Awesome! Thanks!
All the heavy cables in my Suzuki Samurai are 0AWG and 2AWG welding cable. I went that way because at least I know industrial cables are held to a standard, unlike car audio cable. Sure I sacrificed some flexibility, but I wanted cabling that was known to be true to size and properly standardized. I'm in the process of redoing all the battery power/ground cables on the F250 when I found this post. I'm using the same 2AWG Flexoprene welding cable.
Chris
1985 Ford F250 XLT SuperCab ZF5-42 swapped 460 hot fuel, factory AC. Part way through 4WD swap. 1988 Suzuki Samurai -- Daily Driver 1968 Dodge Dart -- Project car 1957 Chevy 4400 Flat Bed -- Collector Project 1955 Buick Century -- Collector Cruiser |
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A lot of us have good things to say about the tinned marine cable from Great Lakes Skipper.
It is very fine and flexible. You can get it with a couple of different insulations.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Yep, that’s what I use.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ok, here's a prelim report on the new TEMco 5 ton crimper. First, here's the crimper in its blow-molded case, along with all the die and the repair kit. And note how dry things are? My old crimper leaked from Day 1.
![]() And here are the first two crimps. Both are, as they proudly say, 10 gauge. The terminal on the left was bare copper and I tinned it myself. The terminal on the right is one of the many Molex terminals I just bought. I used the standard #10 die and the crimp is perfect. Hexagonal with crisp corners, which the manual says is correct for the right die. But w/o the "wings" that the manual says are due to using too small of a die. I'll measure the die and post that info as well as make more crimps and post pics thereof, but as of now I'm a happy camper. This thing can be used one-handed, which means you can hold the wire in with the other hand. It doesn't leak. And it crimps "just right". ![]() ![]()
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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All looks great! Appreciate the review (not that we expected any less
![]() Much better than the yellow one I've been using.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I couldn't keep my head around all those die sets.
![]() But your crimp looks good, and you don't have to source any oddball Magnalugs! ![]()
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Scott -
![]() Jim - Just think that there are die for every wire size, not just the even ones. So, for instance, you have an 11 between 10 and 12. ![]() But you are right, it looks to me like I won't have to use Magnalugs. And while I might want to use them on things like battery cables, I'll bet that I can crimp them w/o the wings I've been getting.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I want to point out something else that I noticed from the picture that I didn't see before. The terminal on the right is one of the new Molex VersaKrimps I ordered from Amazon, while the one on the left is a generic one from my stash. Note the seam on the two terminals. Molex says:
VersaKrimp terminals and splices are as versatile as they are tough. Bonded with a special silver brazing alloy, VersaKrimp brazed-seam terminal barrels simply can not split, remaining terminated under conditions of stress or wire pull. VersaKrimp terminals can be crimped from any direction.Here's the picture again: ![]()
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Found a new use for my 5-ton crimper this morning. The cable connecting the two safeties on my lift broke so I ordered some new cable and sleeves. I installed the cable this morning and crimped sleeves on each end to ensure the cable doesn't unravel or pull out of the safeties. Can you tell what die I used?
![]() ![]()
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I'm surprised the cable gave out.
It doesn't seem like a high stress application
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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It broke where the screw captures it in the safety. I didn't crank down as hard on it this time, but I got 100' and it only takes 20, so if it breaks this time I'll figure something else out.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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