C6 to E4OD swap, analog range sensor wiring 1986 F-350 6.9l Diesel

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think you need to look at the fusible links connected to the starter relay on the inside fender.

ALL of these belong on the same post with the battery + cable.
Sometimes these can melt inside the insulation jacket (this is how they're supposed to work!)

[85lebaront2]

Read what the description says pin 1 - circuit 298 (Ford circuit number on a wiring diagram) backup lights power from ACC feed (through ignition switch from battery)

This will be powered in run and accesory, but not when cranking.

These refer to the square 16 pin connector, C103 in post #8

C110 I have also seen as a 4 pin connector.

On item, Ford pretty much sticks to the same numbers and colors for years.

[kcinga]

Ah, okay, I looked back at the C103 diagram and printed it out. Then I marked the color differences between that diagram and the 16-pin connector on my truck. Only one pin color matched (#13 Black)!

I did check the fusible link next to solenoid on fender and the one going into the Quick 4 transmission controller. They both checked out fine. This truck started and ran like a champ when I got it. Only thing I'm attempting to do is connect the Quick 4 transmission controller, so that the E4OD will shift. When I got it, it would only be in 4th gear (Drive) or 2nd gear (2).

I really think it will come down to figuring out the analog range sensor wires that came loose, when I was first inspecting the transmission connections before ordering the Quick 4 unit. I took a picture when they came loose, but it's low quality and hard to tell what color wires were involved. It's basically 6 wires out of the 8-pin connector.



After the wires came loose, I was no longer able to crank from the key anymore. I made several attempts to reconnect correctly before getting the Quick 4 unit, but none of them were successful. I may have this towed to a shop next week and let them figure it out.

[85lebaront2]

The reason you only have 6 wires, 2 were only for the 4WD "shift on the fly" version. If you have a multimeter, you can identify the wires using it.

At the switch, pins 6 and 7 are only connected in reverse, 6 should be black with a pink stripe and that is power to the backup lights (wire should be there as the C6 used it) 7 is purple with orange, and again, should be there as the C6 used it also, that one should be powered with the key on.

Pins 5 and 8 are the starter safety swich and should be connected in P and N only. Those wires should be there as the C6 used them also. On the driver's side frame, near where the C6 crossmember atached, there should be a harness plugged in that went to the C6 neutral safety/backup light switch. It should have those 4 wires in it. Then there may be one or more in the harness.

[kcinga]

I feel like I’m coming full circle on those wire colors. lol The 4-pin connector you speak of lines up well with wire colors: R/LB, BK/PK, P/O, W/PK. But, I tried that before and it didn’t work. It wasn’t until I incorporated the Red wire from the 16-pin harness, that I encountered success (however briefly)… I think I tried pin positions 5 and 8, trading out with either R/LB or W/PK. At any rate, the issue since then is having no ability to crank from key or solenoid. And now the issue is even worse, since I have no power to lights, cab, anything! Even the Quick 4 controller won’t power up unless I hook it directly to the battery. I checked fuses in cab, on solenoid, and on Quick 4 controller… all are good.

[85lebaront2]

First, are the fusible links connected to the battery side of the starter relay? Second, are they still good? Third, how are you checking for power? Fourth, are your ground cables connected to the engine block and also frame and cab with the braided straps?

[BigBrother-84]

85lebaront2 wrote

Fourth, are your ground cables connected to the engine block and also frame and cab with the braided straps?

I had similar problem last winter (no lights and no crank, or yellowish cab light with a small "click" then nothing).  I found that the starter solenoid wasn't working correctly (proved its internal contact was carbonized when I exposed its guts on in the bench).  Changing for a new one fixed my problem.

Until yesterday...  no crank no lights again.


This time, I discovered that the Ground battery cable (which appeared in good shape) was in fact "almost" broken.  I inspected it last winter and didn't detect the failure.  I am now pretty sure it was the real source of my cranking issue.

Even the ground cable "appears" to be ok, I suggest to change it.
Doesn't cost a lot and easy to do.
In my case, it would have avoid a new Starter Solenoid buy.

[kcinga]

Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve removed both negative battery cables and on inspection they look pretty corroded. Any suggestions on where I can get replacement parts? I’ve looked around a bit and can’t quite find what I’m looking for… I’ll need one cable to go to ground and solenoid, while the other one will go to ground and starter.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The solenoid doesn't connect to ground.
If you have a PMGR starter you need a 'Y' cable that connects to the fender relay and the solenoid on the starter.

Not too long ago one member was looking for a ground cable (with the 'flag' that grounds to the crossmember.
He found it for a reasonable price.
Let me see if I can find the post.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've spent an hour searching this forum for that post.
Google gets worse and worse, I'm sorry it hasn't turned up.  

[85lebaront2]

If you can find a cable set from a later truck, the ground goes to one of the starter bolts (bottom one on a 460) and there is a about an 8ga wire off the battery end directly to the inner fender area. Diesel may be different, I can ask my best friend how his 1995 F350 Powerstroke is done.

I had run a 6ga starter cable from the 1986 ground cable stud on the right front corner of the block to the bolt on the frame where the original "flag" on the factory ground cable bolted down.

[kcinga]

I couldn’t find replacement negative battery cables anywhere. I was referred to a Napa auto parts store. They make replacement battery cables there. It wasn’t cheap ($160 for 2 cables, when all was said and done). I am happy with the end result, tho. I picked up extra 16g wiring and connectors to splice into existing wiring for fender well (passenger side) and starter (driver side). I’ll give it a go soon when things dry out around here (don’t feel like laying in the mud).

[kcinga]

The new negative cables addressed the power issue. The cab light comes on when I open the door now. I’ve forgotten, tho… this black cable at top of solenoid on fender-does it go to engine block? I think it used to tie into negative battery cable, but I’ve forgotten. I’ll have to hook it up separately now.

[85lebaront2]

Anything on the solenoid posts (large ones) either is battery power or goes to the starter.