Ignition lock cylinder busted?

[swampedout]

So in the mornings, Ive had to turn the key really hard to get it into the start position. I have to put on gloves. And im not Mr. Atlas but I work with my hands so...

Whatever was causing the binding just gave way. Surprisingly not in the cold morning though. Leaving work, I turn the key to crank the truck and it did a full rotation and now spins and spins but does not engage anything.
I removed the key and unplugged the batts because the ignition switch was stuck on ON and Ive drained enough batteries in my life already.
I bought a new lock cylinder and key set. Im hoping this is the problem.
Question 1: Can I pop the cylinder out if its not in the ON position?
Question 2: what would it be if it wasnt the lock cylinder?
And lastly: If all else fails, whats the easiest way to hotwire the truck without messing up a bunch of wires?

Thanks everyone

[ArdWrknTrk]

You can take a pair of channelocks and grab the 'ears' of the chrome collar around the cylinder and twist, to break it out.

The teeth stripped off the actuator rack.

It's stuck 'ON', so I assume you're talking about getting the starter to spin it over.
First, make sure it's in park, or neutral. When you reconnect the battery use a metallic object to -electrically- connect the hot+ stud of the starter relay to the small 'S' stud (red/blue wire mounts here)
The starter will turn it over, and if the ignition is on, off you go.

[swampedout]

Thanks for the advice.

Just to clarify,
You think the teeth stripped out of the key cylinder?

And the s stud is on the regulator?

Apologies for the stupid questions, its been a long day.

[swampedout]

I see. The actuator rack is a seperate piece.

[BeagleRock]

I believe the "S" he's referring to is on the solenoid not the regulator.

[ArdWrknTrk]

^^^ Correct.

The little 's' stud is on the relay and takes signal from the fully forward START position of the ignition switch.
It's usually a 90* connector.

There's just too many functions going through the ignition switch plug to easily unplug it and make a jumper
... and if you're having to pop the hood to disconnect the battery anyhow.

[swampedout]

Yea i looked at a diagram of the ign switch and saw a bunch of wires. Im hoping the truck is really stuck in ON but the fuel pump is going so it should be.

Thanks gentlemen!
I really appreciate the help

[swampedout]

We did a test jump. It worked.
So now my question is when I open up the column, what parts do I need?

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/nontilt.php
This is actually a gm diagram but its the closest i can find.


Edit
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72346_1
This should be right.


Im looking at the actuator and the sector gear?
And does anyone know if the actuator is different for tiltand nontilt columns?

[swampedout]

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/ford/old-ignition-actuators.php

Here is a parts breakdown.
Im hoping I can find what I need at Napa even if its aftermarket.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have 'Standard Automotive Products' cylinders.
The rack you can get from Dorman, maybe even in the HELP section.

[swampedout]

Yup I have a new (cheap) lock cylinder and I can get the actuator about anywhere.
My main concern is Ill need that gear  but I wont know until I open up and expose the carnage.
I might be checking the junkyards this weekend for steering columns
Otherwise online
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Steering/Steering-Column-Parts/Original-Steering-Column-Lock-Gear-7-5-1973-1978-Mustang.axd
Same part number as what I see elsewhere but 50 bucks less. Discontinued by ford.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Your "cheap cylinder" didn't come with the gear already installed?

[swampedout]

https://m.autozone.com/interior/ignition-lock-cylinder/locksmart-ignition-lock-cylinder-lc14060/12457_0_0?location=

Its just that rectangular pin at the end. Guess Ill return it and find the one you have

Edit
Just found "standard motor products" lock cylinder on rock auto. Loks the same as mine. No gear pictured, unless I misunderstand where the gear is

[kramttocs]

Sounds like the pin at the end of the lock cylinder just snapped. So to replace you'll just have to remove the cylinder, dig out the broken pin that will be inside the gear and replace.

Worst case would be like Jim said and the actuator teeth sheared off. This will be a more involved process but before worrying about that, remove the cylinder and see.

Return the actuator rod to the acc position (all the way up) and then install the new cylinder.
If something is binding though, I'd see about replacing the ignition switch also. Otherwise you'll be in the same boat with the new cylinder.

[swampedout]

I hope its just the pin.  That would be quite a relief.

[swampedout]

Im thinking Im gonna pull the steering wheel this weekend and spray everything i can hit with pb white lithium grease.

[swampedout]

The pin did break off in the gear. Pulled the lock out, got my magnets and grease together to finish the job tmrw.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That is a relief!  

He had asked 'why would it spin if it isn't just the cylinder?"
So the actuator is the correct answer to the question...

Glad it is an easy fix.
And now you know how to hotwire your truck.

[kramttocs]

Great! Glad it was an easy one.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

He had asked 'why would it spin if it isn't just the cylinder?"
So the actuator is the correct answer to the question...

Who are you talking to?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I was agreeing with "Worst case would be like Jim said and the actuator teeth sheared off. This will be a more involved process but before worrying about that, remove the cylinder and see."

That it was wise to open it up and see, before assuming the worst.

 But... He had asked what it could be IF it was not just the cylinder.