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This post was updated on .
Through no small effort on your part.
Yes, I'm very grateful that we're respectful, and no Pirate4X4.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by Andrew1983F100
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-Ford-D7EE-9E607-AA-Air-Cleaner-Temperature-Sensor/182169675274?epid=1173634372&hash=item2a6a28a60a:g:im8AAOSwOVpXXtwa
Price has increased by $5...
Rob
Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires. Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
I'm sure the piece is all metal Jim. If you knew what you were doing, I guess you could adjust them. Or even if you didn't, I suppose you could play around with one using a vacuum gauge.
Anyway, it appears I won't need to. The new sensor worked fine as far as I could tell. Pulling my truck out of the garage yesterday(temps below 40F), the 'hot air flap' was wide open. Even after a 100 mile drive with temps around 50F the flap was not fully closed when we returned. So I would call the new sensor a success. I hooked up a new 'stove pipe' and have it temporarily placed to 'catch' air from the exhaust manifold. Haven't tested it yet, but I hope to still devise a more permanent and less 'backyard mechanic' solution. I had planned to clamp the pipe to the base of the front manifold, but the foil is so weak, it keeps tearing...
Rob
Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires. Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup |
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I'll bet that works, Rob. It looks like success to me. Well done!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Thank you very much !
1983 F100 302 2WD Base Model Short Bed
Wimbledon White |
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Jim, the ones I was working on were metal, like the ones pictured, the tube coming out of the portion that sits inside the air filter is the one I would adjust. The Chrysler ones seemed to be the most problematic, and lack of heated air contributed to the classic Chrysler sound of the era, the "Highland Park Hummingbird" followed by a "boom" as it backfired into the air cleaner followed the "roar" as (generally) 383 2 barrel engine started.
I could walk out of our local 2 story shopping mall and hear one almost every time.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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Yes, I know that sound all too well. The distinctive sound of the gear-reduction starter singing away, and then the boom - which was particularly loud on my Bee as it had the "unsilenced" air cleaner. But the @#$%^&* Holley 4bbl carbs would do it as well, and you could kiss the power valve goodbye.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Yes, that is true, the 383 2 barrel engines had Stromberg WWC carbs or Carter BBD 1 1/2" models. The air cleaner stud was screwed into the bowl cover at the front edge of the choke opening and there was no screw near it attaching it to the float bowl casting. The air cleaner stud was simply a length of 1/4" rod threaded on both ends with no physical stop like GM used. As a result the old underhood service, check oil, look at belts etc. was usually finished with a twist of the wing nut. After a while between being over tightened and the high underhood temperatures, the Zinc alloy casting would warp.
The warped casting (a) no longer sealed the back edge of the float bowl and (b) could jam the choke blade. It also allowed fuel pull over on a cold start flooding the engine. The resulting backfire from holding the throttle wide open could and sometimes did start a fire inside the air cleaner. Chrysler's end solution, (a) replace the Strombergs with Carters and install a 3/8" bar across the top of the air horn held down with longer screws and having the air cleaner stud welded to it. Air horns were to be replaced if warped. I flattened a number of them during rebuilds and then installed the recall brace. On Strombergs, after straightening the air horn, I would use 3 1/4-20 nuts and one flat washer. One nut and the washer at the bottom of the stud, the other two nuts used as a stop so the air filter was snug when the lid contacted them. You could tighten the wing nut until your fingers hurt and not damage the carburetor.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
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In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
I think the clicky thermal sensors are all metal, with a colored dot.
I know I'm now looking for one of the green plastic delay/check valves for the side air scoop on my filter housing. That nipple broke off and I melted a bit of brass tubing in its stead. What else can you do????
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
I've always guessed him to be a '48 or '49 Gary myself. |
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Actually, I'm a '47 Gary fellow.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Just a young fellow then.
God Bless
Whisler Frankenstein: 1989 F250 4X4, C-6, Hurst Pro-Matic 2 shifter, carbed '84 351W, Edelbrock manifold, Edlbrock AVS, DS2 ignition, 3G alternator, JBA shorty headers, no cats, dual exhaust with H pipe. |
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Not feeling all that young. But thanks.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
.... So you DO go back to the 40's!
More motivation and energy than most born in this millennium.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Yes, I do go back to the 40's - both in age awa documentation.
But, I'm not sure about the motivation and energy. At least the latter seems to be waning. Still, I'm having FUN!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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