the garage. I drained a good bit of water out of the 29gallon's tank this weekend after using it. Hooking up a hose pre filter will mist water so I need to get the water collection/dryer hammered out. I really wish HF didn't discontinue their fridge dryer, but space is limited in a single car garage as it is

[FuzzFace2]

TheScatch wrote

Where did you get the fin tube? Lowe's hauled off the old compressor today. I was not able to get the IR so went back to the DeWalt. It's the same unit as the PC, just has a regulator and manifold on the tank if you want to run off of that for something quick.

I was looking at the max line. Is it really cheaper than copper in the long run? I can get 3/4 copper piping for about $1.38/ft. Is it safer than PVC? I was under the impression at the core Max line is just pvc pipe. I have seen a few shops that use PEX A even though the manufacturer says its not rated for air. And all these places are still holding up.

It's hot and humid here in SC but I will have AC in the garage. I drained a good bit of water out of the 29gallon's tank this weekend after using it. Hooking up a hose pre filter will mist water so I need to get the water collection/dryer hammered out. I really wish HF didn't discontinue their fridge dryer, but space is limited in a single car garage as it is

When I lived it CT we had a scrap yard not far from me and they had some.
I don't know where they got it from but I took all they had, 1 part was new they had hidden away.
It's base board heating fin tube.
I would think you could get it at any of the large hard ware box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
and the last place would be plumbing supply as it would be $$. You don't need the cover just the fin tube.

First I would never use PVC and I don't care if they been using it forever NOT ME!
Some use steel pipe but you can have issues with this. You would need to cut & thread it to fit where you want so not easy to work with, unless you have a plumber buddy.
It has oil inside from when made to keep from rusting and threading.
And the rust when you get water inside it will rust, so I don't like steel piping.
Also what do you use to mount it?

Copper is ok but I thought it would be to much $$ for all I needed then add fittings and it was more $$
Then you had to have a torch to solder it and don't burn down the garage and then what do you use to mount it? A shop I had with dad had copper air lines.

I have not heard of PEX so could not say good or bad but if they say not for air I most likely not use it for air.
The max line is a kit that has everything. Tool for cutting and cleaning the ruff edges, fittings other than for air hose cupplings, and has the hangers.
You will need a tape measure, 2 large wrenches for the fittings (I used large adjustable wrenches), marker to mark where you want to cut the line and to mark the fittings to know how tight to go.
The hangers use a nail so a hammer for them.

The only thing I was worried about was the temp it can work in. Like you in SC it gets hot here in NC and I don't have AC. I have seen the temp in my garage at 98* the other day and I had all the doors open so how knows how hot with them down? But so far I have only had 1 failure and that was from me not tightening a fitting. I also turn off the compressor when I shut the garage down. I would hate a line or hose let go and the compressor running for days or weeks, if it would last that long, till I got out there to do something. It was something we did at the shop too.

I know small 1 car garages! This is what I had in CT. To work on a side I had to push it to the wall on the other side. I could not push it out into the drive as my car trailer was there and it could not be parked on the street not hooked to something.

You can just make out the compressor in front of the car between the 2 shelves.
Below is a close up of the compressor and how I had the air dryer bolted to the side of the shelf.

When I first started using the dryer I was getting water out the hose and could not figure why?
When I got back to the compressor / dryer it was like 200*! No air flow back there. I opened a small window and put a box fan on the shelf and no more water out hose.
That is why when I painted the truck I used a box fan to blow across the fin tube just to make sure it would cool the compressed air.

Just my thinking on the compressed air system
Dave ----

[Danny G]

FuzzFace2 wrote

TheScatch wrote

Where did you get the fin tube? Lowe's hauled off the old compressor today. I was not able to get the IR so went back to the DeWalt. It's the same unit as the PC, just has a regulator and manifold on the tank if you want to run off of that for something quick.

I was looking at the max line. Is it really cheaper than copper in the long run? I can get 3/4 copper piping for about $1.38/ft. Is it safer than PVC? I was under the impression at the core Max line is just pvc pipe. I have seen a few shops that use PEX A even though the manufacturer says its not rated for air. And all these places are still holding up.

It's hot and humid here in SC but I will have AC in the garage. I drained a good bit of water out of the 29gallon's tank this weekend after using it. Hooking up a hose pre filter will mist water so I need to get the water collection/dryer hammered out. I really wish HF didn't discontinue their fridge dryer, but space is limited in a single car garage as it is

When I lived it CT we had a scrap yard not far from me and they had some.
I don't know where they got it from but I took all they had, 1 part was new they had hidden away.
It's base board heating fin tube.
I would think you could get it at any of the large hard ware box stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
and the last place would be plumbing supply as it would be $$. You don't need the cover just the fin tube.

First I would never use PVC and I don't care if they been using it forever NOT ME!
Some use steel pipe but you can have issues with this. You would need to cut & thread it to fit where you want so not easy to work with, unless you have a plumber buddy.
It has oil inside from when made to keep from rusting and threading.
And the rust when you get water inside it will rust, so I don't like steel piping.
Also what do you use to mount it?

Copper is ok but I thought it would be to much $$ for all I needed then add fittings and it was more $$
Then you had to have a torch to solder it and don't burn down the garage and then what do you use to mount it? A shop I had with dad had copper air lines.

I have not heard of PEX so could not say good or bad but if they say not for air I most likely not use it for air.
The max line is a kit that has everything. Tool for cutting and cleaning the ruff edges, fittings other than for air hose cupplings, and has the hangers.
You will need a tape measure, 2 large wrenches for the fittings (I used large adjustable wrenches), marker to mark where you want to cut the line and to mark the fittings to know how tight to go.
The hangers use a nail so a hammer for them.

The only thing I was worried about was the temp it can work in. Like you in SC it gets hot here in NC and I don't have AC. I have seen the temp in my garage at 98* the other day and I had all the doors open so how knows how hot with them down? But so far I have only had 1 failure and that was from me not tightening a fitting. I also turn off the compressor when I shut the garage down. I would hate a line or hose let go and the compressor running for days or weeks, if it would last that long, till I got out there to do something. It was something we did at the shop too.

I know small 1 car garages! This is what I had in CT. To work on a side I had to push it to the wall on the other side. I could not push it out into the drive as my car trailer was there and it could not be parked on the street not hooked to something.

You can just make out the compressor in front of the car between the 2 shelves.
Below is a close up of the compressor and how I had the air dryer bolted to the side of the shelf.

When I first started using the dryer I was getting water out the hose and could not figure why?
When I got back to the compressor / dryer it was like 200*! No air flow back there. I opened a small window and put a box fan on the shelf and no more water out hose.
That is why when I painted the truck I used a box fan to blow across the fin tube just to make sure it would cool the compressed air.

Just my thinking on the compressed air system
Dave ----

been perusing the interwebs for baseboard elements and retrofit elements.