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The one I used came from RockAuto and was remanufactured by Autoline [Canada]. The mounting holes were original and required an easy modification using a round file.
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In reply to this post by Minkheel
I'll defer to Bill on this as he knows more about it, but you have to be careful what carb you get. EGR started being introduced in the early 1970's, and it was done on passenger cars, then light-duty trucks, and then heavier trucks. So there were times when an F100 or F150 would have EGR and an F350 wouldn't. IOW, make sure the carb fits an early 70's F350.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I should have included that, Gary. [1970 F350]
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And just to be clear -- since I am a super newbie -- the carb that fits a 1970 F350 L6 300 ci will also fit (I mean directly bolt on to) the L6 300 ci engine in my F150? On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 11:36 AM 1986F150Six [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote: I should have included that, Gary. [1970 F350]
Brian - MinkHeel - Charlotte, NC
1984 F150, 6 cyl, 4 sp manual, Explorer trim
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Yes.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Minkheel
The carburetor mounting bolts on the 1986 are slightly farther apart than the 1970. All it takes to adjust this is to use a small round file and elongate the holes. I used a new carb to manifold gasket as the template and laid it against the base of the carburetor. That revealed where to remove metal... it took an easy 15 minutes.
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This post was updated on .
This is the same discussion we had with George, re: the 2-5/8" V 2-15/16" C-C YF EGR valve and carburetor spacers.
So it should be 5/32" or just over 1/8" per side.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
I know the difference in push start and computer controlled dwell modules.
At least the earlier PS modules will run with the spout removed, if you're REALLY stuck with a crapped out ECU. I've seen more than a couple of HEI modules running with a couple of fins broken or cut out of the trough of a remote TFI heatsink. These guys typically are using 90* insulated connectors. Yes it's savage (or Redneck) but it does keep them cool enough to keep going for years. I suppose it depends what you have in the bucket in the shed, or what's up on blocks in the sideyard...
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
I really appreciate all of the guidance, gentlemen. I will be ordering the 1970 F350 carb as well as a HEI ignition system in the next couple of days. I am tremendously excited about getting my new old truck running better and back on the road. On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 2:04 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote: I know the difference in push start and computer controlled dwell modules.
Brian - MinkHeel - Charlotte, NC
1984 F150, 6 cyl, 4 sp manual, Explorer trim
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Let us know how it comes along
Nick and George
1986 1/2 F150 XLT Lariat 4X2 300 Six - C6 - 3:08 in a 8.8 - Fully Loaded - 8 Foot Box Owned since new |
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