Meet "Baruch"

[Ethobling]

Hello. I am a guy from SE NC who recently (2 months ago, I think) bought a 1983 F-100 with the wonderful straight 6. I named him "Baruch," which means "blessing" in Hebrew.

So far I have rebuilt the drum brakes in the back and have the calipers to redo the front brakes (I suspect they are sticking seeing as how the pads and rotors have much life left in them) and plan on trying to diagnose why Baruch wants to cut out after I try to start him (I have to pump the gas multiple times and then have to rev it for a few seconds before he will idle on his own). I suspect it is a fuel pump/filter, but I am new to fixing cars/trucks.
He has significant rust in the bed,
so I already took some time yesterday to go to the local "pick and pull" and look at some truck beds from 1980-1986 F-1xx(s) in the junk yard. Most of them look in excellent condition. I do have a question, though: can an 8 ft bed go on Baruch if Baruch only has a 7 ft bed installed now?

The oil pan is leaking, so I ordered a rubber-coated gasket (since I didn't like the idea of a cork one) and it comes in tomorrow. He needed an oil change anyway :)

Any tips/tricks are appreciated. I am young and new to fixing cars and truck in general, but want to be self-sufficient and now have to pay what little money I have on mechanics' "labor costs."

Thank you.

[Gary Lewis]

Welcome!  Glad you found us.  I'm sure we can help.

SE NC?  We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I knew what town you are in.

On the bed, no you can't easily put a different length bed on.  So if you have the short bed you need to look for another short bed.  (I'm sure it is possible to put a longer bed on a short frame, but it wouldn't be right nor easy.)

On having to pump a lot to get it to run, that sounds like the choke isn't coming on enough.  The instructions for setting the choke are included here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Carter YF & YFA 1BBL Carbs.

[Ethobling]

Wilmington NC

Yeah, Baruch does idle really low, almost wants to cut out. My brother thought this might have been the issue. Thank you for the resource. If I get time today (after dealing with the front brakes) I will definitely adjust the idle. Will keep you posted.

[Gary Lewis]

You are now on the map.

But, you may not have understood what I was saying.  There's a choke on the carb that is used to enrichen the air/fuel mix when the engine is cold.  And what you described sounds like a lack of choke, a problem that shows up only when the engine is cold.

So while the idle speed may be low and need to be corrected, it probably isn't the problem that is causing the engine to be hard to start when cold.

[1986F150Six]

This is a link to something which might help:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1110073-choke-adjustment-101-a.html

[grumpin]

Welcome!

[Ethobling]

So if it isn't the choke, is it the fuel filter/pump? I suspect it could be one/both because I turned the key into the run position and couldn't hear a pump turn on.

Thank you for the choke resource, 1986.

[Gary Lewis]

The choke and the idle speed are two different things.  I mentioned the choke and it seemed like your response was that you'd adjust the idle speed.  But maybe I misunderstood.  Anyway, you may need to adjust both of them.

And that resource tells you how.  That's from Ford's factory shop manual, so is what the dealer's techs worked from.  While it is probably quite accurate it may assume a level of knowledge that not everyone has.

[1986F150Six]

Ethobling wrote

So if it isn't the choke, is it the fuel filter/pump? I suspect it could be one/both because I turned the key into the run position and couldn't hear a pump turn on.

Thank you for the choke resource, 1986.

There should not be an electric fuel pump on a 1983 six cylinder engine. It came equipped with a mechanical pump, so one will not hear a pump when the ignition is turned on.

[Ethobling]

@1986: Well that would explain why I couldn't hear the pump, heh.

@Gary: Yeah, I misunderstood what you were saying. I'm extremely new to carbs (my Taurus has fuel injectors, obviously) and will be doing some research to get myself acquainted with them.

I suppose I will need to adjust the carb a bit. If that doesn't keep the idle correct, could it then be the filter and/or pump? I assume, though, that the mechanical pumps are more reliable than electronic ones?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welcome to the forum!  

Mechanical pumps are quite reliable.
I've only had mine wear out once in 32 years.

There are no electronic safety circuits to go bad and no wires or connections to corrode or break.
There is no motor or solenoid to wear out or seize.

There are a few disadvantages.
It takes a long time to prime the pump if you run out of gas.
A tiny hole in the line between tank and engine mounted pump can cause it to 'suck wind' (air doesn't pump very well)
The rubber diaphragm in the pump can cause gasoline to get into the engine oil without any outward sign.

From what I've read it doesn't seem like a pump or filter problem.
I'd go with David's carburetor adjustment advice.
Perhaps the accelerator pump is not in great shape if you have to pump the gas a lot?

Anyway, you are in good company.
I'm more knowledgeable of the V-8 than the I-6.

I'd certainly feel blessed if I had Baruch in my driveway!

[Ethobling]

Why does my transmission have this ~2" by 4"-5" slit cut out of it?


Also, looks like it's time to work on the tie rods now...




P.S. Yes, that is oil on the bottom of the oil pan. Just got the oil pan gasket an hour ago and plan on doing the oil change Sunday.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That 'hole' is usually covered by an inspection plate.
With an automatic you need a way to tighten the torque converter to the flexplate.
With a manual you can inspect the ring gear teeth
And it will let a leaking rear main seal leak *out, instead of just being flung around inside the bell housing.

[Gary Lewis]

You are lacking the plate that covers that opening.  I think there are supposed to be two screws holding it on.

[ArdWrknTrk]

As for your tie rods, are they really loose, or does the link just swivel when you turn the wheel side to side?
Because the latter is normal.

The boots certainly look starved for grease.

What are you seeing that makes you want to replace them?

[Ethobling]

How serious is it that the plate is missing/how soon should I find a replacement? I'd imagine it is very serious. If so, what steps should I follow to ensure the transmission is back to tip-top shape?

Regarding the tie rods: the boots are torn and there is a lot of play left to right.

[Gary Lewis]

The missing plate isn't too serious.  But you should be able to find one at a salvage since it was used for many years on that transmission.

The tie rods are a bigger issue.  If there's slop side-to-side they need to be replaced.

[Ethobling]

Alright. Next time I head to the local "pick and pull" I'll snag a plate.

Yeah, I figured the tie rods were a big issue. Already bought 2/4 of the tie rods. The rest will be at Advance Sunday.

Would have loved to buy MOOG rods, but I just can't afford the 2.5x price tag. Down the road, maybe in 6 months or so, I plan on getting the MOOGs. I'd rather trust my life to those.



P.S. Is there a good guide y'all follow for oil pan gasket replacement? I thought it would be simple enough, but I looked at the little "installation tips" on the gasket package and it looks more complicated than just taking the old gasket off, cleaning the surfaces, and putting the new one on...

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm sorry. I couldn't see the boots were torn on my phone screen, and I didn't think to zoom in.

So, you went with Centric?
They're not 'bad' in any respect.
Have used them, and consider Moog is probably made in the same factories.

I don't think there is a oil pan gasket tutorial here on the Garagemahal.

There are considerations though:
RMS leaking?
2 or 4wd?
Did you buy the one piece, or the multi piece gasket set?
Has the oil always been clean?
Depending on mileage, do you intend to replace the oil pump?
For V-8 trucks, has the sump pickup been cleared of all the shredded nylon from the cam gear?
(This took me more than an hour!)

I don't know what generic "tips" are on the package, but we can walk you through the pitfalls of replacing a pan gasket on a Ford pickup.
And also 'upgrading' to the one piece metal/rubber gasket if you intend to.
The I-6 guys (David, Dave, Ray, etc al) are more than glad to help with engine specific questions.

[Ethobling]

"Driveworks" is the brand.

-RMS stands for "rear main seal?" If so, I need a location on where that is.
-2wd
-Multi-piece gasket. It's the best Advance had. It's rubber coated cork, which I still don't like, but better than normal cork.
-No clue. Just got the truck with 280k miles. Motor only has <100k probably.
-Pump? Should I? If so, is it easy to access/a cheap part?
-I6, so I guess the nylon cam gear doesn't apply?