Big Brother is going 3G

[Gary Lewis]

And this from our in-development 3G page:

Clocking:
The back of the alternator can be attached to the front of the alternator in three different positions, and those positions are called the "clocking" of the alternator.   The industry standard for referencing clocking appears to be with the pivot at 6:00 and the clamp arm at 12:00, as shown in the picture above.  So in the picture above the alternator has 7:00 clocking, but it could have 4:00 or 11:00 clocking since the positions go in 4-hour increments [12 hours/3 positions].    (Other alternators may have different clocking - I don't know.)

As you can see in the picture below, which is the same alternator as above before being powder-coated and having 160 amp diodes installed, the regulator connector is pointing almost straight up and the B+ terminal for the charge cable is handy to the left, although in that picture it doesn't yet have the extension on it, which brings the stud to the top.   Anyway, if that orientation doesn't work for you then you can rotate (re-clock) your alternator, and Steve83's instructions for doing so are here.

[85lebaront2]

Jim, I downloaded his site before it disappeared completely.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you have the load testing video where he makes the single belt slip?

[85lebaront2]

I don't think I downloaded any videos. I will look tomorrow.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - Did you send me that file some time ago?

[BigBrother-84]

Ok, here is a first version of my grocery list, probably not completed.  Feel free to comment.
What am I missing?

1- Cluster Amp meter converted to Volt meter
2- Harness (already on hand, thanks to Gary!)
3- 3G alternator (exact model to be defined)
4- Replace the 3G alternator Voltage Regulator for a model with LRC (Load Response Control regulator that goes to full charge in +/- 2.5 seconds)
5- Pulley swap fittings (new V-Belt pulley?  New axle bolt?)
6- New V-Belt
7- Reclock the 3G alternator? May depend of the model?
8- Make some bracket adjustments (to be more defined: Curbing? Tapping? New bolts?)

[ArdWrknTrk]

BigBrother-84 wrote

Ok, here is a first version of my grocery list, probably not completed.  Feel free to comment.
What am I missing?

1- Cluster Amp meter converted to Volt meter
2- Harness (already on hands, thanks to Gary!)
3- 3G alternator (exact model to be defined)
4- Replace the 3G alternator Voltage Regulator for a model with LRC (Load Response Control regulator that goes to full charge in +/- 2.5 seconds)
5- Pulley swap fittings (new V-Belt pulley?  New axle bolt?)
6- New V-Belt
7- Reclock the 3G alternator? May depend of the model?
8- Make some bracket adjustments (to be more defined: Curbing? Tapping? New bolts?)

4) you can get a model with the LRC already installed (Escort or Lincoln/Mercury)
LRC are usually white instead of grey
5) all alternator shafts are 17mm.
Depending on your existing pulley and the particular 3G casting you may need a thin shim behind it. A 5/8" washer usually works. -yes, I know.... but SAE washers are sloppy fit-
6) same belt. Unless you want new.
7) reclocking is not a big deal. 3 screws. Do NOT pull it apart, or you will have to deal with the brushes.
8) the adjuster arm has a kink in it
You need to hammer it 1/4" (6mm) flatter, but not flat

How else can I help?  👂

[BigBrother-84]

Thanks Jim, clear instructions, as usual.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

How else can I help?  👂

That’s fine, for the moment.

Sure I’ll come back with a zillion questions.  My next step will be the 3G hunting itself.  So I’ll certainly need your advice about different models I’ll find here and there.

Thanks!

[BigBrother-84]

Hi gentlemen!

Did somebody recently have business with Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations (Bob’s RCCI)?

I recently tried two times to email him and didn’t receive answer.
Last time I had emailing exchange with him was a year ago, and he was complaining about his email system.

I am just wondering about the cost for ammeter conversion:  The shipping fees for QC-Canada are normally much higher than inside US, and I don’t find this kind of information on his site.
I just want to be sure he is comfortable with his 50$ flat fee.


If not, I am willing to pay the real shipping fees, but cannot do it while ordering on the web site.

[ArdWrknTrk]

$50C is NOT $50 US.

My truck came with a voltmeter so I never used him, but my Cougar buddy Joe Chiapetta in Florida has been using him for decades (I think that's how I found out about this critical part of a 3G conversion)

[BigBrother-84]

I understand.  In fact, my question is about the payment step of his site.

The site has a tab for "shipping", where there are flat fees for different destinations:


But in the "place order" window, there is no place to specify what shipping fees will apply:


I left him a phone message.  Too bad that we cannot communicate by email...
Anyway, I am placing my order as is, I suppose that he will add the shipping fees on his side.


EDIT:  I have my answer:  Shipping fees are added on the PayPal page, one click further, after clicking the "Pay now" button.

[viven44]

That’s nice of you to worry about his profit margin

If only everyone was a good customer like that, imagine how nice would it be to be a business operator/owner.

I would be delighted to reply asap to a query like that. Maybe he is just busy.

[BigBrother-84]

viven44 wrote

That’s nice of you to worry about his profit margin

Well, I am wondering about his profitability, and about what could be added to my credit card without my consent.


I think Dennis Carpenter (not sure, could be another seller) has a shipping fees calculation where the actual amount is added after the order is shipped and invoiced.
I’m always a bit nervous when ordering that way…

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's NEVER a good situation, Jeff!  🙏

[viven44]

OK that is a valid concern. Never knew of such a thing... but if they did add fees without consent hopefully it is reasonable and fair.

I like to assume most people think of others money as their own and behave reasonably

[BigBrother-84]

Not going this way, but I am wondering what’s the goal of this external module, since 3G are internally regulated?

Not clear for me…



This kit is made specifically for the installation of a Ford 3G alternator on any vehicle where the stock alternator was EXTERNALLY regulated.  We incorporate a new replacement external regulator box (as shown) to capture the proper circuit and retain the stock wiring harness along with our own 3-wire (3G Series) regulator plug.  This kit allows the customer to retain the OEM warning lights and shunt type ammeter **  Installation requires the customer replace the stock external regulator with the box provided, install the alternator and our 3-wire plug, then make one crimp connection from the original Field wire at the alternator.

** direct reading ammeter should not be used or should be bridged due to the significant increase in measured amperage with upgrade alternators

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's essentially a 36 swap interface with a 1G vehicle that leaves all the stock clutter looking unchanged.
"Plug 'n play"

I'm sure I've mentioned the PA Performance 'bogus' regulator multiple times (probably even in this very thread)

[Gary Lewis]

It is interesting that they imply that a shunt type ammeter will be fine but that a direct reading one won't.

I have the shunt that was left over from creating the harness for Big Bro and have been trying to figure out how to test it in a controlled environment.  But all I've come up with for a load is a bunch of headlights.  Our H6054's are rated at 100W for both bulbs so at 12V they only pull 8.3 amps.  I guess I could parallel a bunch of them, but it would take 10 of them to get into what I assume is the danger range of 80 amps.

Anyone with a better idea?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I have (back in Wilton) a carbon pile type battery tester.  💡

You can get plenty of amps into that thing, and the dial is infinitely adjustable

[Gary Lewis]

Now that you mention it, I do have a carbon pile tester - but it doesn't work.  Was given to me a couple of years ago when things were hectic and I've not checked it out to see why it doesn't work.

Aren't they pretty simple?  Like carbon discs that get pushed together with the pressure from the knob to change the overall resistance?  If so, what could go wrong?