Instrument Panel and Misc

[Machspeed]

Now that I have much of the mechanicals addressed, I need to fix the HVAC system and some electricals. The HVAC will include the dreaded blend door.

Anyway, took the dash off yesterday, removed the HVAC control unit and stereo. Pulled the instrument cluster facia panel and now need to pull the instrument cluster. I've done this before but I must have been smarter then, as I'm having a heck of a time removing both the speedometer cable and the electrical plug behind it. Doesn't the plug just pull out? I don't need to depress anything do I? What's the trick to the speedometer cable?

While I have all this apart, I'm going to address the very poor lighting behind the dash by replacing the OEM style bulbs with LEDs. Read an older post on here from 2017 titled, "dash/instrument illumination". The post had a couple of Amazon links with suggested LED replacement bulbs. Suggested bulbs linked below. Am I correct that these will work with the dimmable circuit but will not dim? Anything else I need to know?  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWXSL7A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

The instrument connector has tabs on each end and you need to squeeze them towards each other to get the connector out.  I can get pics after a bit if you need them.

Similarly the speedo cable has to be released.  Don't remember exactly how, but can include a pic of it.

On the LED's, you might want to read my thread on Instrument Lighting & Paint Testing.  And don't miss the very last post.  I'm very impressed with the HiPo LEDs and highly recommend them.

[FuzzFace2]

I can also tell you if you are going to paint the needles to get the HiPo? paint.
I used Testers orange and they look great in day light but with my green LED's I cant see them, they turn dark / black, but I can see everything else just fine.
Just a heads up.

I went with LED's I found off Ebay, cant remember if they dim or not but on high they are not over bright for me.
I also used LED's for the warning lights across the top.
I like the bright turn lights. The high beam light at first was too bright, most of my night driving is real early so I can run high beams most of the time, but it is ok now.
Seat belt light is only on a short time and not a big deal.

I used the stock bulbs in the lights / wiper switch, HVAC panel / ash tray & radio (that has stopped working) because finding LED's to fit them can be hard with the sockets & covers they use.


Dave ----

[Machspeed]

Thank you fellas! Last night when I was working on it I really couldn't see. Either too much light blinding me, or not enough. After submitting this thread this morning, went out there and quickly removed instrument cluster electrical. After seeing that the electrical had tabs, it was a piece of cake. The dang speedo cable was a different story and I broke the plastic clip. Wondering now if that clip can be purchased separately vs. buying a whole new cable.....argh. Gary, if you have a picture illustrating the speedometer cable connection, I'd appreciate it? I remember last time I took it off that I hoped I would have to mess with it again.

Great info on the LED's and painting the needles, Dave. Thank you!!!

Pulled the instrument cluster also hoping that I can use mine and merely add a tach. Time to do some more homework.

[Rusty_S85]

Yep you really need the right paint for the needles to glow.  I think mine was HiPo but not sure, I bought mine off ebay I believe it was and I got the Red as it is correct for Ford



I also did the LED conversion on my truck as well for all including the radio.  I also used the same paint on the radio needle as well.  I only wished the paint would brush on better than it does cause I really would have liked to have done the white as well.

[Rusty_S85]

The provisions are there for a tach but I would hit up ebay, I bought a whole cluster for my truck with tach and it was something like $80 for the whole thing.  Came out cheaper than me sourcing just the tach and then swapping the circuit board on the back to a tach version.

[Machspeed]

Rusty_S85 wrote

The provisions are there for a tach but I would hit up ebay, I bought a whole cluster for my truck with tach and it was something like $80 for the whole thing.  Came out cheaper than me sourcing just the tach and then swapping the circuit board on the back to a tach version.

Agree Rusty, however I'm looking into both options. There was a post on here where I was asking questions about adding a tachometer to my existing instrument cluster and for the life of me, I cannot find it. In order to do that, I have to have a certain circuit board and I want to confirm that I have that circuit board.    

[Gary Lewis]

Here's a pic of the speedo cable latch.  And while it may be possible to remove it w/o breaking it, mine didn't want to come off.




And, here's how to remove it.  Note that my finger is on the tab and my thumb on the speedo's input.  That's because the latch has to move down a bit to release, so if you put your thumb on the bottom of the latch all you are doing is deforming the latch - and it may break.




As for a tach, there are two printed circuits on the gauges - without tach on the left and with tach on the right:

[Rusty_S85]

For the circuit board you will need one of the following.

1980 : E0TZ-10K843-B.  This should be marked E0TF-10C956-BB and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

1981/86 : E1TZ-10K843-B.  This should be marked E1TF-10C956-BA and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Another vote for the tiny bottle of Hi-Po paint!    

One thing to note. If you do have a battery charge indicator light you need to keep a champ conventional bulb in there.
The LED will not pass enough current to get your alternator charging.

[Gary Lewis]

Rusty_S85 wrote

For the circuit board you will need one of the following.

1980 : E0TZ-10K843-B.  This should be marked E0TF-10C956-BB and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

1981/86 : E1TZ-10K843-B.  This should be marked E1TF-10C956-BA and it is used on clusters w/Tach, ammeter and oil pressure gauges.

Rusty - I'm confused.  The 1980 & 1985 Master Cross Reference books show exactly what you said.  However, in reality that's not always true.  You can see that from my pic, below, - a printed circuit that ends in "B" and which has gauges and supports a tach.  And it has been working quite well.

So, I think what we should say is that the versions that support a tach end in "BX", where "X" may not even exist.  Does that make sense?  Is there a better way to say it?

[Rusty_S85]

Thats what I noticed.  I wonder if it might be a revised number that came later.

My parts and illustration guide is where I got the information from so its quite possible the double suffix might be a final iteration of the part number.

One thing I did notice is there is an A up above the number on your circuit board and I question if that A was relocated there to keep it away from the circuits that otherwise would be close to and yours is really marked BA just with the A no where near the rest of the number?

Your non tach listed one has an A listed far away as well.

The number for that one in the parts and illustration guide is

E1TZ-10K843-C for 81/86 F100/350 w/o Tach.  It says the number on there would be E1TF-10C956-CA

[Machspeed]

Well, I'm thinking I may not have the necessary circuit board to just add a tach. It's hard to read but looks like the last three are 5CA. Attached are photos. If I don't have the correct circuit board, what are my options?

[Gary Lewis]

You do not have the right printed circuit for a tach.  There are two options:

1. Buy either a complete instrument cluster with tach, or buy a tach and the associated circuit

2. Hard wire it.  The four wires you need are in that connector, but you'd have to solder a wire onto the copper trace and put a ring terminal on the end to go under the stud of the tach.

If you've not done a lot of soldering I'd suggest getting the whole instrument cluster inc tach.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It can be real tricky to solder to the copper foil traces on the flex circuit.

You need to be sure the surface is immaculate, and you need to work real fast so you don't cause too much plastic to melt.

I usually heavily tin the wire, get it liquid with a gun* and touch them both to the flex.
As soon as it starts to flow I let go the trigger and pin the wire down with something that won't stick.
(Chopstick with beeswax works good)

[Gary Lewis]

Well said, Jim.  I don't use a soldering gun on a printed circuit.  Soldering pen, yes.  But keep the heat low as that copper is adhered to the plastic with a glue and you don't want to mess it up.

[Machspeed]

I'm pretty good with a torch and soldering iron, but for this I feel I'd be better off just sourcing a new cluster with the tach. What really ticks me off is that I've been wanting to make this tach conversion for years.....way back when these trucks were plentiful in the salvage yards but never did. Good luck finding them now. BTW, is the clear plastic lens bezel available for our instrument panels???  

Gary, read through your LED posting and am wondering how I missed that. Looks like you really like those HiPo Cool Whites. What's your advised direction on the needle paint....HiPo paint or Testors?

Curious, who did your cataract surgery?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, you'd be better off getting the whole thing if you aren't good with soldering electronics.

As for the clear plastic, I think David/1986F150Six has found them NOS.  We didn't have the part numbers in the page at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges, but I added them just now.

As for the HiPo LEDs, I do really like them.  They work very nicely.

On the paint, I used HiPo's paint but have also used Testors.  They both worked for me.

And Dr. Todd Brockman at The Eye Institute did my cataract surgery.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I guess I use the gun because...
A) it's got enough thermal mass that that tinned wire is sticking NOW.
The foil has no mass, so it's up to temp instantly.

B) I can drop the gun and get on the stick before the solder flashes.
I can't get my iron back in the base, then pick up the stick and catch it before it freezes.

I guess my hands are not steady enough anymore.

I definitely wouldn't want to heat it slowly no matter what the ratio. (60/40, 70/30..)
Maybe there's some new magic solder that's low enough.
I see those crimp splices you heat to shrink the tubing and flow the pellet with a regular butane lighter.

But that's witchcraft to me.

[Rusty_S85]

those are cool I use them at work.  Only thing is they dont have enough solder for my tastes in them.  But I never had one fail though.