EEC III California Emissions - time to convert it?

[66gtk]

It idles perfect - like a sewing machine.  

[Gary Lewis]

Sometimes it helps the transition from idle to have a slightly rich mix.

Did the TPS seem to make things worse or better?

And, have you pulled the codes?

[85lebaront2]

Gary, you see the plastic assembly with the plug on the right inner fender, that is the BARO/MAP sensor. The Baro portion needs to go to 20-25" vacuum for at least 10 seconds then released. I found a procedure on-line. Here it is as a .jpg file, I can email you the original pdf if you want it for your files.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, please email the pdf and I’ll post it.

[66gtk]

Thanks for that, Bill.  Have you every actually tried this procedure?  I'm curious.


Here's a video I found
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puAEJ3BYFeY

[85lebaront2]

I found that one too, I was looking for written instructions so they can be referred back to. One item, on most of the FBCs I have worked on, idle mixture adjustment sometimes requires propane enrichment or similar as the mixture control will screw with it while you try to adjust it.

No, the last thing I had with a FBC was a 1985 Chrysler Lebaron with a POS system that makes your EEC-III look advanced. It had the Mitsubishi 2.6L engine with a Mikuni-Solex carb that used 3 duty cycle solenoids, The computer was like many Mitsubishi built ones, bad grounds inside it. Car would go lean on acceleration, then sort of act like OH SHIT he wants to go, and suddenly zoom forward. I took the system off and put an earlier carb on.

[Angelo Voltura]

Bit off topic, but while seeing EEC-III trucks is rare these days especially in New York, being that I work part time in an auto parts store on my off days from Ford, we had a customer come in recently who was a bit aggravated. He'd been looking for a cap and rotor for his 83 F150. One of the younger kids sold him stuff for a DS2 truck. Luckily I was there when he returned and he brought the old rotor. I immediately knew it was all for EEC-III and ordered him in all the right stuff.

Not a soul in that store otherwise had any idea what the hell they were looking at. Even the guy that had been doing this for 30 years.

[66gtk]

I'm curious to try the diagnostics.  Did I miss where to set the dial to on my analog voltmeter?  I wonder what the voltage is on the pulses/sweeps?  I would think that would be important (:

[Frank Wyatt]

I'm not sure if the voltage is that critical as you would be counting needle sweeps and not looking for a reading.

[66gtk]

Yea, but need to know the range so that the voltmeter is responsive and also to avoid damaging it (:  

[ArdWrknTrk]

It says right in step 3 of the instructions to "set the meter to the 12V post"

I'm assuming this is a primitive meter that has no dial, and you just insert the lead in (or on) the terminal with the correct resistor for the range of the meter.

Obviously, if you aren't reading from a cap or boost converter you won't see voltage above 12.6 with the engine off, nor more than 15 with the alternator turning.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks to Bill, those instructions are now part of this website: Documentation/Electrical/Electronic Engine Control (EEC).  Then go to the EEC-III tab, which is will probably open to, and then the Pulling Codes tab.  They can be searched, zoomed in on, and printed.