Build update 2

[Ifitaintbroke]

DRIVETRAIN IS IN! Now just have to put the entire front of the truck back on! Will be using the documentation quite a bit...

[Gary Lewis]

Yippee!  

[Ifitaintbroke]

Got the pushrods and Pertronix module in. Now I have to play the game of shimming the rockers!

[Gary Lewis]

That's a fiddly operation.  But you are getting soooo close, so take your time and do it right.  

[Ifitaintbroke]

The odd thing is that it's different on the intake and exhaust side. Machinist told me it was because the base cycle of the cam is different on intake and exhaust. It's tedious but I'll get it done. What worries me more is trying to remember how the whole front clip goes back on!

[Ifitaintbroke]

I'm planning on installing an msd box soon. It will be an analog 6al. I mainly got it for the rev limiter function. Thinking I might set it around 4000-4500. I doubt this truck will see revs higher than that, however, it's pretty well balanced, so I'm sure it could without issue.

[Ifitaintbroke]

Finally got the MSD box in. Going to put it under the driver's seat, for heat protection, and because there's no more room under the hood. 
Going to set the rev limiter to 5200. Pics when possible. I know I always says that but...

[Gary Lewis]

LOL!  I'm doubting the "room" comment.  I have an extra battery, two power distribution boxes, and an air cleaner box that I don't think you have - in the same size engine compartment.  

But I don't disagree on the underseat placement.  

[Ifitaintbroke]

Yeah, it's pretty crowded. I also have a similar air cleaner setup.

[Ifitaintbroke]

I was thinking of the carbed dual air cleaner setup, which I have. Didn't you have one at one point?

[Gary Lewis]

Dual snorkel?  Yes, I built one.  Pretty easy really.

[Ifitaintbroke]

Funny I happen to be doing this at the same time everyone is talking about Jim's steering shaft. Just pulled the steering column to put in the reinforcement plate that I haven't gotten in the mail yet. Figured I'd look at the upper joint on the lower shaft while I was in there. Lo and behold, it is split! I have only today read about this being a problem. Now considering what to do. Jim's shift build looks great, but I'm not a welder. I have a welder, but I haven't learned how to use it yet. This would probably not be a good first project. Funnily enough, I also just happened to pick up a plasma cutter at HF the other day for half off(open box). I'm looking at the Borgeson shaft, but the idea of having basically the same thing for that much cheaper is also very tempting. Oh if only I knew how to weld! And I was at technical college and didn't take it!

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not sure a steering shaft is the best first welding project ever.  So I would look at one of the 1988 - 91 shafts.  Should be a direct replacement, and while it has a rag joint it is a much better one than the Bullnose shafts.  E8TZ 3B676-A

But while you are "there" take a look at the bottom bearing of the steering column.  It is only plastic, and if there is slop in it this would be the time to replace it with something better, like the DRB one.

And, if you are one of those "while I'm in there" guys, like me, the Blue Top steering box is a wonderful improvement.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Believe me, I'm no weldor either.  
I have a few including an ancient MIG, an oxy-cetylene setup and a little Horrid Fate Titanium easy flux 125.

Will it break? IDK. But I did my best to make sure I got full penetration and no inclusions.

It's never too late to learn or practice.
Go make yourself a welding cart or some shelving.
Just get out and do it!  

[Ifitaintbroke]

I had no idea that was plastic. In fact I had no idea it was there. The steering system is about the only thing I haven't been through and modified on this truck. I'm trying to cap my mods, but this is also an issue of safety. Remember, I'm going to mainly be using this truck to pull a 10,000lb trailer, likely on the interstate, and for long distances. Steering stability is "slightly important" for that. Also looking at the Rancho steering stabilizer. Not necessary, but might help. Also, on another note, my rear tine garden tiller just threw a rod earlier! Just cranked it and was about to start moving it over to the garden when BAM! Then I noticed a large hole in the crankcase. Might be engine shopping at Horrid Fate. Jim, don't do that again. I bout died laughing at that!

[Ifitaintbroke]

Also funny: I just replaced that rag joint and it's brand new. Hasn't even been used yet. You can't make this stuff up. But, if I can do an upgrade I will. It wouldn't be the first time I had to undo previous work to change something.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Predator is a good engine. You won't be disappointed.  

[Gary Lewis]

Trust me, if your steering box isn't either a Redhead or Blue Top you don't have optimum steering.

Ford's design was to use the cast iron of the box as the bearing for the front of the shaft.  Over the years the box wears, and when everybody but those two rebuild the box they just check to see if the size of the bore is within their tolerance.  So the box you get isn't as good as new, and may be pretty loose.

Redhead & Blue Top bore out the box and press in a bearing.  So now it is TIGHT.

The previous owner of Big Blue spent big bucks for an AGR-213678 steering box that purported to have all new components.  And currently costs $422.  But the steering has never been all that good in spite of having all new ball joints, tie rods, and a Borgeson lower steering shaft.

Recently I spent $255 for a Blue Top box that transformed the steering.  It now steers like a new vehicle, with no slop.

[Ifitaintbroke]

I'll think about it...

[Ifitaintbroke]

Looked at the bearing on the column, and it appears to be fine. I'm considering just replacing that boot and being done with it, I've looked at the shaft and I can't see any obvious issues. This stuff is getting expensive. If I do anything it will be the gearbox. It's the most expensive item, but also the only one that can potentially leave me on the side of the road. Anyone know a source for that boot?