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Completely understood. I think the dowel rod would be a simple temp solution. Haven't ever tried poking anything up there but from when I had mine disassembled it seems like it would work.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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Steve, don't I know that!
But you're on the right track, and if you have to leave the defroster wedged open until spring, so be it. I've used some kind of self adhesive webbing to make a check valve for my buddy's forge bellows. That stuff had the acrylic adhesive you find on foil duct tape and it hasn't let go in six years of use. (I have NO idea how many cycles that is, but it's WAY more than that door will ever see.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Jim - Are you saying that the self-adhesive webbing would work for a hinge? That might be an excellent idea!
I was able to put a hinge in Big Blue's door while everything was in the truck, but it was a huge pain. HUGE! However, I think you could reach in and stick a piece of webbing on.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I don't know if the hinge on your defroster plenum needs offset, but if it doesn't and you can get the plastic clean, this stuff sticks tenaciously.
Like I said it's been six years and Steve steps on that pedal all day. Plus, I don't think a plenum gets any more heat than a coal forge. I don't have a link, but I will try to find that stuff again if you think it could help in this situation.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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If you put it over the hinge that's there then I think that would give the offset. Maybe others can say?
But if I was able to reach in there and do my work surely it is possible to clean the plastic and slap a bandage on.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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If you can get it on exactly right.
Because once that a adhesive hits it isn't going ANYWHERE.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Steve. In our case , we work outside as well, fortunately it was summer when the dash was pulled. Do what you need to do to get the door moved into position.
I do like Jim's idea about the webbing though, it may be worth a thought, that is if you can get to it. Never really tried to get to it in Brutus, we knew the dash had to be pulled which brings me to that stupid cowl by the windsheld. We now have screen under there, but it had collected so much dirt and debris over the years It was caked down in there, everywhere, the whole plenum had to be removed and cleaned.
Nick and George
1986 1/2 F150 XLT Lariat 4X2 300 Six - C6 - 3:08 in a 8.8 - Fully Loaded - 8 Foot Box Owned since new |
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I used some 3M fiberglass "tape" that I got from a friend at the airport (398FR) they use it to seal cargo holds.
But I think commonly available Velcro loop tape with the acrylic adhesive would be strong and stick just as well. https://www.fabricsupply.com/products/velcro-hook-and-loop-acrylic-adhesive-backed-2-inch/
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Yep, like a bad penny, I am back. Things changed with the weather and my health. Long story short, had a heart attack in Oct and as an emergency deal they put in a stent and did one angioplastie(spelling). I was supposed to get two more stents after healing some, I was trying to go back to work but the Dr wont release me untill I get the stents. That is not going to happen untill this COVID crap is over. So here I am stuck in limbo.
I did drag the dash out of the Bronco so I could change the dirvirter door as it arrived on Christmas eve. Now I was told that this was a NOS door, it arrived in two boxes. The box that had the door in it came from TASCA Ford and has a manufacture date on the tag of 12/11/20. When I called them to find out what was going on, I was told that the door is NEW, not NOS. The reason I am doing this is that some of you have repaired these doors and I was wondering if you had pictures of the repairs and could post them here so I could see what you have done and I can make those same kind of repairs to the "NEW" door before I put it back together. Jim, I am deffenatly interested in that mesh you were talking about.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC |
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Steve, sorry about the health related issues. Glad you're doing well though.
I rebuilt my door. The OEM part you purchased was like $125 when I was looking for it and knowing it would eventually fail, I was prompted to address the repair with a better hinge. So, with you having the new door, not sure what you need. It looks like you're there already. Door slides in, hooks to the lever on the vacuum actuator and is secured by three or four screws. Your old broken blend door should have those nut plates on it. Am I missing something in your request? I can probably provide some pictures. Curious, can I ask what that new blend door was? Ohhhh....while you have all that apart, can you shoot a picture of where the ground is for the fuel tanks? My gauge is not working and I'm told there is a ground back behind the radio.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
John, even tho it is a "new" door, I want to see what you guys did to repair yours and add that repair to my new door so I wont have to ever worry about it again.
This "New" door was listed for 65.00 but not through TASCA. Yes, I will take that ground picture and post it tomorrow
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC |
Sorry to hear about the health issues, at least the weather looks ok for you to tackle this. It is on my list for the spring.
1985.5 F-150 XL Explorer standard cab 5.0 EFI AOD 4x4
Daily Driver. We call her Eunice the Ute. 1982 Bronco XLT Lariat 351W AOD 4x4 Code name Esperanza, or Espy to her friends. Please see my Project thread for the blow by blow. 1984 F-350 XL Centurion crew cab 460 T19 4x4 "Eylza Dual-little" |
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In reply to this post by old55pete
Welcome back and sorry to hear about the other. Check out that link I added in post #4 of this thread. That will get you all the photos you need.
I wouldn't do anything to your new one though. If you are wanting to make the 'fix' modifications, do that to your broken one.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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Steve - So sorry to see you have health issues. Especially of that magnitude.
But I agree with Scott - do you mods to the old door. The mod will put the pivot point in a different location than the hinge if you use the new door. That's because the two hinges can't be in the same location. And that may cause the door to bind.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by old55pete
Steve, the best source for how to repair the blend door is on the FTE forums. Kyle, the gentlemen that did it, posted up a full tutorial on it and I took from it. Interestingly, he did not pull the dash away like we did and I wasn't even going to attempt his approach in that. A few more bolts and it pulls away to remove the duct work. Regardless, his tutorial and the door rebuild is on the site linked below. I did my repair exactly as he did his. Just scroll down till you find it. It worked out great for me!
Here's the link: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1486377-how-to-repair-the-ac-vent-door-hinge.html I think I may still have some of the hinge I used to make that repair left. Shoot me an email with your address and I'll send it to you.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
Got it, thanks John.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC |
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