Dana 44HD axle nut socket? Or is it a Dana 50?

[Bulletproof250]

I was just about to dig into the front brakes, and just realized that the rotors are not slip on's. before I start trying my buddy's hub socket, is there a difference between the Dana 44 and the Dana 44HD,  or a Dana 50? hub nut socket that I should be concerned about?

[Nothing Special]

Dana 44 and Dana 44HD spindle nuts are the same.  The spanner has 4 dogs that engage the 4 slots in the spindle nuts.

The Dana 50 and Dana 60 use the same spanner as each other.  I think it has 6 dogs, but don't quote me on that.  I'm pretty sure it's different from the Dana 44/44HD spanner.

[Gary Lewis]

Bob/Nothing Special is right.  D44 & D44HD use the same socket, so you should be good to go.  But make sure you remember to pull the large snap ring before you worry because you can't get the parts out.  It takes a small screwdriver or a pick to pry it out of its recess.

And take pics of the order the parts come out it.  It isn't intuitive to me, especially the nuts and lock washers.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have the tool with both sockets in one, as well as a D44 socket.(or two)
Unfortunately, due to the current stay at home order I'm not going to bring it to you.

Gary, I well remember telling you there were two snap rings when you were first trying to get the hubs off.
You're right, it's not entirely intuitive.
Things were a lot more challenging back before we all had a digital camera in our pockets.

As a kid I completely disassembled the lawnmower.
It stretched from one end of the garage to the other and halfway back again.
My mother really tanned my hide!

[Bulletproof250]

Thanks again.

Jim, I'm sure that's what we all did at one time, (Gear-heads unite!). LOL

I will definitely looking for the 2-in-1 tool that you have.

From what I hear, should I be confident that it is NOT A Dana 50?

[ArdWrknTrk]

A Dana 50 has the same 'soup can' hub as a D60.

There is no taper.

I'll get you the number on my tool.
If you want to, click on my username and send me an email with your address.
I can post a socket to you.
It will certainly cost less than the ~$50 that a quality hub socket costs.

[Gary Lewis]

Going to ship something is the only outing we are going to have had in the last week.  But I'll wear a mask and gloves to do so.

And I've done the ordered-disassembly many times.  But you are right, the digital camera has made a world of difference.

And I remember the discussion on the snap ring.  I didn't believe it was there, but after the 2nd or 3rd "trust me, it is there" I found it.  So trust me Alex, it is there.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

These are the two quality sockets I have.



The other is stamped steel, more akin to a filter wrench, but it seems to work fine, especially if you are just R&R, without having to torque the heck out of it to seat a new bearing race.

[Bulletproof250]

Manned with my best friends confidence "...this is the right socket, and if it's not, I made this one..." As he handed it to me, it was quickly evident, that this "custom work" was definitely made out of desperation and in a definite haste. but If it works I'll be sure to post a photo, It'll be a conversation-piece for sure.

....and if it doesn't, I'll be sending someone my address and begging to have the correct tool sent to me.

Thank you all for busting out to dig up that stash of "special tools" I'll know by 4:00PM ET

Stay tuned....

[Bulletproof250]

It is now apart, I did end up needing a socket. Not a huge problem, it was available fro my local Advance guys, $21 sounded affordable enough knowing that I'll be digging back into these hubs again while I own the truck.  All that I had to do was, don my COVID mask and gloves, and head out to get it.

Dana 44HD Expanded view


The Hub


The Locking Hub



Locking Hub Romoved


Snap Ring removal


Snap Ring and lock removed



As promised I've provided the Non working sockets that were suggested to me:



Socket doesn't fit:


Sad Socket:


Would have put it back together but, I think it warrants at least replacing the seals:

[Gary Lewis]

Looks like you are getting it apart.  And I'd sure replace the seals.

I don't see that I pointed you to the section from the factory shop manual on this.  You may have already found it, but just in case: Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Front Axles tab and then the Instructions tab.

[Bulletproof250]

Thanks Gary, and the rest of you that have helped this job along with words of encouragement.

I've replaced the seals, but not before I cleaned and repacked the bearings. Following the torquing (50Lbs) and backing off (1/4 Turn) of the hub nut, it was amazing how smooth these still are. I'm excited to get this project done and take it our for a slow roll

However, I found a cracked lock washer during my reassembly, and I'll be picking that up today. While I am "waiting" with my COVID-mask around my ears typing, my mind has wandered...

What a nice upgrade it would be to change to some corrosion resistant screws for the Locking hub caps, but I want to do this right. The easy answer is "Go Stainless", however 304 and 316 are typically not that great with any significant load, and many or the 400-series will show iron-like stains. Has anyone else thought about this, or has experience in this?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I just use the ones that came with my Warm premiums, and add PST.

This adds no additional breakaway torque, but ensures a hermetic seal.
If no air or water can get in the threads corrosion can't start.

[Gary Lewis]

Alex - Jim will remember that I had fits with the screws that came on Rusty.  He recommended some fancy screw-removing bits, and I finally got them out.  But it was a huge pain.

So either go with stainless or do as he suggested and seal those rascals up.  But, from what Jim's told me, some stainless has a tendency to lock itself in place against ferrous metals, so that PST is a good idea anyway.

[Bulletproof250]

Thanks for the quick response guys.

I did take a few more picks of the hub disassembly, but I was waiting to get the job done before I made an edit on my post.

[Nothing Special]

I've used anti-seize on those bolts and have never had trouble removing them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary,
I think what I've said is that stainless on stainless tends to gall, and weld itself in place, without proper lubrication.

What I found (in desperation, years ago) is that the PTFE in Loctite PST gives enough lubricity allowing you to torque a stainless nut & bolt
Think 1/2-13's through a 1" thick flange on 8" schedule 80 stainless...

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, my misunderstanding.  And I know that I've used anti-seize on them successfully.  However, the PST not only keeps them from galling, it seals the hole so water doesn't get in around the screw.  So that's what I use now.

[Bulletproof250]

After this job was finally complete, and a clean up with some wax, that I know it hasn't seen in near 15 years, it's like a New Truck-Thanks Bullnose Forum

[Gary Lewis]

Looks great, Alex!  Well done!

I particularly like your wheels.  They are some of my favorites, and not often seen with 8 lugs.