Farm Truck project kicks off with a driveshaft question

[Gary Lewis]

You used epoxy resin?  Does it appear to have stuck well to the casting?

[ArdWrknTrk]

The Brick nose trucks have the same firewall tearing issues. (Even after they went to the diagonal bolt placement w/ the clutch safety mounted on the inside of the master cylinder)
While I don't have any super duper steering column I did adapt a later (2014) lower column that uses universal joints at each end to do away with my problematic rag joint at the steering box.
I hope your fiberglass fix works out as you hope.  

[RenoHuskerDu]

We used polyester resin from the hardware store. Nuttin' fancy!
But yes clearly it's an epoxy, 14 drops of hardener to each ounce of resin.

Stinks and causes headaches...even using it outdoors.

[Gary Lewis]

Actually, just because you add a hardener doesn't mean it is an epoxy.  This site says "There are three main types of Resins used today for use with Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, and Aramid (Kevlar). These are Epoxy, Vinylester, Polyester Resins."  And it is my understanding that all three require a hardener.

You might want to read the description there on the strengths of the different resins.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If it stinks it is polyester and not epoxy.
You are smelling the styrene monomer evaporating.

Epoxies typically have no VOC's which is one reason they are the preferred matrix for composites.
Well, that and they are strongly adhesive and not nearly as brittle as polyester resins.

Polyesters use a catalyst. Typically benzoyl peroxide with cobalt napthanate as an accelerant.
Epoxies are two part (resin & hardener) both of which crosslink to create a polymer. These typically mix in the range of 1:1-1:5.

Edit: Gary, there is a difference between hardener and catalyst..
Catalyst's promote the cross-linking of a monomer, but are not a part of the polymer.
Hardeners do become a major part of the product and often influence cure speed or properties of the product.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bill.  I sit corrected.  And happy to learn.  

[RenoHuskerDu]

I crawl corrected too.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not looking to correct anybody.  

Just trying to share some insight as to how these materials differ and what their attributes are.

[Gary Lewis]

Reno - I was wrong 'cause I used the wrong terminology.  But the bit about strength still stands.  You might want to read that page in the link.  

[RenoHuskerDu]

Interesting article.  Sounds like polyester is only good for fiberglass. And the author holds it in low esteem.

In my case it's being used to strengthen an existing pot metal casting so any improvement is a plus. We'll keep an eye on it.

[RenoHuskerDu]

Farm Truck's been taking up prime carport real estate for a while. Waiting on parts, using NAPA, RockAuto, fleabay and CarID.  CarID has great prices and will beat RockAuto if you call them. But delivery is slower.  Finally got motor mounts yesterday. I guess the cooties virus kills motor mounts too.

Nasty surprise bolting on the flywheel. The first bolt we tried to torque, at 30 ftlbs, stretched then broke.  NAPA doesn't have any in stock.  Has anybody had this kind of issue?

The remaining 8 flywheel bolts sound like hardened steel when dropped on concrete. They ring. The one that broke sounds like it wasn't steel. Thud.  I wonder if there is just one defective bolt in the bunch that came with the Sachs clutch/flywheel. We'll try the others and see if I need to buy all 9 or just one.



Looking at the flywheel bolts on RockAuto, clearly they are different. They list bolts that are 900/1000" but the bolts that we have about about 2", and we know they are correct because we still have the old ones.

RockAuto flywheel bolt listing

[Gary Lewis]

That's a bummer!  But those shouldn't be standard hardware-store bolts.  They should be "place bolts":

Place bolts (or Type AA Hex Lock Bolts) have a special head design that provide a "locking" action between the head of the bolt and the material being clamped. The combination of the recess under the head of the slots in the top of the head cause the head to flex as it is tightened.

So you need to find the correct replacement to ensure they don't back out.

[85lebaront2]

Look at your head markings (if any) Chinesium counterfeits won't have any. Grade 5 = 3 slashes, Grade 8 = 6 slashes. Metric will have a rating like 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 higher being stronger. Lubricant used can also cause bolts to break.

[ratdude747]

The lack of ringing is likely due to the broken bolt being smaller; it's harmonic frequencies changed due to being smaller, thus making it not ring.

I'm used to flywheel/flexplate bolts having fine threads... fine threads can hold more torque. If it's what your crank uses, then so it goes, but that coarse of a thread seems odd here.

[RenoHuskerDu]

The bolt that broke came with the Sachs clutch.  I took it, an unbroken new bolt, and one of the old ones we'd previously pulled out. Took all three to NAPA and as usual I left with a solution.

They matched up grade 8 bolts that were only a hair shorter. They're in the back of the crank now, successfully torqued to 49 ftlb, with sealant on the threads.

Life is sweet.  Can't wait to hear that 445 fire up.  Soon now.

[RenoHuskerDu]

We got Farm Truck started last night with his 1993 IDI 444 cid. Fully converted now to ZF5. I sold that C6 for $700 btw. We also converted to serpentine belt. That leaves us an extra 3G alternator with Vbelt drive for the parts shelf, probably for Poncho Loco later.  Pics below.

The bumper we intend to put on him is heavy, but I'd already installed +2"/+200lb coils from a source I recommend (ask if interested). So he's ready for the better bumper, which came off an 89 F250 gasser parts truck. However it appears that we'll need to either squeeze the front frame rails together, or re-weld a mount plate on the bumper. When it came off the parts truck, it was a tight fit but it was bolted on there. Do you suppose it's OK to simply pull the rails together 1/4" to get the bumper on? We'd loosen the front body mounts at the radiator support first.



My K9 assistants


Here's the finished XLT Lariat interior. I'd never attempt a ZF5 conversion without a ZF donor parts truck. We used it a lot. Still we needed to visit junkyards twice.


My son the ranch hand did this, YEEHAW


Engine bay looking pretty clean. I could not find a replacement stock air snorkel, so settled for a silicone one from Bezoszon,  coming soon they say. Sharp eyes will spot the new coolant filter system, bypassed for now until we flush out the rust a couple times.  I found a good deal on Wix filters and kits and bought a few, will filter all IDI and PSD trucks eventually.

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!  You are really making good progress, and it looks great.  And I agree that a donor vehicle is the only way to go.  You can't imagine all the things that I've had to go back to it to get when I've done swaps.

On the frame, you'll be fine squeezing the frame that much.  Big Blue's frame rails were off 1 1/8", as described in this post.  You can see in this post what it took to straighten it.

From what I can tell the frames should measure 40" outside/outside, so I'm guessing that yours measure 40 1/4" - right?  That's not much and you'll be surprised how much flex there is in the frame rails.  You'll probably have to take them in at least 1/2" to get them to stay in the 1/4" when you take the force off them.