Electrical issue.

[Matt D]

Just replaced my solenoid because the starter stuck on. Now I'm getting nothing. No dash lights, radio, headlights,etc. If I bypass with the two large terminals, it cranks but dies when I remove connection. Did I wire this solenoid wrong? There was no wire on Ignition terminal on my old solenoid by the way.
Motorcraft solenoid

[Matt D]

[Matt D]

Not sure why the image came in upsidedown

[Ray Cecil]

All, this is my friend Matt who owns the old Wood Flatbed 86 build.

So, for some context, it's an 86 302 c6 efi truck.

Welcome to the forum Matt. Hope you stick around here and have some fun sharing your tinkering with everyone else.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1251778-wood-flatbed-build-3d-model-and-construction-plans-22.html

[taskswap]

Post the part number for it. I can't find a Motorcraft solenoid that has four posts instead of three. Maybe you have a variant that requires a ground. (That empty post in your pic.)

[Matt D]

[Matt D]

The empty post is marked "I". Pretty sure it's "ignition". There was nothing on the post before I replaced it.

[Ray Cecil]

Matt, post all the symptoms from when the problem started until now. That solenoid should case ground to the inner fender, at least I would think so. Try making sure the mounting flanges on the solenoid have a good clean contact surface on the fender. May or may not help, but worth a shot.

[81-F150-Explorer]

A Few questions:

The RED colored cable, is that the cable that goes to the battery Positive terminal?
The Black Cable, is that the cable that goes to the starter?

If it is, it looks like you have your fuse links on the WRONG side or post of the solenoid.

This would be causing your symptoms.

A Better picture of the solenoid and battery connections could be of help.

Hope this helps.

[Matt D]

I took a wire brush to the area, washers/screws, etc. Before I took the solenoid off, the truck would randomly try to turn over without the key. (Scary when your under the hood) I'm going to inspect all my cables, but they are relatively new.

[Matt D]

Red (closest to battery) good to battery. Black goes to starter. I'll try the other way.

[mat in tn]

this will solve the issue im certain

[Matt D]

I switched the cables, still no power. I switched them back though because it was hard to manipulate the wires the other way. I'm getting 12.2v to the solenoid. I know I'm getting 12.2 on the battery, but I still think maybe the battery could be the issue? I'm sure I liked some cells having that ignition stuck for a while.

[81-F150-Explorer]

From the original picture,

You need to switch the fuse links (The smaller wire eyelets) connected to the black cable lug, and switch those fuse links to the Red cable Lug, without moving the larger cables around.  The Fuse links need to be on the same lug as the Red Cable.

The fuse links need 12V constant battery power, an the way they are hooked up in the original picture, they are on the wrong side of the solenoid.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Agreed!
You don't need to swap the big cables, you need to put all the fuse links on the stud with the battery cable.

[Ray Cecil]

Thanks guys, Matt said he had to go to a business party, and will get back to this tomorrow.

Hopefully having them switched around didn't blow any fuses.

[Matt D]

That did it! I'm really not sure why six Sigma allowed me to be an industrial Electrician for two years. Haha. I owe you one bud.

[Ray Cecil]

But it still runs like dog turds though, right?

Matt said it dies at idle, and he will get back at it next weekend.

I know he cleaned the throttle body and IAC. I'm pretty sure he hasn't touched the timing. So....I'm thinking possible MAP, TPS, TPI module, distributor issue, vacuum leak.

Matt, I'd look and listen for a vacuum leak first, since that should be easy to find and fix.

[81-F150-Explorer]

Just "Pay" it forward to the next guy/gal that might need your help next time.

I'm just glad I can help.