OK weld thru primer burns away. So don't think it will be perfect there. For that reason I usually don't use it. But I have no issue if someone does. I try to get into areas with something after the welding, if at all possible. You can pour a material like Master Series, into an area and let it flow. There are materials specifically made for internal areas as well. I use MS in post any place. I even coat pieces with it before I weld, similar to what you are doing.
Rosettes or plug welds . . I would never go smaller than 1/4". It would be too easy to bridge the hole without getting penetration. So either 1/4 or 5/16 is typical. With 5/16 you can really know you are penetrating before you actually fill the hole. Those welds shown look really nice, albeit a little low. Sure it creates the right look, but the strength could be a bit weak because if the thin area actually doing the holding. I treat it like an ice cream cone :) I start in the middle for the puddle, then make a circular motion to fill the hole. This is much like putting soft ice cream in a cone. At least that is how I think of it : If anyone wants some clarification ask away.)
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
Thanks Pete! I actually welded those in the opposite direction you're suggesting. I went around the edge of the hole and then filled up the middle, but I will try some like you're suggesting. If I make the welds a little higher, what grit disks do you recommend to smooth them out a little afterwards?
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold. 1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021. 1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995 |
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In reply to this post by PetesPonies
Yes, thanks Pete!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Rembrant
As Gary suggested a coarse flap disc should do it. I use them on a 4 1/2 angle grinder. Sometimes very little grinding is needed. It depends on whether you're trying to hide the weld or just leave it factory looking.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
In reply to this post by Rembrant
OK, so I just came back to report that attaching the first stake pocket seems to have been a success. As I do further work on this bed I'll switch back over to my own project thread, but since you guys offered up some advice on the welding I figured I'd report back on the progress.
I tested some 3M weld-thru primer and yes you can certainly weld through it, but man does it cause some splatter until you burn through it. Anyway, I did use it on the stake pocket, but I cleaned it off where I'd be welding to make life easier. I went a bit clamp happy as you can see, but it went better than I expected. I had to squeeze the pocket a bit to pull the flanges in. Most people probably wouldn't notice, but there's not much of a gap between the stake pocket flanges and the ends of the fiberglass fenders. I am going to grind the welds down flush or almost flush before painting.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold. 1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021. 1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995 |
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Personally, you can't have too many clamps on a part. And yours look just right. Plus, those welds look excellent! Well done.
By the way, just go into edit mode on your post, copy all, and then paste that into your thread.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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this is amazing, looks great!
86 5.0 AOD 2WD flareside
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