Code Reader Issues

[MarkThomas]

Bought this code reader for my ‘86 F250HD 5.0L EFI.



Connected it for the Key On Engine Off test and code download, nothing.  It has the little arrow like it’s doing the test, but nothing ever happens.

The diagnosis section page 75 of the book says clean the connections and hook a battery ground to the single truck connector.  Did all that.  Still nothing.  The book offers nothing else to diagnose.

Is the code reader broken?  Is my EEC IV broken?  Bad wiring?  How do I know?

[Rembrant]

Maybe there are no codes? Or are you pretty sure that there are?

I'm not much help. I had one of these code readers briefly, and used it on my 1993 E350 RV a couple times. I don't remember much, but I do remember that it was pretty crude.

If Vinny happens to see this post he would be the best guy to answer. He really knows the EFI engines well.

[MarkThomas]

When it works, according to the manual, it sends codes to actuate relays etc., then proceeds to send “11” if it passes.  Also the arrow goes away.  Also, it then downloads the stored codes in memory.  None of that is happening.

[grumpin]

I have one of those testers for my Bronco. I like it, it works well.

If it’s not going through the sequence I would say it’s not getting info. But it could be the tester.

Do you have an auto parts store near you that will test it for you? Then you’ll know if it’s the tester.

[85lebaront2]

Most auto parts stores only have OBD-II testers. Look at the 1986 EVTM here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electronic-engine-control1.html and look at the connector, there should also be a single wire next to the large 6 pin one that needs to be connected to retrieve codes my old Snap-On MT2500 and my Snap-On Solus Pro both have that wire provided and I believe that is the one that needs 12V applied to read codes.

Here is an alternate method, using a test light (1987 up have a check engine light and it can be done using it): https://www.fordtruckzone.com/threads/how-to-retrieve-trouble-codes-on-your-eec-iv-system-without-using-a-code-scanner.659319/

[MarkThomas]

That's interesting that the single wire must have 12V...I have a procedure for conducting code download in my Chilton's - I've done that procedure before and it worked, I probably need to give it another look.  If that wire needs 12V, and the diagnostic procedure in the book says to unplug it from the reader and connect it to ground then those two things don't make sense.

On Tue, Dec 15, 2020 at 9:24 AM 85lebaront2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Most auto parts stores only have OBD-II testers. Look at the 1986 EVTM here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electronic-engine-control1.html and look at the connector, there should also be a single wire next to the large 6 pin one that needs to be connected to retrieve codes my old Snap-On MT2500 and my Snap-On Solus Pro both have that wire provided and I believe that is the one that needs 12V applied to read codes.

Here is an alternate method, using a test light (1987 up have a check engine light and it can be done using it): https://www.fordtruckzone.com/threads/how-to-retrieve-trouble-codes-on-your-eec-iv-system-without-using-a-code-scanner.659319/

Bill Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F-350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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[ratdude747]

I have one of those testers for my '84 F150. Only time I had it not work for a KOEO test (and code pull) was on a dead ECU. As in completely burnt and fried. Having done the flash counting game on previous vehicles (OBD 1.5 1995 Chevy Astro), it's a welcome improvement in diagnostics.

You're not terribly far from me actually (per the member map)... If you happened to head towards my area (Madison, IN), I'd be willing to let you borrow mine as a known good tester.

Otherwise, since you're on EFI, presumably the ECU is doing something... or else you'd be dead in the water with no fuel (or maybe running pig rich with a stuck injector). Assuming your tester is indeed working, I'd say you probably have a break in EECIV wiring or a really badly corroded connector (which being open under the hood, is not impossible by any means.

[ckuske]

I have the same reader, works great for me (so far!)

302 with 2150 carb and EEC-IV ignition

[MarkThomas]

Pretty busy right now, but I have the procedure in my Chilton's.  I'll try doing the code download again using the "hard" way.  If that still works, then the EEC IV is good and the wiring is good.  Has to be the code reader.  If I can't get the "hard" way to work, then it's time to diagnose the wiring and computer.

On Wed, Dec 16, 2020 at 4:16 PM ckuske [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I have the same reader, works great for me (so far!)

302 with 2150 carb and EEC-IV ignition

Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck

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