Edelbrock on a stockish 460?

[Gary Lewis]

Oh. Again I assumed. And again I was wrong.

[85lebaront2]

Jim, 1987 Omni 2.2L w/Holley 5210, oil pressure sender is a 3 terminal switch, two outside are NO for choke heat, center is oil pressure light. You could put a fitting like the electric pump models do, it is a long hex shaped one with an angle at the end and stick the Omni switch on the side. If I still have the fitting from Darth I will let you know.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I got the carb yesterday.
I need to grind some secondary clearance into the spacer.
Ordered the chrome fuel line


Still waiting on the rebuild kit.
...and the valve covers.

[Gary Lewis]

Is the carb in pretty good shape?

As for the other parts, maybe today so you can work on it tomorrow?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Carb seems in good shape.
I haven't opened it up because the kit isn't here yet.

The valve covers were shipped parcel post...

Both the Eddy and the Trans-Dapt spacer are for spread bore manifolds so I'm going to have to do some filling and grinding.

I also have to find a line to route the PCV to the front.

[Gary Lewis]

I missed that the carb is a spreadbore. Interesting. Does it have extra-large secondaries?  If so, that might mean smaller primaries than the square-bore 650, and give even better part-throttle vacuum.

As for making it fit, been there done that. Added a Q-Jet to a 390 back in '72 on my F250. Helped the MPG and the power. But it did take a lot of grinding - in this case on the cast iron manifold to get reasonably-smooth passages.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The carb has bigger secondaries, but nothing like a Q-jet

The egr block off adapter (and the spacer sold with the carb) are for spread bore manifolds.

I need to fill the spacer with high heat epoxy and reshape it to fit my pink rubber Motorcraft E8TZ-9447-A gasket

[Gary Lewis]

Oh!  Now I think I understand. Got it, got it, ain't got it....  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Kit came today.
Valve covers came today.

Fuel 'log' OTW.

Any gotcha ' s or things to look out for with an AVS carb?
I need to pick up some high heat epoxy for the spacer.
Usually I'd use Coltronics out of Long Island but I don't even know if they exist anymore.
Potted a lot of super spooky military grade electronics in that stuff before.

I think some refractory grade paste epoxy is going to be fine in this case.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know anything to watch out for on an AVS. The Edelbrock manual is excellent, and the carb is pretty simple. 👍

Keep us posted.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,
Is there a link to this Edelbrock manual online?

The pop-up springs were pretty wasted when i finally pulled the needles and pistons out of this carb.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Heres the Owner's Manual

Were you able to salvage the pistons, springs, and rods?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think so.

Obviously I haven't run it yet.
The pop up springs have some pitting that bothers me.

[Gary Lewis]

Pits in the springs may change the point at which the pistons pop up. Replacement springs are available.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well I got it done today.
Sorta.... mostly......

Had a tough time locating the 934 PCV grommet and the breather cap grommet for the plastic elbow that points at the air cleaner.

Finished the spacer conversion this morning,  and sanded the valve cover ribs.
Went to my friends and torched out the A.I.R. spider manifolds.
Dug up a stepped cover stud and single sided fuel connection from his junk box.

Although I thought I set everything up according to the instructions it's evident that the fast idle cam is set way too high and not backing off quick enough.
I just loosened the choke cap and set it so the choke can never come on. (It's August)

I set the mixture screws for highest steady idle and plus 1/8 turn out.
Adjusted idle speed to about 800.

First impressions are that it doesn't pull nearly as hard as the Holley.
But it seems better mannered on transition from trailing to tip in..

My miss is still there, and is noticed coming from the carb as something between a tic and a faintly metallic sound.
I need to investigate. Will have to find a place with shop air so i can bring my leakdown tester.
Stupidly I did not check for loose rockers or bent pushrods while I had the covers off.

It's late.
I've been up since three and at this since 5:30 (except for a trip to the HF tent sale)
TTYL.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm gonna guess the reason it doesn't pull as hard as the Holley is that it is much leaner.  Are we talking part-throttle or WOT?

As for the miss, if the leak-down finds it then it might be a burned valve.  But that wouldn't give the noise, which might be loose rocker or bent push rods.  However, they wouldn't give a miss would they?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Might be leaner. But the 0-80457s is Holley's 'emissions' carb and 600 cfm v/ the Eddy being 650 and jetted for 'off-road'.

I notice this at both part throttle and WFO.
The truck just doesn't pull as hard and seems weak at 80-90 (whatever I could get to due to traffic).

I might try switching vacuum advance sources as well.
Maybe I will set up the advance curve again.
But as with any tuning, you need to establish a baseline first.


I did see something cool that might be of interest to you when I was up on the highway...... ;)

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, you are just going to tease me?  Mention it but don't tell me what it was.

As for the carb and power, can you tell a point in the part throttle acceleration when the power picks up?  Might be easiest to tell with a vacuum gauge on, but it will be the point where the metering rods pop up. Will be between 3" & 8", but varies with the springs in it. If the power picks up some when the rods pop up but you are still down on power then you are lean across the board.

On the secondaries, it is possible they are adjusted such that they aren't opening, or not opening early enough. There should be a set screw and an adjustment screw on the driver's side basically on the end of the secondary air valve's shaft. Hold the adjusting screw, back off the set screw, loosen the adjusting screw a bit, and tighten the set screw. You should be able to get them to open at even low RPM if you get to ~2/3 throttle, and the engine may bog. But at least you know they are working, and you can tighten the setting up to get them to open at what you consider the right point.

And, it is also possible the secondaries are just too lean. I have a kit that may have some jets and rods that will work, although I will have to look. So when you want to start tuning I'll send it to you if it has usable rods and jets.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary Lewis wrote

Ok, you are just going to tease me?  Mention it but don't tell me what it was.

Here's a tease for you..

[ArdWrknTrk]