Eddy Myrtle

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!!!  

Such a good feeling when you finally get to drive it.  And there's always something or somethings, plural, that need to be ironed out.

I think the engine compartment looks great.  Not busy at all.

As for the vibration in 4th, I'm guessing an ignition problem.  Like a bad wired or a bad plug.  Or a wire that's not on fully.  I say that because when you are in 4th at low speeds and trying to accelerate you cause high pressure in the cylinders, which makes it hard for the spark to jump the gap in the plug.  So the spark is looking for somewhere, anywhere to go and if there's a problem that's when it'll show up.

[Gary Lewis]

On the "Insert Image" acting up, do you mean that you can't see the whole of the pop-up?  If that's the case hit Control+ (Control & plus) or Control- (Control & minus) at the same time.  That changes the zoom for the screen either up or down and usually brings the pop-up into view.

I'm not very experienced with the alignment adjustments, so will let other comment on that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Congratulations Rob!     

The brakes are probably because yo retracted the pistons and the keystone section seal is flexed back instead of forward.
That seal is what retracts the piston when you let off the brake.
I always try to bottom them out when doing brake work, so the piston has to slip forward in the seal.
They're usually ok after that.

Was your hood aligned before?
You can drill right through the hinge plates, and use a close fitting punch to get it back to where it was on reassembly.

[Sac79]

Ah, that makes sense about the ignition issue. I might take it to the engine builder and have him check things over. I guess it could also just still be the timing, I put a timing light on it earlier in the week, but the angle really isn't easy(and it's a HF light). So I couldn't tell what it was. I could tell it wasn't TDC or retarded, but not how advanced.

As for 'insert image', no, the pop-up just doesn't appear, as in the little square comes on and then nothing. Previewing the message fixes it, but then you have to scroll and reposition the cursor every time. It normally happens on about the 5th or 6th picture. And has done so ever since I've been posting... Maybe it's been telling me my posts are too long(or too many pictures)!

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting.  5th or 6th picture?  I'll have to try that.

[Sac79]

I had to bottom out the calipers to get them and the pads on the rotors. I used a piece of 2x4 and C-clamp. Regardless, you're saying something is wrong and I either need to replace the seal or whole caliper(I'll probably do the latter). The calipers do retract though. As in if you apply the brakes, you can't turn the wheel(I couldn't see any movement of the pads, but there was obviously braking force), you can as soon as the brakes are released. I tested it while doing the bleeding. I did not think to touch the rotors today after driving. My neighbor thought they would get hot from constant contact. I thought they would wear quickly enough to not be an issue... Not knowing what the issue was, hopeful more than anything else.

[ArdWrknTrk]

No, there's no issue.
The calipers are self adjusting.
The pads only need a thoundnth of an inch not to wear (if the rotor is true)

If you can turn the rotor by hand, gas generation will give the pads a 'cushion' to float on.

Check the hub or lugs for heat after a drive.
If they're not sizzling you're pretty much ok.

[Sac79]

That's great, exactly what I was hoping for Jim. I'll check the temperature next time I take it for a drive.

Gary, I checked my plugs and wires and found at least two wires that weren't as far on as they can be. I also pulled all the plugs and unfortunately found this on all of them...



They're all pretty black with a coat of oil around the rim. I've done some reading and either all my valves are leaking(doubtful but possible) or the rings are still being seated, hopefully the latter. I'm going over to the engine builder on Monday to hear his opinion and have him take a look.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Drive it like you stole it.

You need to put plenty of pressure on those new rings to get them to wear in.

Dyno pulls are always nice but not all of us have the facilities or cash.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree with Jim.  It is doubtful the rings are fully seated.  But even if they are the carbon can be leftover from before.  Anyway, glad you found the wires that were fully seated.  

[Sac79]

Do you mean carbon buildup on the plugs? They are new and have 14 miles and 40min of idling and break-in on them...

Also, I'm not convinced the wires were my problem yet. I hope so. I received the alignment kit(toe plates) last night, I'll check that tomorrow and then go for a test drive. Not sure I'll be driving like I stole it just yet, maybe after I've been to the machine shop.

[Gary Lewis]

The carbon may be from the break-in idling.  And if you don't get it out on the road for an extended period it probably won't burn off.

[Sac79]

That makes sense Gary. I'm not too concerned about the plugs. I'll replace them once I don't see any oil on them.

I tried the DIY alignment kit yesterday as more rain ruined my mowing plans... They were a waste of money. I'll probably return them and eat some humble pie when I return to the tire shop. The instructions says the wheels should be floating above the ground. Which resulted in a slight(3mm) toe in measurement. When I dropped it back down without adjusting I got a toe out(2mm) reading. That's probably got something to do with the TTB suspension. Either way, it's small enough not to bother me, but the main problem is it does not assist in actually pointing both wheels straight ahead! In fairness, it does not claim to do that, not without you added a string 'box' along the vehicle. I'm pretty sure the rear track is narrower than the front, so that would not be straightforward or super accurate either.

Anyway, I'm happy with how it drives, no pulling or wandering, so I'll leave it as is and just keep a close eye on the tire wear. If I see something ominous, I'll eat some pie.

Went on another drive this morning. First the Temp gauge is playing up, with the ignition on it jumped straight to the 'A', once I drove out the driveway it dropped(as in dropped, not slow swing) back down to just above cold. It got up to about the 'N' and stayed there.

I also checked the stove pipe entrance and it was closed, at what temps should that activate?

Then the vibration was significantly less, still present the first few pulls in 3rd and 4th. Probably more to do with the engine still warming up. I drove out to the main road around a loop a few times. After the first loop I started to drive a bit more enthusiastically, not like a stole it, but with some urgency...

The vibration would occasionally be noticeable, but not such that it bothered me. A few pulls were very smooth. After the first drive the other day, I thought all the parts I've thrown at this engine was a waste, but after this morning, I'm much more optimistic. I distinctly remember being a moving roadblock from traffic signals, now not so much. It really pulls in 3rd, not so much in 4th, but by then your average driver is not on my tail anyway.

Anyway, after a few more circuits I decided to go back out to the gas station. I had 22 miles on the odo, add 15%(what I've calculated it to be off), filled with 2.62G after tank showed 3/4... About 9.5Mpg

Well, part of that is what I believe my biggest problem at the moment is. I felt the hubs and rotors at the gas station and well, they're a little hot... I can grip the hubs for a short while, but touching the rotors is really touch and go. I've never felt brake components for heat before, but this seems too hot, especially after not using the brakes for at least a mile and then coming to a gentle stop from 45mph. So I would say there is drag, how significant I don't know. And what to do about it, I don't know either. Will pads wear quick enough to give sufficient clearance within say a 100miles? Or is there an issue with the caliper and should I just replace them. The rotor could also be slightly thicker than the original and the cause of the issue, maybe?

Anyway, novel over. Sorry, no pics yet to go with all the reading. Wash and photo session coming later today.

[Sac79]

All nice and clean!



The cowl seal did it's job, apart from a small leak right in the middle. And I'm not sure if I need to do anything about the runoff onto the plenum and then straight down to resistor?



Here's the hood alignment Jim. It was like this before, no better no worse now.





The only thing that annoys me a little is how high it sits on the driver's side. It was like this before too, but I'll try to adjust it when I have another pair of hands again.



I would like to upgrade the exhaust to 2.5" throughout. Right now it has the 2" Y-pipes into a 2.5" collector. Then it goes down to the original 2.25" pipe with the stock muffler. My idea is to keep the Y as is and then just 2.5" pipe with a short resonator exiting probably in front of the rear wheel. That would negate any issues with getting a good fitting tail pipe in 2.5".



Another small issue, the vent window weatherstripping/seals.



Not only do they leak(water and significant air), but when you open the window, it's a two-hand close operation... Due to the ill fitting nature of the seal where it goes slack at the top and prevents the window from closing.



And does anyone have a spare 2" of door seal?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Looks great Rob!  

The rims are sharp, and that bed mat fits perfect.

[Gary Lewis]

Rob - It looks fantastic!  Love it!  

On the vent windows, we have instructions from the Factory Shop Manual here: Documentation/Body/FRONT DOOR WINDOW GLASS & MECHANISMS.

On the exhaust, I love Magnaflow mufflers, so I'd recommend one of those.  

[Gary Lewis]

Rob - What do you mean by "stove pipe entrance"?

On the brakes, until you get them bedded there will be some drag.  But, you did lube the slides on the calipers, right?  These calipers aren't known for sliding over and centering up nicely, so they need all the help they can get.

And it sounds like the engine is smoothing out.  I wouldn't be worried about it.  Drive it!

[Sac79]

Stove pipe opening - The bottom opening on the snorkel(I thought it was very descriptive, I guess not). I was thinking it might be open this morning when I first started the truck up. It wasn't. The temperature might have been high enough, or it doesn't work... Not that it would make a huge or any difference. More out of curiosity and the fact that I hooked it up to the vacuum. Unnecessary tubing if it doesn't work! The truck starts first time, no choke required. Takes a couple of blips of the throttle to leave it idling though.

And yes, I did lube the calipers thoroughly, but with the paint(more so on the knuckles) it's a tight fit. The retainers needed some serious encouragement... Could that be my problem. I guess I can afford a few miles of bad fuel efficiency to give the brakes a chance as is. Majority of the driving I'm planning is just 5 miles to a garden center and back...

[Sac79]

Thanks Jim, I'm very happy with the wheel and tire combo. The mat should hopefully do the trick of keeping the bed floor in decent shape.

[salans7]

The truck looks great! I like how simple it is!