F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know what the options are here.  Scott sells me the gas he thinks I need and I don't ask questions.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, Jonathan, go see if this helps: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1996 EVTM.  I'll say more about it in the Merry Christmas thread....  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here's a very talented old Newfie who says he uses straight CO2 as well.  
https://youtu.be/qScAlxb34UA

Maybe this helps?

It certainly is easier if you can get a fill anywhere they sell fountain soda or paintball equipment.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

As someone who just went through two bottles of gas in my MIG I'm going to say neither is good for sheet metal.

Co2 is great for thick sections in a production environment.
It's cheap, it helps keep the arc stable and it concentrates a lot of heat in the weld pool.

Argon is not so easy to keep the arc stable without a tungsten.
With wire feed the wire is always burning back and this matters a lot.

If I were to go get a tank for doing bodywork and welding up to... say 1/4" I would get 75/25 Ar/CO2.
It's a pleasure to weld with this stuff.

Do you buy or rent a tank?
I own my 80 c.f. and only swap it out.
If you decide to do this you'll probably pay premium for a shiny new tank, and never see it again.
Buying used (with a current cert) is the rational choice to me.

If you use gas every day, or have a 125 or bigger you may have to rent.
State laws about cylinders vary.

I have used flux core, CO2 & Argon mix.
The CO2 gives a better weld than flux core and Argon gives a better weld than CO2.
The CO2 fell off the truck so when empty I don't think I can get it filled.
The Argon thank I bought as it made more cense as it would sit maybe for years before needing to be refilled. Why pay rent for something just sitting on the welding cart?

I have never heard of brittle welds with Argon mix.

My 81 F100 also have both doors cracked and that little brace were broken on both doors.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

In some states Dave, you're not allowed to own welding gas cylinders, or cylinders over a certain size.

[Ford F834]

I don’t have much of an update per se, but I did get the F Superduty moved into our fenced yard and parked where I want to work on it.

I also pulled the bezel and instrument cluster to have a look at the wiring in the dash. It was too dark for pictures, but I don’t like what I saw. There are a ~lot of cut wires that were snipped off at the connectors to run the aftermarket gauges. There are other hacks also... for work lights on the service body, a spot light on the A pillar, a viper car alarm, an electric transfer pump to move fuel from the rear tank to the front tank, a grid heater switch for the Cummins, and some other stuff that I don’t know what it is. It may look worse than it is, if most can be left alone and forgotten. With Gary’s addition of the ‘96 EVTM I am confident I could sort out the critical systems and get it running... but it’s looking like a lot of hassle.

I also called a couple automotive lock smiths about the missing ignition key, and they want the vehicle brought in (i.e. towed to them) which isn’t happening. I probably need to find a junkyard column with the key in it, or just bite the bullet and go for the interior swap. I won’t lie, the pedal box support and steering column firewall pass through issues intimidate me, but it might just be worth it in order to throw the haystack of aeronose wiring in the junk pile. I need another 8 lug wheel that holds air (to be able to move the engine donor) so I will probably try the Kingman junkyard tomorrow and see what puzzle pieces I come up with.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jonathan,
Welcome back!

You can get a key cut from the VIN.
If a locksmith won't do that, you can just get a new cylinder for $10. ($25 with both doors included)
That's what I did when my ignition got so worn I didn't need a key anymore.

Without seeing the wiring butchery I can't offer advice.
Getting rid of that Viper would be first order of business if I were trying to keep that dash.
If you intend to keep it be sure to fix that crappy plastic passenger side support before the bouncing and creaking drive you crazy.

I dove in before with "swap in the Brick interior" and I still think it is the rational WTG, but I'm not the one doing it.
The column and support issues don't intimidate me.
Without an engine in the beast (and a complete donor) it seems much more expedient.
Plus you will have everything functional.

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you got it in w/o accident.  Moving it by yourself had to have been a huge hassle.

Not seeing all the electrical issues it is hard to gauge, but if the wires are cut at the plugs that makes it much more difficult to fix.  The last thing that did that to one of my vehicles died of lead poisoning.  (A ground hog.)  So the electrical problems may be a big enough issue to warrant the swap.

On the ignition, can you pull the column and take it to the locksmith?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, it's going to cost more than a whole new set of lock cylinders to have a 'smith pick it and cut a blank by hand.

I mean, I get the idea, but you're still left with a 26 year old cylinder and a key that isn't ideal.

When you can buy the set of three on Amazon (delivered) for what's probably less than the fuel to drive to the locksmith.

[Gary Lewis]

But he has to get the old cylinder out of the column before installing the new cylinder.  How do you do that w/o a key?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I know how it works with a bull or brick nose.
I'd assume an aeronose is much the same...

Take a pair of channel locks and twist the chrome bezel right off.
Pop the cylinder out using any key.

There are instructions all over the internet.
I'm sure you can even find a few YouTube videos.

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't know that.  IIRC, Huck's column is damaged at the lock, and I assumed it was due to them struggling to get the cylinder out.

[85lebaront2]

Aeronose is totally different, the column is a "stub" column. Easiest way to get a key, take the door lock cylinder out, same key and it may have a Ford code stamped on it, should be driver's side but no guaranty on it. Worst case, take the column out. Lower dash cover, column covers (at the wheel) and unplug the combination switch plug and the ignition switch plug. Column mounting nuts are 13mm, I use an old 1/2" deepwell that is worn enough to fit over them.
 
Here is a picture of mine with the attachments noted:

[1986F150Six]

You offer a wealth of knowledge, Mr. Vose!

[85lebaront2]

Thank you, I have been down some of these rabbit holes before.

[Gary Lewis]

1986F150Six wrote

You offer a wealth of knowledge, Mr. Vose!

Yes, he certainly does!  I like the door lock idea.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Knowing the Aero trucks did away with the oval key (that is bitted the opposite way) is what lead me to change all three at once.

I could have keyed them alike to my old cylinder, but my ignition key was smooth as a baby's bottom.

[85lebaront2]

When I lost the only key I had for the 1995 Continental, I just carried the column less wheel to the locksmith.

[Ford F834]

Thank you gentlemen for your knowledge! I definitely learned a few things. I did not realize that the door and ignition were one key in 1995. That’s a plus in my book. One locksmith I called mentioned something about needing to verify the VIN of the vehicle against a title and photo ID so I assumed I couldn’t get out of towing it in, but it might be worth calling around especially if I could simply bring in a door cylinder. That being said, if there is a DIY method of removing the column cylinder without damaging the column, that would be the cheapest and give me new keys/lock cylinders. I just assume auto makers attempted to make that as difficult as possible to deter theft.

As for the wiring, here are some snap shots of what I am working with...

















I know you can’t follow a diagram with these photos but it gives you an idea of the general condition and the workmanship of the previous owner(s). Anything could be repaired with enough effort, but it’s messy...

[ArdWrknTrk]

Uffff!    

I can't see being able to make that mess right.

If you're going to the pick'n pull maybe you could strip an entire harness?

Yes, the locksmith would have to ask for title, otherwise anyone could read a VIN through the windshield and have a key made.