Factory wiring locations for adding additional circuits

[kramttocs]

When adding new circuits to my truck that rely on some factory function (like hot in run), it's always nice to find a clean way to do it that looks factory.

These locations may be unused in your truck and if so, might provide an easy way to add a circuit or trigger a relay. Some truck configurations will be using some or all of these.

Please visit the EVTM or ask a question on the forum if you are unsure.

NOTE: Remember to ensure you aren't overloading the wires. Use relays and fuses when appropriate.

These first two take wedgelock terminals and the connectors are used in various other locations in the truck so finding a mate for these on a parts/jy truck isn't hard.

1. Digital Clock connector C125
Location: behind instrument panel, near radio
 
This provides you with:

BR: 12v when lights are on
LG/Y: hot at all times
W/P: hot in accy or run
BK: ground


Examples:
The BR is a good relay trigger for aux lights like fog lights

I am using the W/P wire for my GVOD controller. A few accessories don't want power in crank so this is a good circuit for that.



2. Throttle Kicker connector C327
Location: behind lower left hand side of instrument panel


This provides you with:

R/LG: hot in start or run but not a full 12v in run
R/Y: hot in start or run
BK: ground




3. Aux Fuel Tank Selector Switch. Fuse Panel 15. This one is nice because it's located in the fuse panel and you can't get much more of a factory look than that.
This should be available for any single tank truck or a 460 w/ electric pumps.
You can pull the Red wire from a truck that does have it or make your own (*terminal part number needed*).

This provides you with:
R (or custom): Hot in Start or Run

It is the 10A fuse in this photo

Press up on the tab holding in the bottom terminal and pull the wire from behind



4. Fuse Panel 7
Hot at ALL times but only if there is a fuse/circuit breaker in position 12. Because this gets power through position 12, load will be added to that fuse as well

5. Fuse Panel 10
This does not contain a terminal in either slot i.e never hot without custom wiring

6. Fuse Panel 13
This does not contain a terminal in either slot i.e never hot without custom wiring

7. Body Marker Lamps C915
Location: below junction block (beside brake booster) in engine bay


This is present and unused if you have the Trailer package but no side marker lamps (ie not a dually pickup)
This provides you with:

W/R: 12v when lights are on (relay based)
BK and White: ground

[Gary Lewis]

That's very helpful, Scott.    Well done!

We need to figure out where to put this kind of info so people don't have to use the search functions.  Any ideas?

[kramttocs]

Hey Gary,
I am not really sure there is a better place for stuff like this. It's the kind of thing that people likely won't be on the lookout for so as long as a few people know about it then whenever someone, for example, posts about needing to add a new 'hot in run' add on circuit, maybe it will be remembered and can be provided as an option. Just my thoughts.

[Gary Lewis]

You can remember where it is, I'll remember we have it and know how to look for it.  

[kramttocs]

Works for me!

[kramttocs]

Added some fuse panel options

[kramttocs]

To elaborate on the option about using an open fuse slot...

As I mentioned in #1, I was using that for my GVOD. Worked fine but I didn't like 1) having it on in ACC and 2) I don't like having fuses hidden away if I can help it (this was the main reason).

I decided that I wanted the fuse for the overdrive in the fuse block.

I ordered some fuse block connectors but they turned out to be too small so am still unsure of where to obtain new ones.

Ended up pulling two wires/terminals from my spare harness. I pulled the Y/LB for the horn/cigar as it was a larger one and then the one for the Fuel Tank Selector


At the top of the fuseblock is a GY/Y wire that is Hot in Run. It feeds fuses 5 and 9 therefore it's a double terminal strip. Since the GY/Y wire only takes up one, you are left with an extra input on the backside
 

The wire crimp section was tight enough I couldn't spread it open but the strain relief part can be used.
I soldered on the end of the short, larger Y/LB wire I pulled from the spare fuse block and then inserted the terminal into one leg of fuse slot 13



I then inserted the R wire I pulled into the other leg and ran it to my GVOD controller
You can see the two wires at the bottom with the Y/LB running to the top and the Red running 'out'

[you can also see the Hazard flasher adapter that really helps with the taller LED flasher]



Now the 3 amp GVOD fuse is located at the bottom of the block beneath the power lock cb.

[Gary Lewis]

Well done, Scott!!  

I, too, don't like having fuses hidden away.  Who is going to know where to find them when problems occur?  So I applaud taking the time to put the fuse in the fuse box.

As for soldering to the terminals, that's exactly how I do it as I've also found that these terminals are crimped so tightly that you'll destroy them is you try to get them open.

[kramttocs]

You're exactly right about tearing them up
I experimented first on one I pulled out of the spare and it wasn't happening.
I am still looking for replacement terminals for anyone else that might feel like doing this but doesn't have a spare block.

BX2091C does not work.

[swampedout]

Thanks for putting this together!
This is exactly what I need.

[kramttocs]

Glad to hear it! If you come up with good uses for them or other locations like this, let us know.

[FuzzFace2]

You said in a post of a fuse tap was to small what was meant of that?
I ask because yesterday when adding the air fuel ratio gauge (temp install till I get the AFR dialed in) my son had a few different sizes fuse taps in his stash.

You pull a fuse from the box it has 2 spades that go in where a fuse would be in the box.
Then it has 2 places to install fuses and a pig tail.
1 fuse would be the one you pulled to install this tap and protects the wiring of the box like it did before.
The other fuse, "the tap", would take a new fuse and feeds the "pig tail" to feed what ever.

He had 3 sizes: a micro fuse, mini fuse and normal fuse sizes.
Being I have only normal fuse size as spares that is what I went with.
Google search came up with this from Amazon - this is a mini fuse so check when looking.
https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=pd_lpo_263_img_2/147-4235120-3914356?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DYQM6EO&pd_rd_r=cec84910-89d3-4657-9462-98bfd3db4eb7&pd_rd_w=E8kXU&pd_rd_wg=J8c6X&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=S9X8XJ76V8MQ6H1GW6V5&psc=1&refRID=S9X8XJ76V8MQ6H1GW6V5
We were able to pick a spot that when installed we could put the fuse box cover back on.
Yes I still have the cover.
Dave ----

[kramttocs]

Hey Dave - not sure if you're asking me as I don't recall that but if fused correctly I see no problem with them and have used them on occasion for testing. Not something I've used as a semipermanent solution but that's due to form not function.

[FuzzFace2]

Not really to you but I think you posted about a fuse tap in 1 of the posts and why I brought it up.
I would not run 30 amps through the tap but the 2 things I am using it for, think it was a 20 amp fuse I pulled and needed to run a 10 amp fuse on the tap side.
I used the ACC fuse in the box and don't think I have all that much on the truck side as it is a Custom model with vary little ACC LOL

Just wanted to post it as an option is all.
Dave ----

[kramttocs]

Ah 💡
Probably this:

"I ordered some fuse block connectors but they turned out to be too small so am still unsure of where to obtain new ones."

I was referring to a crimp on terminal that snaps into the back of the fuse block like from the factory. Something to make use of the empty spots that would then allow someone to use a fuse that looks like it came that way from the factory. I found some but they didn't fit in the fuse blocks in our trucks and haven't ever found new ones that do work. I've had to reuse some from another truck and solder my wires to them.

[FuzzFace2]

kramttocs wrote

Ah 💡
Probably this:

"I ordered some fuse block connectors but they turned out to be too small so am still unsure of where to obtain new ones."

I was referring to a crimp on terminal that snaps into the back of the fuse block like from the factory. Something to make use of the empty spots that would then allow someone to use a fuse that looks like it came that way from the factory. I found some but they didn't fit in the fuse blocks in our trucks and haven't ever found new ones that do work. I've had to reuse some from another truck and solder my wires to them.

Yes so I miss what you were saying.

I do have a question?
How is that "new" wire getting power? I seen one of the connectors had a "jumper" between the 2 wires.
Was that out of the working truck or pulled from the spare box and again where was it getting power from?

Next time I am in my container with the wiring harness I will have to take a closer look at the back side of the box.
Dave ----

[kramttocs]

Let me know if this explains it better.

What you're looking at in the photo with me holding the two terminals bridged together with the large wire and small wire is the red square box in the photo below.
Originally it just had the GY/Y wire the red arrow is pointing to.
The two terminals are the hot side of fuses 9 and 5.
I soldered the smaller wire (green in the diagram) to the backside of 9 (or 5. Can't recall) and then ran it to an empty hole in the fuse box.
The smaller wire was from a parts truck fuse box and the end not seen in that photo has a single terminal on it so it snapped into an empty hole (A).
Then I took another single terminal wire from the parts fuse box, snapped it in the other empty hole (B), and ran it to whatever needs power.
Stuck a fuse bridging A and B and the fuse now has power in Run because of the GY/Y factory wire.