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Jim - I do have plastic-lined sockets, but they are up with my body man, John. I need to get them back, but they didn't really work all that well anyway. So I've tried several approaches. What seems to work fairly well is to put a couple of turns of tape on and use a slightly-bigger socket. Light a metric for SAE or vice versa.
But it is tedious. For instance, you want to make sure the tape doesn't get under the head or then you have to get the scalpel out. However, just like the cost I'm not keeping track of the powder. But I go through lots of it. And blasting media. And cans of O'Reilly's brake cleaner. And.....
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I like it as is. The contrast looks good and will break it up when people are ohhing and ahhing at your truck!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I think they'll rust quickly, and ruin the effect you're aiming for. I also agree that tightening down powdered fasteners will scrape & chip the powder, leading to rust, and loss of clamping force/loose fasteners. I'd blast each piece, assemble all the metal-to-metal pieces (arm, nuts, bolts, shock bracket), and THEN powder the tightened assembly. |
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If those washers will rust, what about stainless?
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
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Thanks, guys. I don't think those cad-plated washers will rust quickly at all, but could swap them for stainless.
And while I agree that powder coating the whole assembly would solve the problem, that isn't practical on many of the things on the truck. But it would have worked on the radius arms, so I'll keep that in mind as I move forward.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Got a bit done today, but came up with two questions:
Front Axle Bushings: I started a thread asking for help on this since I didn't figure many would see the question hereWheel Bearings: I didn't start a thread on this, but the question is whether y'all think I should replace the front wheel bearings and races? They look perfect, and I know that Dad would have put them back after cleaning and packing them. On the other hand, while I'm in there.....And on to the progress - I replaced the plated washers with stainless ones on the radius arms. Plus I started cleaning the front hubs, and ran into the question re wheel bearings.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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My thoughts are since you're already in there then why not? They're not that expensive and it's really not much if any work to just put new back in.
1981 F 150 Custom 300 ci with a fully rebuilt 1968 240 head Carter YFA T-18 3.25 9" rear 2WD
dual gas tanks 1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0 AOD Home town Mc Kenzie, TN |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
FWIW, my thoughts when I have this question usually depends on three factors. How much time I have to put it back together, i.e., do I need the vehicle operational soon? How much money does it cost for the possible preventative problem, i.e. will my wife let me buy it now? How difficult is it to tear down, and do I mind the particular task if they were to need changing soon?
How old are the bearings? How many miles do they have on them? I saw the question on your bushings. I have no experience to comment on it. William
1985 Ford Bronco XLT, 4.9L, NP-435 transmission, NP0208 transfer case, 3.55 limited slip rear end,TTB Dana 44 with 3.54
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Thanks for the replies. It really isn't the cost. I'm WAY too far in on this to balk at new bearings. It is more the thought that these bearings, which are probably the original ones, must be good if they've made it this far - maybe 150K miles.
I've seen/heard people complain about cheap bearings today, so was just wondering what everyone's thoughts were regarding replacing what appear to be good bearings with potentially inferior ones.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Personally I'd reuse the bearings and races if they look good. I don't really have any strong reason why though. So take it for what it's worth.
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks "Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears "Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires "the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10 "the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
My Bronco was getting noisy, checked the bearings, I think twice. They seemed fine.
Started hearing noises like bearings going out and the right front was close to welding itself to the axle. Went to NAPA and got their good bearings and some fresh bearing grease, nothing fancy, just good old bearing grease. Just got back from a 800 mile trip. Man it was a pleasant drive, quiet and smooth. Just had to battle some packed snow and ice. The Bronc done good!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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Ray - That's kinda what I'm wondering about. I'll clean the bearings completely and look closely to make 100% sure. Grumpin - I think your vote is new? On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 12:43 AM grumpin [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote: My Bronco was getting noisy, checked the bearings, I think twice. They seemed fine.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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You know the quality of these because they've lasted this long without any visible wear. Why risk Chinese crap? Repack them with good disk brake grease, and keep rolling. You can replace them any time in the future, but why spend money on them when these are still good? If you're replacing parts unnecessarily, why not replace the whole truck?
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I'm sorry, not clear on that. I would say look them over closely, as Steve83 said on replacing parts, don't replace unnecessarily. I was reporting which brand and grease I used. I should have caught that mine were bad, I feel.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
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Steve - That's kinda where I am. They must have been really good to have gotten this far. And I've heard/read horror stories about some of the new bearings.
Grumpin - Now I understand. Thanks for the clarification. All - I'll clean them thoroughly and report back. (It may be tomorrow as the couch is calling. )
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ok, made some progress today. But, I also need some help. So, let's go to the needed help.
The master parts catalog shows a Lower Spring Retainer, as shown below. But I can't find them and need to know what I'm looking for. (Also note a big error - those bolts are 3/8" and they'll strip long before reaching 240 lb-ft. ) This is where the MPC shows that part goes, with the red circle showing where it would go. Could someone show me what theirs looks like? Anyway, I got the left "axle" in, along w/the spring, shocks, and radius arm. But, along the way I realized that several of the fasteners haven't been powder coated, so once I get them rounded up I'll blast and PC them.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Gary,
Those retainers are like a cupped washer. The edge is beveled up, and the OD is just a hair larger than the opening of the bottom coil of the spring. There’s not much to them.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold. 1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021. 1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995 |
Yep I think I have an extra set from 1 of the trucks I can get a picture of tomorrow morning if I can find them. It will get my butt out to the garage, fire up the heater wile I look for them to get a picture of. I also think that bolt is more like 1/2" or the next size larger. I had fun trying to fit the wrench in between the spring to get it to 240 lb. Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
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Ok guys, thanks a bunch.
Cory - Your description fits some of the things I have, but somehow I'm one short. Dave - See if yours have #'s on them. Some of mine have #'s or lettering. One pair is obviously the ones for the front of the radius arm bushing as they say Front on one side and To The Rubber on the other. But I may have the wrong cupped washer to the rear of the radius arm bushing. Steve - Thanks. I'll amend my MPC with the right torque values. And your pics look a bunch like some of the cupped washers I have. As said, I may be using the right ones in the wrong places.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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