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If you are basing all of this off of a factory oil pressure gauge reading, your first step really needs to be hooking up a quality mechanical pressure gauge to verify your oil pressure. The factory pressure sensors fail often, and the instrument cluster voltage regulator, wiring, and gauges are marginal at best. It is an okay pulse check while driving, but do not trust it to diagnose engine health. Do you have any other symptoms that support the idea that the oil pressure is low?
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD
STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2 |
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Wow that was a quick reply !
I‘ll get me an other mechanical gauge today, to check as suggested. Otherwise, no other symtoms.... But my intuition tells me to be careful. Äh, sorry but where is the oilpressureswitch located ?
´86 F150 5.0 EFI 4WD LWB
I belive in metrics. 😉 |
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Jonathan is right - don’t trust the factory gauge. And the oil pressure sender should be very near the oil filter., but above it if I remember correctly. And the wire to it should be white/red.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Howling.Wolf
You change to a mechanical gauge first. If the pressure shows the same as with the electrical gauge, then you pull the pan.First you check the pickup screen. If it is blocked, plugged with goop, thats you problem. If it is clean, then you should replace the bearings. I have done a bearing change with the engine in on a 300-6. It's some work and may be more difficult if you never did anything like this before . .but it can be done. Rod caps are off in pics. I also removed the crankshaft and did main bearings and rear seal.
I had a broken piston skirt, so I replaced all the pistons as well.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance 1982 F100 Flareside 1983 Bronco |
Pete, you are great, thanks for that.
Just came back, had discovered that the plug and cord/cable to the pressure swich where rotten. So I replaced the cable and cleaned the plug. Put some WD40 onto it and will see the result in about 10minutes. Because I will take my love out for a nice ride now. It is 9pm I‘ll tell you little later if that was the problem. Otherwise concerning the pickup screen, how would it be if I put some/very litte preassure (air) into the system trough the oilmeasurstik/pipe couldn‘t this mybe help if it is glogged ?
´86 F150 5.0 EFI 4WD LWB
I belive in metrics. 😉 |
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Good luck on your drive.
Here's a drawing I made to show what we are talking about. Think of it as a side view of the oil pan. You can see the waves as the oil level in the pan. And the red "Screen" is the part we are talking about. It is the bottom of the oil pickup, and sits right at the bottom of the oil pan so it can suck up the oil even if the oil level is low. But, if the screen gets clogged then the pump can't pull as much oil through it as it wants, and the resulting oil pressure goes down. And, since the screen is right down close to the bottom of the oil pan if someone has let the inside of the engine get sludged up, then when you put new oil in the sludge can get dislodged and plug the screen. You can see the oil fill tube on the left, and it just goes into the oil well away from the oil pickup and screen. You can blow all the air in there that you want, but it won't do anything to the gunk on the screen. However, some have said they cleaned things up by running a quart of ATF, meaning automatic transmission fluid, or maybe even kerosine, in an oil change with 5 quarts of good oil. And, if it was my truck I might try that instead of dropping the pan, since that is a big job. I would change oil and add the ATF, and drive the truck 1000 kilometers, and then change again with another quart of ATF with 5 quarts of oil. The ATF has extra detergent, and it helps clean things. But, if the inside of the engine is really, really dirty then you might completely clog the screen, so you want to watch the oil pressure gauges, meaning both the factory one and the new mechanical one, very closely.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by Howling.Wolf
Hurray, that was a grat night last night.
It all worked out so easy at the end. It was just the rotten connection to te oil pressure switch. Uff. Boys I deeply thank you all very very much for the tips and pictures but I am thankful that it was only that rotten connetion. Please keep on rockin and hopefully we will see us in Skiatook. Best regards Heinz
´86 F150 5.0 EFI 4WD LWB
I belive in metrics. 😉 |
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Excellent!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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