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Maybe you need Gary's solid state ICVR mod?
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Or, better yet, Gary's to-be Arduino that will not only translate Bricknose senders to drive Bullnose gauges, but will also give a digital readout of oil pressure and water temp.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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More widgets to go bad...
But I sure wish my Bricknose dash would read the Bullnose senders.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Depends on how you are counting and what probability of failure you give the widgets.
In the fuel system, it is pretty obvious that Ford's Bullnose-era systems were fraught with problems. Otherwise they wouldn't have kept making changes. By ~1990 things had settled down and the systems were less prone to failure. But the sending units were, as you know, upside down and backwards to the Bullnose gauges. So, is adding a widget to translate a more stable fuel system to an older gauge more or less prone to failure? And, if you have that widget why not make use of it to provide other information?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
And, I forgot the Bullnose sender/Bricknose gauge issue. If this works for Bricknose sender/Bullnose gauge then a simple change of the code will do the reverse.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Because I have the exact opposite.
Bullnose senders in a Brick. Anything that uses logic is a point of failure that can't be rectified with duct tape, bailing wire, or WD-40. (or a soldering iron, for that matter) I'd still like to play with making one that will have my gauge read correctly.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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While something with logic is a point of failure, it isn't being used in a place that will leave you stranded on the side of the road. Yes, you might not know how much fuel you have or what the oil pressure is, but that won't strand you.
If I get the Arduino going for Big Blue, and that's certainly the plan, then we could easily build a twin and change the code to make your gauge work correctly. And with your Android you could plug in and tweak the code, add functions, etc.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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This sounds pretty exciting to me. I've loved building boards since Heathkit back in the late '60's when I was a kid. But given my eyes and the lack of experience with SMD solder ovens, or even hot air rework equipment I can see the appeal of a unit like Arduino or Pi, even a Beagleboard. Lmk if you ever get started on this. I'd like to follow along.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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I fully intend to do it. Going with the later fuel system so have to translate the sending unit, and an Arduino is how I plan to do it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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