Carburetor issue

[jdavidsmi]

Thanks for all the ideas, I didn’t know about using air pressure to get gas to the pump, but I woke up this morning wondering if I had tightened all the clamps on the hoses. That I will check.

I did pour some gas in the carburetor and the truck started right up and ran until the gas was used. I did this several times, same results.

I had not thought about filling the bowl up, going to try that, if the air pressure does not work.

I don’t have the pump I removed, gave it back to NAPA, in exchange for the new one.

Yesterday I removed the fuel line at the carburetor and turned the engine over a few times, never got any fuel out. This was after putting the gas in the carburetor and it running for a bit.

When I started the tank replacement, the truck was outside, it was very hard to start like it was not getting gas. I finally got it started and drove it into the garage. Disconnected the battery and dropped the tank. Put the new tank in, connected all the lines. Put in some gas and tried to start it.

The plan for today is, check all the clamps are tight. add some more gas, and try, if not, put some pressure in the tank, and try. If still nothing, fill up the bowl on the carburetor, and try again. Last thing get a different pump.

I will let you know the outcome.

[Gary Lewis]

Did you replace the fuel hoses?  On two of my trucks the original hoses were toast.  On one the hose was porous enough that it would let enough air in to kill the vacuum the fuel pump creates to move gas, and the truck would die.  So any loose clamp or bad hose can give you fits.

[jdavidsmi]

Gary, all the rubber gas hoses were replaced.

I found the problem!!!

The rubber line from the tank to the steel line was caught under the top bracket of the tank was was pinched closed. I was able to loosen the tank up a bit and slide it out. I now have gas to the carburetor.

The truck started right up and ran about 2 minutes the choke opened up and it ran a couple more minutes and died. And would not start. I hooked my remote starter up and to watched the gas flowing through the gas filter. I have a better filter mounted on the carburetor, I left the glass one on just to insure I had fuel flow.

The motor turns over easy but no indication wanted to start. I was afraid I would burn up my starter so I’m letting it cool down before I start looking for a spark.
,

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!  Glad you found it.  

But it may be that the choke came off too early.  After it cools and the choke comes back on it might start easily - and then die again.  If so then pump the throttle a couple of times and see if that causes it to start briefly.  

[jdavidsmi]

Well the fuel problem is solved! No fuel was flowing through the new fuel filter.  I could get it to run as long as I put fuel in the top of the carburetor. But as soon as it was used up it died. I even filled up the bowl through the vent. Same thing. I then pulled the top off the carburetor and turned the motor over, I was not getting any gas through the needle, but I had it in the glass filter. Once I had removed the new filter and reinstalled the gas line it started right up. Who would have thought?

[Gary Lewis]

So you are running w/o a filter?  And the filter that was plugged was new?  Did it get splashed with water?  That will plug some filters.

[jdavidsmi]

No I put the glass filter back on. No water that I’m aware of,  there is what looks like a piece of paper or plastic down inside the inlet side of the filter. I will take the filter back to carquest tomorrow for an exchange.

I’m not going to drive it until I put a new filter on it , so I don’t know how close the carburetor’s air/fuel mixing screws are set. I really should just break down and get a vacuum gauge.

This has been an adventure and at times very flustering. I was kind of surprised at how easy the new fuel tank went in, everything just kind of slid into place. Except me not checking the location of the fuel line across the top of the tank. I had to disassemble the oil pressure setup to replace the fuel pump, and ended up messing up the brass Tee, but it’s all back together.

I still need to fine tune the choke, I agree with Gary it’s opening too early,

I can now check off the tank on my list of things to do.

[Gary Lewis]

Checking things off the to-do list is one of my favorite things to do!  

[jdavidsmi]

Well,it’s acting up again. The motor was getting harder and harder to start, going on for the last two weeks or so. It would turn over but not start. If I put a few drops of gas into the carburetor it would start and run, as long as I did not turn it off.

Yesterday it would not start at all no matter what I did. Fuel would spray into the ventral when the petal was pressed. I pulled #1 plug and I had spark. Now when I turn the motor over to start, it blows fuel up out of the carburetor, and the motor tries to run backwards, and stops.

I have recheck float measurements and it’s at 5/8 in. Fuel mixture screws all the way in then back out 1-1/2 turn.

I’m totally at a loss. Is it possible it jump timing?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I think you've hit on the problem - it jumped time.  Trying to run backwards and backfiring through the carb are classic symptoms.

To prove it see if you can check the timing.  But that may not work if it is kicking back.  So manually bring it up to TDC with a breaker bar and a 15/16" socket on the balancer bolt.  Use your thumb over the spark plug hole to try to determine where TDC, but the marker on the balancer should be good.  Then check where the rotor is pointing on the distributor.  I'll bet it isn't pointing at the #1 terminal in the cap.

Pull the fuel pump and check the slack in the timing chain.  I'll bet there is more than the 1/2" of slack the FSM recommends.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've always checked slack by rocking the crank back and forth with a breaker bar while observing the distributor rotor.

Straight up timing sets are great for power.  

[jdavidsmi]

Thanks for the feedback, won’t be doing much today, raining all day. But I have an idea of what to look for and do.

[85lebaront2]

When you do the chain, spend a bit extra for double row roller chain. If Ford did the Windsor blocks like they did the 460s the later engines (1994 up) may well have them as factory in which case just order the later model set. I have been to your truck's birthplace, everything I have seen said that plant had Ford's best quality world wide.

When Mercedes-Benz was looking for a location to build trucks in the US, they settled on Hampton VA as the location had rail and sea shipping and the area's reputation for quality, one of the people involved in establishing it told me that NNS and Ford quality reputations were an important factor in locating the plant in the Tidewater VA area.

[ArdWrknTrk]

EFI 460's came with double row true roller chains from the factory but Cloyes 'street double roller' timing sets are less than replacement timing sets for an '88-'96 @~$43 on Amazon.

I don't know when or if the Windsor engines changed, but I suspect that a quality aftermarket set would be about the same money.

[jdavidsmi]

Jim, forgive my ignorance, but what is meant by the term “double row true roller chain” ? I looked at the pictures and cannot see a difference other than it looks heavier duty than a standard.

Rock Auto has them listed for $ 35.00 but the shipping adds

NAPA list a set for $52.00

But I’m getting ahead of my self, still need to get it in the garage to check it out.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Stock chains are silent "HyVo" type chains with a nylon cam sprocket.

This nylon sprocket wears, and gets shredded, clogging the sump pickup.
And the timing goes out, usually 70-75kmi.

Single roller is like a bicycle or motorcycle chain.

Double roller is like two chains that share the same side plate, in the center.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Oh, "true" roller means the sleeves on the pins of the chain are free to turn -and reduce friction and wear as they go on and slide off the sprocket teeth.

[jdavidsmi]

Thanks that makes sense, I had never really thought about it.