I need a single V-groove alternator pulley

[Whisler]

I think my long-winded explanation above still isn't very clear. All I would need is for the pulley recess to be deepened so that the measurement from the face of the recess, through the hole, to the end of the lip is 11/16".

 I came up with this number this way. I had a serpentine pulley that allowed me to get the bolt far enough onto the shaft for safety, so I laid it down on a flat surface and measured through the hole from the face of recess to the flat surface and it was 11/16. That same measurement with your pulley should be fine.

Hope this is more clear.

 I appreciate this greatly. Thank you

[ArdWrknTrk]

Whisler,
If you use a flange nut instead of a nut *and* washer the threads start with your 'washer'.

Mine hasn't slipped even though the 3G shaft is shorter than the old alternator.
I was a little iffy about not having threads projecting from the nut but it seems okay in my case.

[Whisler]

I'm OK with no threads actually projecting from the front of the nut, but with my pulley I can only catch about 2 threads before bottoming out in the recess. If I could get enough thread engagement to bring the the shaft out level with end of the nut, I would be fine. Therefore, I need the recess deepened.

I need the portion of the hub of the pulley that would be in actual contact with the alternator shaft to be 11/16 long, including the lip. Deepening the recess maybe needed. Laying the pulley on the lip, on a flat surface and measuring through the hole, from the flat surface to the inside face of the recess is the crucial measurement.

I think that I misunderstood some of Gary's measurements. When he said the recess was 27/32", I took that to be depth but I think he meant diameter. I don't know the depth of the recess on Gary's pulley or if his front to back measurement (thickness) included the lip, so all my spouting of math in my other post is of no use.

[Gary Lewis]

You were right, the recess is 27/32" deep.  I'm going out to the shop in a bit and will chuck the pulley up and see 'bout making it deep enough that the total shaft engagement is 11/16".

I'm moving slowly this morning.  Think the celebratory eating caught up with me.  Or the late bed time, which was caused by the nap yesterday afternoon, might have been part of the problem.  In any event, I'm on my second cup of Starbucks and enjoying the slow morning.

[Whisler]

Did your front-to back measurement of 1 5/8" include the 1/8" lip?

If so, then the recess  needs to be deepened by 3/32". If not, then it needs to be deepened by 7/32". But please check my math; I have been sick for a week and may not be thinking clearly.

Thanks again for all this.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I included the lip in my measurement.

But, let's start over.  With the pulley front-up on the table, I measure 3/4" (.754" actually) from the rear of the recess to the back of the lip.  And you want it to be a max of 11/16"?

[Whisler]

You are correct.

Sounds like your pulley was much closer to what I needed than what I had.

Talking about coffee made me want a cup, so i think I'll go have one. Hope you enjoyed yours. Now if I could just stop coughing I could enjoy one myself.

Your generosity is much appreciated.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, let's make sure this thing is what you want.  As shown below, my math says originally the bottom of the recess to the back of the lip was .754".  And 11/16" = .6875", so the amount to take off is .0665".  Right?

I wound up at .684", but if that's too short I can send you the shavings so you can glue them back on.  

Anyway, if this is what you want just click on my name and send me an email with your address.  I'll get it out tomorrow.  If not, what changes do you need?





Oh, and here's a shot while I was machining it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,  I was sure that pulley would come in handy.
-This pulley was made for this application-

Thanks so much for paying it forward and helping out a forum participant.  

You are a real stand up guy!

(That's about all I can do without a rep button)

[Gary Lewis]

It is the thought that counts, Jim.  You gave it to me, so it is the least I could do.

Note that I actually enlarged the recess at its base.  Apparently the folks doing the CNC work on these at the factory were in a hurry and pushed the limits of their boring bar, and it flexed when they got to the bottom.  I took off very small amounts since I was only taking off .067" and didn't have any flex.  So, the recess is now a bit truer.  

[Whisler]

That looks great Gary. E-mail sent with address.

I agree with the previous sentiment, you are a stand-up guy. I appreciate your help greatly.

Now I'll be able to say I have a custom built part on my truck and imported (from Oklahoma) at that.

[1986F150Six]

Wow, Gary... 2 cups of coffee really gets you going!

[Gary Lewis]

Dennis/Whisler - Got the email.  No prob.  I plan to send it tomorrow, and may take Darin/Oz's crossmember at the same time.

David - You and I know that the second one is French roast, and that gets just about everything going.  

Now back to gutting The Huck, more of which later - after a badly-needed shower.  

[Gary Lewis]

Pulley is "in the mail".  Email sent on the shipping cost.  Done and dusted, as the Brit's would say.  

[Whisler]

Anxiously awaiting its arrival. You are the Man.

[Gary Lewis]

Hope it fits.  Let us know.

[Whisler]

Gary, the pulley fits fine and looks great, but this 3G install sure has turned out to be an adventure.

First there was the pulley issue, which Gary kindly fixed. Then I found that, when mounting the alternator to the bracket, I did not have enough rotation of the alternator to engage the adjustment arm. The much larger 3G alternator was hitting part of the bracket. This bracket is the huge ugly one used to mount both alternator and AIR pump in "84, except that it had been de-horned to remove the AIR pump bracket ears.

My options were extend the adjustment bracket or grind the upper bracket. Since I don't weld but I do grind , you know where I went. After extensive "clearancing" of the bracket with a Dremel tool, I finally had enough rotation to engage the last few inches of the adjustment slot. (This definitely makes me think that I need to learn to weld.)

Now it's time to install a belt and see what alignment looked like. Let's see, I have belts in 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 41, & 42 in. lengths. So what size do I need? Why 39 inches, of course.

So I stopped for the evening and will pick up a 39" belt in the AM. Wish me luck.

Thanks again to Gary for the pulley and custom modifications, and thanks to my wife for the gift of the Dremel set.  

[Gary Lewis]

Glad it worked!  

As for the other problems, I just typed "While replacing the engine I will also install the ZF5.  And, while that would seem to be a very simple thing, something is bound to require a bit more work than just going back with the T-19."  So, I've been there, done that, and feel your pain.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think this is why many people use the 8.25" C-C 3G off a 3.8 V-6.
The extra 5/8 distance between pivot and the larger 148mm body of the 130A 3G gives them a little more room to swing the alternator in.

[Whisler]

That sounds like a good reason for using the larger C-C alternator but I got what I think was a good buy on this used Mustang V-6 alternator. We will see if it was a good buy when I get everything hooked up and checked out.