Big Blue's Bucket Seats

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like a plan.  I think the idea of media-blasting it is good to give it grip.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the Plasti Dip on order from the local Ace Hardware for $15.  Will be in next Wednesday.  Amazon wanted $35, and while that's probably twice the size I don't need that much and it'll go bad before I use it all.  (Got a can of yellow from Dad after he passed and it was hard.)

[mat in tn]

just an observation. are you planning on painting the tracks? they sure stand out in the pictures. your work looks great!  please don't let those take away from your work.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If they're steel, and not galvanized, consider cold blue.

The selenium doesn't eat up any clearances, will turn them black, it won't rub off, chip, whatever...


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1556419877

[Gary Lewis]

Mat - I plan on painting the tracks and the adjusting arm.  I knew they didn't look good, but was blown away with how bad they are until I got them beside the platform today.  

Jim - I'm not painting the moving parts, just the parts that are visible.  I'm going to try to use the etching primer and paint I used on the platform.  That's going to mean a lot of cleaning as the lube I've used has migrated everywhere.  We shall see how it goes.  

[Gary Lewis]

Got the lid to the console cleaned and painted today, as shown below.  And for reference I used the process I set out in this post.

But I'm sure I don't have enough paint to do the console itself, so will have to wait until Monday to order more from Vinyl Pro.  And for posterity, that's SEM 4130 Regatta Blue.

While waiting on that to come in I'll work on the console as it has some holes in it that I'd like to plug before I paint.  So I'm looking for recommendations on how to do that.    Here's what I'm wanting to plug:




And here's the lid:




Last, in case someone wants to know at some point, here's the ID # info from the console, on the left, and the lid:

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you have any of that G-Flex left?
Otherwise go to the parts store and get bumper & facia filler.

[Gary Lewis]

Good idea, Jim.  I do have some left.  

Now let's talk about how best to use it:

Put a piece of tape on the inside of the console covering the holes and poke some of the G-Flex through the holes from the outside, leveling it off as it runs in.  This would ensure that I don't make a mess as I can scrape any excess off before it sets.

Put Saran Wrap on the outside and hold it in place tightly with some kind of cushion to ensure it is pushed down in the texture, and then smear G-Flex on from the inside and allow it to run down/out against the Saran Wrap.  This approach worries me as the Saran Wrap may not be tightly against the console and allow the G-Flex to run out and make a big, ugly blob on the side.

In either approach I'm not much worried about the inside as I'm going to cover the inside with felt.  But what do you think of those approaches?  Are there other, better ones?

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you want the leather texture I'd say find an inconspicuous spot and use RTV to make an impression, so I can put that on the outside, either over a dab of G-Flex or fill the hole from the back with a toothpick, popsicle stick or something similar (I use a palate knife)

[Gary Lewis]

The area is pretty big, so I'd have to do it a hole at a time if I made an impression.  But I'm not too worried about the texture.  So what I'm thinking of doing is using box tape on the back side and then fill the hole from the outside using a toothpick.  I might even be able to put some texture in it as it cures.

I think I'll try that approach on one hole and see how it goes.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, that seems a good plan if you're looking to fill the holes individually.
And, of course, you'll be painting w/SEM afterwards, so minor imperfections aren't a big deal as long as the prep is good and the epoxy hangs on.

Gary, you're old enough to remember those vinyl repair kits that came with a few leather textures and you would iron the sheet over the unvulcanized patching paste, that claimed "invisible repair"?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I remember those sheets.  Never tried them though.

I think the epoxy will hold, but I'll prep the plastic as if I'm getting ready to paint it before applying the epoxy.  That should give it the best possible chance of adhering.  Then once I get the new paint I'll prep it again.

Speaking of the new paint, I'm keeping enough of the "old" paint to do the finish coat with on the console.  That way even if the new paint is slightly different in color the lid and the console will match.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wife with alcohol and then play the flame of a propane towards her butane lighter over the surface.
This leaves plastic molecules with a higher surface energy to bond to the glue, or for the glue to bond too

There shouldn't be any problem with it coming loose. That stuff is tenacious.
You've seen the kayak video, I'm sure...


*Wipe* .....  *torch or*...... *to them*.........have I mentioned how much I HATE predictive keyboards and AI augmented speech to text?  

It's almost like the first iteration of Dragon, but it shoves it back in, even if you correct it. 🤬

[Gary Lewis]

I think your Android is playing games with you.  But I know what you are saying.  However, here are the instructions directly from West Systems user's manual:

Plastic— Flame treating plastic before applying G/flex epoxy substantially improves
adhesion. Before flame treating, clean plastics (except for polycarbonate) with isopropyl
alcohol to remove contamination. Sand all plastics (including polycarbonate) with 80-grit
sandpaper to provide texture for good adhesion. HDPE (high-density polyethylene) and
LDPE (low-density polyethylene) must be flame treated for good adhesion. ABS and PVC
plastics also benefit from flame treatment. If you are unsure of the type of plastic, it
doesn’t hurt to flame treat.

To flame treat plastic, pass the flame of a propane torch across the cleaned and sanded
plastic surface. Do this quickly, allowing the blue part of the flame to touch the surface,
and keeping the torch moving at a rate of 12 inches per second.

No obvious change takes place but the flame oxidizes the surface and dramatically
improves adhesion. If flame treating a wide area, make multiple passes with the torch
¾" apart. Be careful not to melt or burn the surface.

[ArdWrknTrk]

😄😆😂🤣

You got me!

I'm dead!  💀

[BigBrother-84]

Gary Lewis wrote

The slide handles for the seats don't have "knobs" on them.

Gary, I know I am very late, but this Dennis Carpenter knob cannot fit?


EDIT:  Out of stock!    
But this part number pops up NOS here and there on the web.

[Gary Lewis]

Jeff - Thanks.  It might fit the passenger's side given the shape.  But I don't think it would the driver's side as it is flat.  I really don't remember what the tracks came off of, so can't be sure.  

But I think the Plasti Dip will work well.  It won't have the "finished" look the proper knob would, but I think it'll be acceptable.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I left some notes , above, for the Lol's...

Your idea of putting some holes through the metal, so it CAN'T slip off is a good one imo.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I fully understood what you were trying to say and what was happening.  But had I not been au fait with the West Systems instructions, thanks to you, I'd have not twigged.  So the explanations weren't needed for me but surely will help the others.  

And I do intend to drill a few of holes in each arm.  While the one on the driver's side has the notches and the coating isn't likely to come off, the one on the passenger's side has nothing to keep it on but adhesion.  So a few holes should make a big difference.  

[BigBrother-84]

Gary Lewis wrote

It might fit the passenger's side given the shape.  But I don't think it would the driver's side as it is flat.

Ok Gary, I got it.  They are different style…

There is the « folded up » style:



And the « flat » style:


And they all use a retainer clip.

Didn’t find any NOS or used on the web, so a custom made knob is probably a good solution.