I've removed the ammeter from the instrument cluster because the needle is offset towards "D". I was hoping to find an adjustment to re-zero the meter but no joy. does anyone know if these meters can be adjusted or do I just to replace the meter?
Thx.
82F150I6
1982 F150 4x4 Styleside, Dana 44 front axle, New Process 208 transfer case, 4 spd manual xmission, 4.9L engine. 2nd owner, purchased in 1986. Best damned truck, ever! |
Administrator
|
The meters can be calibrated, but they don't read much in any case.
Metrology would charge you more than a new one. They can be converted to a Voltmeter by Rocketman Innovations. That is a prerequisite, if swapping out the feeble alternator for a 3G or one-wire. There are a couple of write ups here on the forum.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by 82F150I6
<quote author="82F150I6">
does anyone know if these meters can be adjusted or do I just to replace the meter? Thx. Currently on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Battery+gausge+Ford+F150+1984&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=Ammeter+Ford+F150+1984 |
Administrator
|
For $45 with a lifetime warranty, I think I'd go with Bob's voltmeter...
https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all Ask Gary. They are beautiful!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
On the 3G....if you don't get it converted, it just doesn't work right? It won't cause any damage if you leave it in?
1986 F-150 SC 2wd 4spd 302EFI Base Model all OEM motor/trans/emissions equipment.
|
Administrator
|
If you try to force 130A through something rated for 65 it's going to have problems.
You can remove the shunt wire and replace it with something suitable (like 8Ga.) but then the ammeter won't read at all, so what's the point?
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by 82F150I6
Thanks all for the quick replies.
I know these ammeters don't show a heck of a lot but I figured while I had the instrument cluster apart I'd see if I could adjust the offset. I have a spare so I'll be swapping meters. I had not considered a 3G alternator upgrade but I'll have to look into it. the stock alternator has been working OK for the past 38 years so a new alternator hasn't been high on my list of Things To Do. Thanks again.
82F150I6
1982 F150 4x4 Styleside, Dana 44 front axle, New Process 208 transfer case, 4 spd manual xmission, 4.9L engine. 2nd owner, purchased in 1986. Best damned truck, ever! |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
I was planning on moving the charge connection directly to the battery. I just hadn't looked at the wiring diagram yet to see how it was originally connected. I move the charge cable for now and when time allows, get the voltmeter converted and swapped in. I never really pay much attention to it anyway...... Thanks!
1986 F-150 SC 2wd 4spd 302EFI Base Model all OEM motor/trans/emissions equipment.
|
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Second that. He does great work.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by 82F150I6
The 3G conversion is more of a mandatory for those of us with the 2G (firestarter)
Batteries, charge plugs and alternators add up fast, once they start smoking. If 60A is enough for you, then it's enough.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Well. Y'all are good at spending my money. I pulled the ammeter off the new cluster I got and paid for the conversion. Hoping to get it shipped out tomorrow.
1986 F-150 SC 2wd 4spd 302EFI Base Model all OEM motor/trans/emissions equipment.
|
Administrator
|
Yep, ain't it fun!
But, you do know that you'll need to change some wiring to make the voltmeter work. Right? It is explained on the Ammeter And Voltmeter tab here: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Remove from cluster & look on back to see if there is adjustment like fuel gauge has in back of fuel gauge there are 2 holes if you llok close you can see a wheel inside of the hole, you can use a small pocket phillips screw driver to turn wheel to change position of needle, i just did this to my gas gauge because when you filled it gauge went 1/4in above full only problem with that at 1/4 tank you were out found that out the hard way. AMP GAUGE may have the same adj on the back.
|
In reply to this post by 82F150I6
Just a follow up.
I had planned to replace the ammeter with one from a spare instrument cluster I already owned, but the donor meter plastic bracket (holds the screw terminals) literally disintegrated before my eyes. I followed BARRYS83F100's suggestion and looked for an adjustment hole on the rear of the meter. The meter does have a tiny hole but I don't know if there is an adjustment in there as I wasn't successful in moving the needle. So I figured what the heck and tried bending the needle a bit. I used my right index finger to push against the bottom of the needle and my left index finger to push against the tip of the needle. It came out OK and as others noted, it's not like this meter is all that accurate anyway.
82F150I6
1982 F150 4x4 Styleside, Dana 44 front axle, New Process 208 transfer case, 4 spd manual xmission, 4.9L engine. 2nd owner, purchased in 1986. Best damned truck, ever! |
Administrator
|
Well done! I may try that 'cause I have an ammeter that sets off center with nothing flowing.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Kind of on topic so thought I’d post here instead of a new thread. Looking at the page below, if I get the female side if connector 610 and wire it to a relay with a switched power source, I can leave the printed circuit board alone and my converted ammeter should work as a voltmeter. Any thoughts? Planning a 5 amp fuse.
1986 F-150 SC 2wd 4spd 302EFI Base Model all OEM motor/trans/emissions equipment.
|
Administrator
|
Yep, check this out:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1339746-how-to-swap-amp-meter-to-volt-meter.html No real need for a relay though and a 1 amp fuse will suffice - the voltmeter isn't any real load. I am using the LG/R trigger wire that is also in c610.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
Administrator
|
Or you could use the wiring diagram from our own page: Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion. See the Ammeter & Voltmeter tab.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
I had looked at that one, just forgot about it. Now the fun part....figuring what kind of connector that is....
1986 F-150 SC 2wd 4spd 302EFI Base Model all OEM motor/trans/emissions equipment.
|
Administrator
|
The EVTM holds lots of clues on the connectors. This page is toward the end of the Charge & Power Distribution section that the previous one came out of:
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Edit this page |