Little Blue 82

[salans7]

Weekend job for sure.

[Ray Cecil]

Rembrant wrote

My '84 Flywheel had the holes for the 11" clutch, but I don't know if they all did. Maybe one of the other guys know?

Yeah I am unsure. I am looking at the Luk kit for 11". Will probably get that. Not sure if I should order the Luk flywheel or not. Its description is vague and does not specifically say if it is for a 10" or 11" or both. It gives an flywheel OD of 10.9xx". Not sure if that means its for the 11" clutch disc or not.

[Ray Cecil]

salans7 wrote

Weekend job for sure.

Yeah, I am starting to gather that is what its going to turn into. Good thing I have a 3 day weekend coming up.

[1986F150Six]

<quote author="Rembrant">

Ray Cecil wrote

My '84 Flywheel had the holes for the 11" clutch, but I don't know if they all did. Maybe one of the other guys know?

The flywheel in my son's 1984 and the one in my 1986, both, were factory drilled for either the 10" or 11". Both trucks received the 11" LUK clutch kit. The 11" clutch required less pressure [leg] than did the 10" units.

The kits only cost ~$35 more [11" vs. 10"].

The mounting bolts are different, but easy to obtain.

[Gary Lewis]

There was only one manual transmission flywheel from 1980 through at least '89, which is the end of my catalog, as shown here: Engines/Flywheels.  And there were both 10" and 11" clutches used during that time, as shown here: Driveline/Clutches & Linkage.  So the one flywheel fits both clutch sizes, just as David and Daniel found on their trucks.

[Ray Cecil]

Dave and Gary. This is great info. Looks like I will just go ahead and get the 11" LUK. Everything I read online....everyone suggests the LUK.

RockAuto has the bolt kit for the 11" disc and pressure plate....so....there ya have it.

[Gary Lewis]

[1986F150Six]

If you replace the rear main seal, while changing the clutch, give this some thought. The Frenchtown Flyer [retired Ford engine development engineer] recommends using a seal from a Modular [V8] engine. The sizes are the same and the newer design has 2 lips for a better seal.

[grumpin]

1986F150Six wrote

If you replace the rear main seal, while changing the clutch, give this some thought. The Frenchtown Flyer [retired Ford engine development engineer] recommends using a seal from a Modular [V8] engine. The sizes are the same and the newer design has 2 lips for a better seal.

That’s some good info.

[Ray Cecil]

Ok, I have the truck all apart. I replaced the rear main seal. I inspected the old seal and sure enough, only one lip as Dave mentioned. I ordered a seal from Summit because I got the clutch from them too. The seal has two lips.

I am replacing the flywheel too. After inspection, it looks cooked. It has a lot of spots that got too hot during the slipping that has been going on. Im not sure if resurfacing it would be a good idea. Im thinking the hardened surface would need to be annealed. New is just the way to go.

The lift makes it easy to wrestle tcases and transmissions out, but gravity makes it hard to reinstall....so not looking forward to putting them back in.

[Ray Cecil]

On a side note, my buddies 87 bronco he gave me hasnt ran in 5 years. Out of curiosity, and hopes that I might be able to get it moved to a new spot in the yard, I threw a battery in it last week, said three hail marrys, and turned the key.....dang thing fired right up!!! 5 year old gas!!!!

After letting it idle a minute, I gave it a rev, and a HUGE collection of insulation, rat poop, rust, and dead mouses(mice) babies came blowing out the back!! Then the wasps got pissed off and stung me in the belly and neck. Gah dangit!!

I called my buddy immediately. He couldnt believe it. We both thought the bronco would never live again.

I cannot overstate just how bad the bronco is. The body is welded to the frame because all the body mounts are gone.

So we made plans for Matt to come over and we were going to have at least one more last hurrah redneck style....

So Matt came over saturday. We took the topper off and tried the brakes. No brakes. Front passenger side line was rusted through. So found a bolt to cap off the distribution block on the frame. Fresh fluid, and we had one front brake and two rear. Good enough for us.

So with brakes and a running 302, we thought....hmmmm.....not loud enough.....so we drank a little more beer then got the cutter wheel out, 10 minutes later.....no muffler. Time for a good old redneckin time!!

Took it out in the back yard, about 3 acres, and tore up the grass. We took turns sittin in the back seat. Holly and the boys wanted a turn, so Matt grabbed a phone and I threw the family in and we made a good ole family video. I'll get it youtubed and post a link.

It was a glorious time! Its so much fun beating on an old bronco that has no hope. We swore to each other to keep beating the bronco as long as we can!

[grumpin]

Yee haw! More smiles from an old bullnose!

[Ray Cecil]

Its a bricknose....87'. But who cares, right? We are planning to take off all unecessary items and do some muddin. So if there is anything any yall want, lemme know.

[grumpin]

Ha! Didn’t even catch that. What fun!

Edit: Not that I can think of. I was thinking the other day that my Bronco has been very dependable, the best I’ve had since I sold my 1968 Chevy C-10.

[Ray Cecil]

Well, I got the new flywheel and clutch installed. Was going to wait for a buddy to help me lift the transmission back in, but I stopped being a little girl and picked that hunk of metal up like Hulk, lifted it over my head and put it back in there by myself. Yeah....ive been working out.....still skinny though....

I had to take a 20 minute shower after that. Gear oil and 37 years of dirt and clutch dust equals one stinky sweaty dude.

[Gary Lewis]

It doesn't take 37 years to get absolutely slimey.  Dunno how long Big Blue's T19 has been in, but it is a mess.  I think I'm going to power wash it as well as the t-case - on low pressure.

Anyway, glad you got it back together.  

[Ray Cecil]

Yes, that is true.

After I get off work in a few, I am heading home to get the blue truck finished up. Cant wait to see how that clutch performs.

I am hoping I can make some tire smoke.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Don't beat or baby the clutch too much (out of the gate)

It needs to bed in and go through some heat cycles before it's 100%
Just like new brake pads

If you cook it, glaze it or tear it up you'll be doing it again... soon

[Ray Cecil]

Jim, ive taken it on a few trips around the neighborhood. Just a couple of hard accelerations to test 3rd gear. The last clutch was slipping very bad in 3rd anything past 1/3rd throttle.

So far Ive noticed there is plenty of grip. Its much harder to slip the clutch for 1st gear starts. In fact, I am a little worried. There is very little pedal travel from decoupled to fully engaged.

So, the only adjustmust in the mechanical clutch is the pushrod at the fork I believe. Should the pushrod be putting pressure on the fork at all times? I would think that would cause the throwout bearing to be continuously moving, is that a bad thing?

So, the old clutch would engage at the last inch of pedal release. Now, the new clutch engages at the first inch of release. I now have to push the clutch lever all the way to the floorboard to get it to release. Is the normal? Im not sure I like it. It is difficult to slip the clutch for clean smooth takeoffs.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ray, I can't say about a mechanical clutch.
With hydraulic there is a spring inside the slave that keeps slight pressure on the throwout all the time.

Yes, it is better for a bearing to be constantly spinning than accelerating from 0-3,000 (or whatever your shift point) and back to zero all the time.

The feel will get better and the sweet spot wider as the friction disc beds in.