Alternator shim

[FrazerJames]

Oh for real??? I won’t be using that plug anyway. I was planning just to splice the new painless wiring into the corresponding wires and leave the old wires as they are. So I guess removing the Ammeter from the circuitry is as easy as that in this situation?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Let's have a look at the actual (1985) EVTM pages, before Gary made changes.
(There is no '83 on this site, and '84 is only a placeholder)

Look at figure 3 here. It shows the starter relay, voltage regulator, the wires associated with them, and the ground location.



Now let's look at the wiring page that Gary showed the modified version of, above.



Here we can identify the wires going into C610.

You have main power (wire 37, yellow) key on power (904, lt grn/red) and both sides of the ammeter.
With this plug disconnected you can remove the voltage regulator, the radio noise suppressor, the shunt wire and the fusible link (J) from the truck.

You then need to connect yellow (37) to the fused side of the new power cable and lt grn/red (904) to the 3G's regulator plug, in order to 'turn on' the alternator when the key is in the run position.

Is that clear to you, or do I need to point out all the places where that one connector (610) appears on the page?

[FrazerJames]

No, that’s amazing. Exactly what I needed! Thanks!!!!!

[ArdWrknTrk]

But note connector 233....
This is where I said you need to connect that choke wire to the splice you make between the stator wire coming from the regulator plug and the small grey stator connector that goes into the rear of the alternator.

If your jumping onto fuel injection I think you can ignore that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Cool!

I'm glad you have a better grasp of what you're seeing in your truck.
Sometimes, it really is that easy.  

[FrazerJames]

So, Installing the alternator today and (thanks to all of you) I’ve got the wiring down. Now, my only issue is that I think the shim I had to use is a bit thick so the belt is offset a bit. I know that there’s some tolerance there so I’m not too concerned. However, I’m coming across the issue where I have over an inch between my existing adjuster bracket arm and the alternator itself.

Also, this alternator is bigger than the one installed prior. I was under the impression that this one from Rockauto would be the right size fit (I don’t recall where I found this info - maybe Ford-Truck?). Anyway, the case is larger and it’s not a bolt right in solution.

I think the obvious move here is to bring down the adjuster bracket so it meets up with the alternators adjuster bolt, and then maybe bend it to meet the alternator? Is there a better solution? Or an order-able adjuster bracket for conversions? The great part is it fits the existing pivot bracket perfectly.

[Rusty_S85]

the alternator ear is wider on the 3G where it bolts to the tensioner you have two options to do here.  First option is remove the tensioner arm and flatten it out so it fits then youll have to use a metric bolt or retap it.  Second option is the option I think I am going to do, which is use a hacksaw and cut the ear down to the right thickness to fit the bracket without flattening.  Im going to do that as well as use my tap to tap the threads in the ear to be SAE so I can reuse my OE bolt.

[FrazerJames]

I have the opposite problem. I have TOO much space between my tensioner bracket and the ear. Like 1.5 inches or so? I’ll need to measure, but there’s definitely space.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The tensioner swivels, doesn't it?
Or does your 300 have a solid bracket?

I have found that the adjuster arms have too much offset, because the alternator ear is a different thickness on a 3G.
But like Rusty said, just hammer it a little flatter.
(I think this is all addressed in the tutorial)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Can you post a pic?

[Rusty_S85]

Id be interested in seeing a pic also.  Only changes Ive seen having to be made is hammering the tensioner bracket flat as the ear is thicker on the alternator but havent heard anyone talk about the tensioner bracket being too far away from the alternator.

[FuzzFace2]

Man between the shunt and bypassing it and finding the right "bolt in" ALT is why I would think of staying with the 1G ALT I have if it ever gives out.

I know some place I do have a list of the parts needed to do this swap on my truck just don't remember where it is right now.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

I usually just tap the 8x1.25 ear to 3/8-16 and use the old bolt.

[Rusty_S85]

Ive made that list about 8 times now I keep losing them.  Finally I made the last list and typed it out as a word document and saved it on my external hard drive in the folder for my truck.

[FrazerJames]

False alarm. It fits perfect. Bolts right on :)

I think I had it situated a little wonky when I was testing the belt attachment. I do think a long belt will do me well for more wrap.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Whew!  

I'm really glad it was just a false alarm!