Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

[Gary Lewis]

Should work fine.

[JimJam300]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

It's just there to support the foam on the door, right?

The door does not contact it. I think it's to keep debris out. I was kind of stumped so I asked my wife why she thinks they used such a large mesh and she said airflow.

[JimJam300]

From Docs, HVAC. Same grille, different location.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If I had to guess I'd say it's there to support the opening when the box is molded.

I can't see it keeping any critter out or affecting airflow in any way.

[JimJam300]

Original one is plastic I just have no clue what it's supposed to do. I went and epoxied the aluminum mesh on there and I used some 1/2" thick adhesive-backed neoprene foam for the weather seal. So yeah I did manage to get the blend door out and I sandblasted it and epoxied all the rust pinholes, painted it, and it's ready for the foam and glue. Amazon is taking its sweet time with my 1/16" foam so that's keeping me from slapping the whole assembly back on the truck. I'll get some pictures up of the repair job when I put my garage back together. The termite exterminators said I had to move everything from all the walls so they could spray and then showed up and said it wasn't necessary

Through this I've found a very clean and easy way to apply JB Weld, which is by using small el cheapo paintbrushes for arts and crafts. You can get a 100 pack for very cheap on Amazon.

[JimJam300]

Got the outer vents pretty much rebuilt. Hopefully I can put the JB Weld down for now.





I already glued neoprene foam to this outer blend door and I was reading somewhere in this forum that neoprene for the blend doors was not desirable. I assume because it's too rigid?

I just took apart my interior vents, and yep my heater blend door is busted. I looked and I couldn't find that one 3D printed door that has been posted here a few times.

[BigBrother-84]

Clean job!
Good progress!

[ArdWrknTrk]

See if this works....

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Heater-Blend-Door-Alternate-Design-tp112193.html

Edit, here is the purchase link but the install is worth reading.

https://bullnosecreations.square.site/

[mat in tn]

this looks great. i have been considering something like this and now I'm inspired. driving to the shop this morning one of the leaves from my willow oak came through into the cab but hey, it made the whole trip. these are getting through the cowl vent worse than any before. need to do something. btw that looks like "gutter guard." like the type you get on a roll at the local home supply. am I correct?  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Would you consider a polka dot cowl from a bricknose?

If you really want the slots Gary did a writeup in Dad's Truck thread (maybe back on FTE)

[mat in tn]

I have some. and it's true that my 93 has no issues but some trucks I just can't. I'm just picky that way. I really like the idea of adding a better screen to the fresh air intake in a discrete area if I can. but yes, the pinhole cowl solved an issue.

[JimJam300]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

See if this works....

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Heater-Blend-Door-Alternate-Design-tp112193.html

Edit, here is the purchase link but the install is worth reading.

https://bullnosecreations.square.site/

Cheers. Thanks Jim.

mat in tn wrote

this looks great. i have been considering something like this and now I'm inspired. driving to the shop this morning one of the leaves from my willow oak came through into the cab but hey, it made the whole trip. these are getting through the cowl vent worse than any before. need to do something. btw that looks like "gutter guard." like the type you get on a roll at the local home supply. am I correct?

Thanks man. Wasn't sure if the mesh was necessary but I figured it wouldn't hurt, I already had the material from when I wanted to make a "Satoshi grill" for my 4Runner.

Amazon link

[JimJam300]

It has been a while...

I had the steel heater blend door so the process of repairing was about the same as the plastic, just more layers. I found 1/4" polyurethane foam on McMaster-Carr and that or 3/16" seems to be the ticket. Attached with Super 90 adhesive.


Duct assembly is in the truck...



A/C blend door actuator is missing the vacuum line pigtail, mine got chewed up by the rodents. Last time I had the part # on hand I couldn't find it for sale anywhere. Is there a way to make my own vacuum harnesses with the factory connectors?

[Gary Lewis]

That looks really good!  

On the vacuum line, can you tell us the # from this illustration?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Are you saying the rubber fitting is missing from the end of the plastic vacuum line?

[JimJam300]

This is the part


I have the fittings and they are fine. The vacuum lines are just damaged in several parts and I haven't figured out a way to remove them and use my own lines. I guess ideally I'll be looking for a replacement.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If the bugs are still in the rubber ends just slip come vacuum hose over, just like you were splicing a brittle colored line in the engine bay.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, you can make your own.  Like Jim described or if that doesn't seem to work I've slipped a piece of brass tubing inside the vacuum line and then vacuum hose over the tubing.

[JimJam300]

Getting ready to paint my dashboard (not the dash pad) with SEM Color Coat. All my supplies should come in by Monday. Just for anyone's future reference, the adhesion promoter for my dash is SEM 38363 Sand Free. Did Ford use the same plastic on the dash for every factory and year?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I think the dash plastic was all the same since every year has the same problem.

Good luck with the painting.  It is all in the prep - do LOTS of it, especially since a dash may have had Armor All on it.